Buying A Classic Range Rover
Discussion
I want to buy an LPG converted classic Range Rover and use it as a daily driver. Budget is £3 to £4K which I thought would be adequate. There seems to be very little out there at that money though. Plenty of stuff at sub £2k but they seem to need quite a lot of attention with major rust issues. I don't mind a bit of surface rust and slightly cosmetically challenged; bur I would like one which has an intact boot floor and doesn't require a new tailgate and inner wings. Some really nice mint ones at £5 - £6k but I am not looking for a mint one as I will be taking it off road.
I am starting to think that there is no middle ground and I would be better off buying a Jeep.
I am starting to think that there is no middle ground and I would be better off buying a Jeep.
The newest will be around 17 years old and the later Classics - from around 1989 - rot even worse than the earlier ones. You've identified the areas that are usually bad!
As you say, there are good ones about but they ask for premium prices.
Whilst you may find one that fits the bill, you're going to be looking at a lot of lemons.
Most panels are readily available from sources such as http://www.yrmlandrover.com/ and http://www.froggatts.co.uk/page10.html & they're not that difficult to do once you've got the outer panels off but if you can't DIY then it could be expensive.
As you say, there are good ones about but they ask for premium prices.
Whilst you may find one that fits the bill, you're going to be looking at a lot of lemons.
Most panels are readily available from sources such as http://www.yrmlandrover.com/ and http://www.froggatts.co.uk/page10.html & they're not that difficult to do once you've got the outer panels off but if you can't DIY then it could be expensive.
Hi there,
I've just bought a 91 RRC Vogue SE. You're right, there is a lot of rubbish out there. I spent considerably less than you but have no LPG (not bothered as won't use it much) and have some rust issues. Mine has been resprayed a few years ago and is very tidy but not mint and is in superb condition inside. I went into the ownership eyes open having owned them before and am prepared for some work, which includes the following:
Drivers footwell
N/s inner wing (not urgent)
Boot floor ( needs replacing)
Bth rear seat belts mounts will most likely need re-doing for the MOT.
Sounds bad but my local LR specialist reckons most can be patched. I have seen his work and its very good. Proably about £250 plus panels from YRM I will then have a very smart looking Plymouth Blue RR which i know will be solid underneath for about £2000
Why am i telling you this? Because it might be worth looking at some of the slightly rougher ones before dismissing but only if you can weld or know a good guy locally?
Oh, and check the viscous coupling if its a post 89. Not that easy to test and will cost you a good £400 (from experience!)
Its a great old bus though and one which I think will go up in value. I have noticed the off road modified ones tend to go for less money the more these get collectable. Have you thought about a Discovery? Similar rust issues but more choice in your budget and if its an off roader you want more than to bowl around in a lovely old RR, it might be worth a look?
I've just bought a 91 RRC Vogue SE. You're right, there is a lot of rubbish out there. I spent considerably less than you but have no LPG (not bothered as won't use it much) and have some rust issues. Mine has been resprayed a few years ago and is very tidy but not mint and is in superb condition inside. I went into the ownership eyes open having owned them before and am prepared for some work, which includes the following:
Drivers footwell
N/s inner wing (not urgent)
Boot floor ( needs replacing)
Bth rear seat belts mounts will most likely need re-doing for the MOT.
Sounds bad but my local LR specialist reckons most can be patched. I have seen his work and its very good. Proably about £250 plus panels from YRM I will then have a very smart looking Plymouth Blue RR which i know will be solid underneath for about £2000
Why am i telling you this? Because it might be worth looking at some of the slightly rougher ones before dismissing but only if you can weld or know a good guy locally?
Oh, and check the viscous coupling if its a post 89. Not that easy to test and will cost you a good £400 (from experience!)
Its a great old bus though and one which I think will go up in value. I have noticed the off road modified ones tend to go for less money the more these get collectable. Have you thought about a Discovery? Similar rust issues but more choice in your budget and if its an off roader you want more than to bowl around in a lovely old RR, it might be worth a look?
Thanks for the replies. I have owned a classic RR before and always regretted getting rid of it. Can do some DIY job myself but not welding. I had a P38 which I got rid of last year as it was becoming a nightmare to maintain. A mate of mine has lots of spares for the RR classic so I have a source for cheap parts.
I think I will just have to be patient and wait for the right one to turn up.
I think I will just have to be patient and wait for the right one to turn up.
I have a 1991 J reg 3.9 vogue that will be selling soon, I just need to get round to sorting an Mot out. It's a none SE so no electric seats, AC or air suspension to worry about, and a '91 model with the revised anti roll suspension, it's also fitted with a LPG system. Only 4 local owners from new with 80,000 miles with full biblical service history from new. Very original car still with nice touches such as original supplying dealer number plates and window stickers.
Send me a PM if your interested.
Send me a PM if your interested.
I used to have a Classic. The only things that went wrong were a steering damper (steering wobbles over bumps) and the floor on the driver's side needed some welding. They are great cars and I wish I'd kept hold of it as prices are on the up. I've got a P38 now and I miss the simplicity of the Classic as P38s ALWAYS need something doing them.
JNR77 said:
I have a 1991 J reg 3.9 vogue that will be selling soon, I just need to get round to sorting an Mot out. It's a none SE so no electric seats, AC or air suspension to worry about, and a '91 model with the revised anti roll suspension, it's also fitted with a LPG system. Only 4 local owners from new with 80,000 miles with full biblical service history from new. Very original car still with nice touches such as original supplying dealer number plates and window stickers.
Send me a PM if your interested.
Sent you a PM.Send me a PM if your interested.
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I'm thinking of going along the same lines as the OP and want a Classic RR to use everyday. I have experience of classic motors, after having owned a RR Silver Shadow for 11 years and a '64 Bentley S3 for 10 years, but my garage is now full, so a Range Rover will live outside.
My take on them is that they rot and the electrics are problematic. Re rotting, I would take to someone like 'before'n'after' for a proper wax treatment (better than I could attempt) and re the electrics, with my other classics, the more I use them, the more reliable they are, but 90s electrics are new to me. So my question is, will usage help reliability of the electrics, or is it the case that they're just old and will need constant work?
thanks
AP
My take on them is that they rot and the electrics are problematic. Re rotting, I would take to someone like 'before'n'after' for a proper wax treatment (better than I could attempt) and re the electrics, with my other classics, the more I use them, the more reliable they are, but 90s electrics are new to me. So my question is, will usage help reliability of the electrics, or is it the case that they're just old and will need constant work?
thanks
AP
In the main, the electrics on mine (1986 3.5EFi on LPG)have been relatively trouble free. Its lived outside since I bought it in 1994. Over the past few years I've used it less & it doesn't appear to have affected the reliability. I have fitted a battery isolator though, so no battery drain issues, but I do have to reset the radio!
Main issue being the dip/main column switch burning out - solved by adapting to use relays to switch the current instead of it all going through the switch. This is a well known issue on my era of RR - and any other car that uses that type of switch. Different switch on the later ones.
This is the switch & the 'how to' I used:
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/dip.htm#1
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lights10.htm
Things like the indicator wing repeaters rusting away & the odd exposed connector succumbing to corrosion - it is a 28 year old car after all - are easily fixed.
The Classic, whilst being much worse on corrosion than the P38, doesn't have the same electrical issues as the P38.
Air suspension is often changed for springs but IMO its a mistake as you lose the ride quality & its not THAT difficult to maintain & there's plenty of good 'how to's on the net.
Main issue being the dip/main column switch burning out - solved by adapting to use relays to switch the current instead of it all going through the switch. This is a well known issue on my era of RR - and any other car that uses that type of switch. Different switch on the later ones.
This is the switch & the 'how to' I used:
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/dip.htm#1
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lights10.htm
Things like the indicator wing repeaters rusting away & the odd exposed connector succumbing to corrosion - it is a 28 year old car after all - are easily fixed.
The Classic, whilst being much worse on corrosion than the P38, doesn't have the same electrical issues as the P38.
Air suspension is often changed for springs but IMO its a mistake as you lose the ride quality & its not THAT difficult to maintain & there's plenty of good 'how to's on the net.
Edited by paintman on Wednesday 5th November 10:59
ADP68 said:
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I'm thinking of going along the same lines as the OP and want a Classic RR to use everyday. I have experience of classic motors, after having owned a RR Silver Shadow for 11 years and a '64 Bentley S3 for 10 years, but my garage is now full, so a Range Rover will live outside.
My take on them is that they rot and the electrics are problematic. Re rotting, I would take to someone like 'before'n'after' for a proper wax treatment (better than I could attempt) and re the electrics, with my other classics, the more I use them, the more reliable they are, but 90s electrics are new to me. So my question is, will usage help reliability of the electrics, or is it the case that they're just old and will need constant work?
thanks
AP
Hmm. I am the OP. I did buy one but don't currently use it as a daily driver. Mine lives outside all the time and has been wax treated. There is obviously a lot of difference in electrics between and early 80's carburettor model and a end of production soft dash model. Mines a soft dash with standard spring set up (from the factory) and manual seats which means there are less electrical issues to worry about than one with these options fitted but it's still far more complex than carbed one. Main electrical gremlins I have had are down to relays failing. Hardly big job to replace and it wouldn't cost too much to replace all of them on the vehicle.My take on them is that they rot and the electrics are problematic. Re rotting, I would take to someone like 'before'n'after' for a proper wax treatment (better than I could attempt) and re the electrics, with my other classics, the more I use them, the more reliable they are, but 90s electrics are new to me. So my question is, will usage help reliability of the electrics, or is it the case that they're just old and will need constant work?
thanks
AP
Mine lives outside and now it doesn't leak (its got a bulkhead now!) I imagine it will be ok. But it does mean you want all the trick bits to work, like rear screen (all of it), front screen (not just a 6" strip) heated mirrors, heated screenwash jets etc. You also need all the door rubbers and window seals to be sound.
These all go wrong and no it doesn't stop the car from going but it makes it a bit more of a pain. I had hoped to have mine inside by now but there was small discepancy with the conservation officer...
These all go wrong and no it doesn't stop the car from going but it makes it a bit more of a pain. I had hoped to have mine inside by now but there was small discepancy with the conservation officer...
I've had a few over the years. Bar the Overfinch I've always deliberately bought ones that have lower spec so as not to have the hassle of the electrics. All the luxury items are becoming quite hard to get hold of now, things like seat controllers, here's glass, dipping mirrors etc.
Basic rule though is that if it has solid metal work then it won't have had the kind of outdoor life that tends to make the worst of old British electrics.
Late 80s models seem to rust a lot less than the 90s ones also.
Basic rule though is that if it has solid metal work then it won't have had the kind of outdoor life that tends to make the worst of old British electrics.
Late 80s models seem to rust a lot less than the 90s ones also.
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