Discussion
There are 3 main companies that do the stainless steel sports exhausts; Rimmer, SS, Janspeed. I have a Rimmer one on my V8 which has a very nice growl. When matched to a 4 Barrel Weber the sound with your right foot planted to the floor is superb, as is the performance. You can actually see the petrol gauge moving down at these times.
I suspect the other systems are similar. They are all evidentally a pig to fit. My local Land Rover Independent fitted mine amidst much swearing and cursing and that's with plenty of experience and a hydraulic lift. Not for the home mechanic methinks.
I suspect the other systems are similar. They are all evidentally a pig to fit. My local Land Rover Independent fitted mine amidst much swearing and cursing and that's with plenty of experience and a hydraulic lift. Not for the home mechanic methinks.
Sorry, can't tell you what nomenclature my carb has. I looked up the invoice and it just says "Supply & fit Weber kit to V8 Landrover". It came with an Eddlebrook manifold and a huge, dustbin lid sized chrome air filter which looks lovely. Some weeks after I had a "heat spacer" fitted. Evidently a common problem with the Weber is fuel evaporating due to heat. This manifests itself by a hesitation when coming off overrun and back on the throttle. It made a bit of difference but it still does it. I just adapt my driving to compensate.
Fuel consumption went down to about 11mpg (was 16mpg) but that could be because I use the right foot more these days
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Power went up significantly. When it first went in it was with the original 3.5 engine. That engine died from a combination of head gasket failure and black death and in went a 3.9 comp engine. They had quite a few problems jetting with the new engine but got it right eventually.
I then developed a problem when during cold weather after a couple of miles the engine would just cut out or run really badly with no power. A couple of minutes later it would start and run fine. I thought this was carb icing but haveing talked with RPi that was discounted in favour of a likely knackered ignition system. On went an RPi amplifier, Magnecor leads, new cap & rotor arm and it is now running better than ever and no more cutting out when cold. I think it just needs a timing tweak (as recommended by RPi) and it will be perfect. I'm certainly using less throttle for the same speed now.
If I had my time over again I would probably have gone the EFi route as it's probably easier to set up and maintain and would likely suffer less problems. It was suggested when the 3.9 went in but having spent £700 on the Weber kit I decided against.
Anyone wanna buy a 4 Barrel Weber Kit that's only done about 200 miles
Fuel consumption went down to about 11mpg (was 16mpg) but that could be because I use the right foot more these days
. Power went up significantly. When it first went in it was with the original 3.5 engine. That engine died from a combination of head gasket failure and black death and in went a 3.9 comp engine. They had quite a few problems jetting with the new engine but got it right eventually.
I then developed a problem when during cold weather after a couple of miles the engine would just cut out or run really badly with no power. A couple of minutes later it would start and run fine. I thought this was carb icing but haveing talked with RPi that was discounted in favour of a likely knackered ignition system. On went an RPi amplifier, Magnecor leads, new cap & rotor arm and it is now running better than ever and no more cutting out when cold. I think it just needs a timing tweak (as recommended by RPi) and it will be perfect. I'm certainly using less throttle for the same speed now.
If I had my time over again I would probably have gone the EFi route as it's probably easier to set up and maintain and would likely suffer less problems. It was suggested when the 3.9 went in but having spent £700 on the Weber kit I decided against.
Anyone wanna buy a 4 Barrel Weber Kit that's only done about 200 miles
I had a 4 barrel weber on my 3.9. There's a little arm that pumps fuel in (accelerator pump) you can adjust it by moving the arm. Try one of the other settings.
The carbs tend to run rich on part/mid throttle and even richer on WOT (not a bad thing) - try going down one stage leaner on low/mid range.
Good write up on tuning them:
www.telusplanet.net/public/gilesij/Volvord/edelbrock_1.htm
The carbs tend to run rich on part/mid throttle and even richer on WOT (not a bad thing) - try going down one stage leaner on low/mid range.
Good write up on tuning them:
www.telusplanet.net/public/gilesij/Volvord/edelbrock_1.htm
Why are you fitting a four-barrel carb to a Rover V8? SU's are easy to set up and will give better performance (both economy and power). A 3.9 or 3.5 Rover is too small a displacement engine to allow the majority of four-barrel carburetters to function properly.
Stick with SU HIF 6 or HIF 44 carburetters, fit BDR needles, use a K&N filter in the original airbox, fit 3.9EFI exhaust system (gives stacks of torque) and 2 1/4 free-flow silencers.
My Bowler 100 runs this set up and will run 0 to 60 in around six to seven seconds (limited by aggressive 32" off-road tyres and a slow shifting LT94 four-speed gearbox).
Matt
Stick with SU HIF 6 or HIF 44 carburetters, fit BDR needles, use a K&N filter in the original airbox, fit 3.9EFI exhaust system (gives stacks of torque) and 2 1/4 free-flow silencers.
My Bowler 100 runs this set up and will run 0 to 60 in around six to seven seconds (limited by aggressive 32" off-road tyres and a slow shifting LT94 four-speed gearbox).
Matt
[quote=WLAcopilote]
Stick with SU HIF 6 or HIF 44 carburetters, fit BDR needles, use a K&N filter in the original airbox, fit 3.9EFI exhaust system (gives stacks of torque) and 2 1/4 free-flow silencers.
Matt[/WLAcopilote]
Yes the SU's are suprisingly effective, but the weber 500 works well too on a 3.9 (ive had both) the primary barrels are smaller than the secondaries so low/mid throttle response is crisp, the secondaries will only open fully open with suffient air flow, so flooring it a low engine revs wont bog the engine down.
The SU's cope better with extreeme angles, and dont cough and splutter when you go over hard bumps. (unlike the weber)
Stick with SU HIF 6 or HIF 44 carburetters, fit BDR needles, use a K&N filter in the original airbox, fit 3.9EFI exhaust system (gives stacks of torque) and 2 1/4 free-flow silencers.
Matt[/WLAcopilote]
Yes the SU's are suprisingly effective, but the weber 500 works well too on a 3.9 (ive had both) the primary barrels are smaller than the secondaries so low/mid throttle response is crisp, the secondaries will only open fully open with suffient air flow, so flooring it a low engine revs wont bog the engine down.
The SU's cope better with extreeme angles, and dont cough and splutter when you go over hard bumps. (unlike the weber)
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