Range Rover classic
Discussion
I recently bought a 1994 3.9 vogue se soft dash as a project to
restore to its former glory.
Exterior body is pretty good as is the inside trim with hardly a mark
on the grey leather, the boot floor and front foot wells have seen better
days and will be cut out and replaced.
It's on air suspension which i'm going to replace with coils and shocks and was hoping for some advice on what to fit.
I want to keep it at its normal ride height and possibly stiffen it up a bit but not stupidly hard.
I was thinking of fitting a Bilstein kit but the spring rates look very hard to me compared to stock if i have the numbers right.
Stock springs on a classic are 133 inch lbs front and 150 inch lbs rear. Is this correct ?
The Bilsteins are 195 front and 295 rear
Cosmetically i'm looking for a new headling as thats sagging at the rear so if anyone knows of good places to fix this i'd appreciate the info.
Thanks
Dunk
restore to its former glory.
Exterior body is pretty good as is the inside trim with hardly a mark
on the grey leather, the boot floor and front foot wells have seen better
days and will be cut out and replaced.
It's on air suspension which i'm going to replace with coils and shocks and was hoping for some advice on what to fit.
I want to keep it at its normal ride height and possibly stiffen it up a bit but not stupidly hard.
I was thinking of fitting a Bilstein kit but the spring rates look very hard to me compared to stock if i have the numbers right.
Stock springs on a classic are 133 inch lbs front and 150 inch lbs rear. Is this correct ?
The Bilsteins are 195 front and 295 rear
Cosmetically i'm looking for a new headling as thats sagging at the rear so if anyone knows of good places to fix this i'd appreciate the info.
Thanks
Dunk
Edited by dunk7 on Sunday 31st August 08:56
task said:
Looks very nice 
Personally I would keep the air, it's a nice ride when working properly. What's the intended use of the vehicle?
Thanks, the picture does make it look a lot better than it really Personally I would keep the air, it's a nice ride when working properly. What's the intended use of the vehicle?
is to be honest, the sides are pretty straight but the paint is very flat
and will need a lot of mopping, lower tailgate and bonnet have surface corrosion and will need painting.
It's only going to be on road really, my off roading days are done and i just bought this to be a little different, i was looking at 58 plate TDV8's but got put off by the depreciation and potential running costs
The only thing is this is all nearly 20 yrs old and the cost for new
genuine parts is silly hence i think a nice set of coils and
shocks is the way to go.
They worked fine on previous Range Rovers i've had and the Bilstein kit
is around 400 all in but i'm concerned about the high spring rates
Airbags front pair 422 + vat Rear pair 414 + vat Compressor 307 + vat
which is getting on for 1400 !
genuine parts is silly hence i think a nice set of coils and
shocks is the way to go.
They worked fine on previous Range Rovers i've had and the Bilstein kit
is around 400 all in but i'm concerned about the high spring rates
Airbags front pair 422 + vat Rear pair 414 + vat Compressor 307 + vat
which is getting on for 1400 !
Edited by dunk7 on Tuesday 8th October 10:14
plasticpig said:
For slightly stiffer suspension you could fit RR TDI springs on the front which are 150 lb/inch and heavy duty "police spec" 200 lb/in on the rear (IIRC these are progressive springs). I have been researching springs for mine although I am going the lift kit route.
I'm also thinking of stiffer roll bars but none i've found list how much stiffer they are compared to stock.
According to MM 4x4 the Police fronts are 150 and the rears are 175
Edited by dunk7 on Tuesday 8th October 10:33
dunk7 said:
The only thing is this is all nearly 20 yrs old and the cost for new
genuine parts is silly hence i think a nice set of coils and
shocks is the way to go.
They worked fine on previous Range Rovers i've had and the Bilstein kit
is around 400 all in but i'm concerned about the high spring rates
Airbags front pair 422 + vat Rear pair 414 + vat Compressor 307 + vat
which is getting on for 1400 !
A classic shouldn't have front air suspension, only rear. Air front was introduced until the p38a's.genuine parts is silly hence i think a nice set of coils and
shocks is the way to go.
They worked fine on previous Range Rovers i've had and the Bilstein kit
is around 400 all in but i'm concerned about the high spring rates
Airbags front pair 422 + vat Rear pair 414 + vat Compressor 307 + vat
which is getting on for 1400 !
Edited by dunk7 on Tuesday 8th October 10:14
What is actually wrong with the air suspension?
It seems complex, but isn't really.
These guys make replacement rears:
https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LAND_ROVER_y...
Even importing them is a lot cheaper than the prices you've quoted. But I'm sure you can get bits in the UK too.
300bhp/ton said:
A classic shouldn't have front air suspension, only rear. Air front was introduced until the p38a's.
What is actually wrong with the air suspension?
It seems complex, but isn't really.
These guys make replacement rears:
https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LAND_ROVER_y...
Even importing them is a lot cheaper than the prices you've quoted. But I'm sure you can get bits in the UK too.
You are talking utter bWhat is actually wrong with the air suspension?
It seems complex, but isn't really.
These guys make replacement rears:
https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LAND_ROVER_y...
Even importing them is a lot cheaper than the prices you've quoted. But I'm sure you can get bits in the UK too.
ks. An air sprung RRC is air sprung all round. Disco 2's had rear air suspension only. My mistake. I was thinking of the rear wheel TCS on the available on the LSE. So I stand corrected.
In that case, would Arnott Gen III springs for the p38 work on the RRC?
A little pricey, but a good long term solution. Considering they actually stiffen the ride when lowered and soften it when raised, unlike the LR design that is the other way round.
In that case, would Arnott Gen III springs for the p38 work on the RRC?
A little pricey, but a good long term solution. Considering they actually stiffen the ride when lowered and soften it when raised, unlike the LR design that is the other way round.
I know of a few classics fitted with the GEN3 Arnot springs.
I've got standard height heavy duty springs on my Disco 1, this made a nice improvement to the standard springs and probably raised the ride height slightly with no weight in it.
The CSK is on -1" stiffer springs coupled with Bilstein dampers, this handles very well for a brick on wheels but the ride height is compromised slightly, fine for me as I don't plan to off-road it other than the odd dirt track. It also tows exceptionally well with the stiffer springs.
Air suspension gives a lovely on road feel, and although you say you won't use it off road I bet you'll use it in the snow where the ability to jack the ride height up is of use. The self-leveleling is also useful if you tow or put heavy weight in the back. If you're converting to coils and not going for heavy duty springs and do plan to carry loads or two then look into fitting a self leveling unit off a pre-air classic.
What does the kit consist of?
I've got standard height heavy duty springs on my Disco 1, this made a nice improvement to the standard springs and probably raised the ride height slightly with no weight in it.
The CSK is on -1" stiffer springs coupled with Bilstein dampers, this handles very well for a brick on wheels but the ride height is compromised slightly, fine for me as I don't plan to off-road it other than the odd dirt track. It also tows exceptionally well with the stiffer springs.
Air suspension gives a lovely on road feel, and although you say you won't use it off road I bet you'll use it in the snow where the ability to jack the ride height up is of use. The self-leveleling is also useful if you tow or put heavy weight in the back. If you're converting to coils and not going for heavy duty springs and do plan to carry loads or two then look into fitting a self leveling unit off a pre-air classic.
What does the kit consist of?
Keep it air and get the parts from here....
I recently replaced just the rubber bags & the compressor on my air suspension.... @£30 a pop..
All in fitted was less than £500
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/suspension-suspension-...
I recently replaced just the rubber bags & the compressor on my air suspension.... @£30 a pop..
All in fitted was less than £500
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/suspension-suspension-...
We've got the air suspension working so i'll wait till
ive driven it to see if i'm going to keep it or not.
The Bilstein kit is on www.rimmerbros.co.uk/item--I-GRID009347 it's too much money in my opinion along with too high a spring rate.
I can get uprated shocks and springs for a lot less and with much
more sensible rates.
ive driven it to see if i'm going to keep it or not.
The Bilstein kit is on www.rimmerbros.co.uk/item--I-GRID009347 it's too much money in my opinion along with too high a spring rate.
I can get uprated shocks and springs for a lot less and with much
more sensible rates.
Edited by dunk7 on Thursday 10th October 16:14
Re. the headlining, there are a couple of routes to investigate. The first - and cheaper by some way - is to remove it from the car, scrape off the old headlining and foam backing underneath, and to recover it yourself. This requires much patience and a steady hand (for trimming edges / speaker surrounds etc). IIRC Woolies, the trim suppliers, sell a headlining material in a similar colour and texture to the original, but I've not bought any myself. The other avenue I'd explore is getting Nationwide Trim in Redditch to re-cover the headlining for you. That is what I did, and I'm pleased with the results. They do lots of classic Range Rovers, as well as Saab 900s (they have a similar problem with sagging headlining), and retrims of classic cars generally. There were a couple of '80s Merc SLs in when I went. The disadvantage there is the price (~£350) but the advantage is getting a tidy job done, and not breaking the backing board getting it in and out. They do so many that they have got the knack of not breaking stuff while removing and refitting.
ETA
I see you have an LSE; if you go down the DIY route, be VERY careful with the headlining board - don't break it, because replacements are really hard to come by.
ETA
I see you have an LSE; if you go down the DIY route, be VERY careful with the headlining board - don't break it, because replacements are really hard to come by.
The Nationwide Trim ones are very good. They're grp backed. Got one in my own RRC. Self fitted & providing you take care & keep your hands clean - or preferably wear protective gloves - is not overly difficult.
if you want to recover your own, there's a very good 'how to' here:
http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=8876...
if you want to recover your own, there's a very good 'how to' here:
http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=8876...
I found Nationwide trim and they will get the job to replace
the headlining, they're only 10 miles away.
Had it on the ramp to see how bad it is, the chassis is good and only
has light surface rust on it.
Two outriggers need some work, drivers side inner and outer sills
need replacing, boot floor, front inner wings and front foot wells
but all in all not too bad.
Swivel housings are leaking so they will get stripped and rebuilt or
replaced
We replaced the rotten fuel line and then checked the engine, we did a compression test which shows the motor is good to go so fitted new plugs, coolant, oil & filters.
Heater works a treat and aircon is ice cold
the headlining, they're only 10 miles away.
Had it on the ramp to see how bad it is, the chassis is good and only
has light surface rust on it.
Two outriggers need some work, drivers side inner and outer sills
need replacing, boot floor, front inner wings and front foot wells
but all in all not too bad.
Swivel housings are leaking so they will get stripped and rebuilt or
replaced
We replaced the rotten fuel line and then checked the engine, we did a compression test which shows the motor is good to go so fitted new plugs, coolant, oil & filters.
Heater works a treat and aircon is ice cold
Edited by dunk7 on Thursday 31st October 10:43
Edited by dunk7 on Thursday 31st October 10:56
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