on going series 2a starting problem
Discussion
Since I've owned my 2a (3 years)it will kill the battery within a day or so if not run. So I replaced the battery with a heavy duty one and fitted a new alternator last year....no change! To save getting stranded whenever I went out I fitted a cut off switch directly from the battery but still it's not brilliant. Can something be sapping the power even though the electrics all seem to work ok? Could the starter motor be too tight as sometimes it turns over so slowly it gives the impression the battery is no good? The ignition light starts bright then goes out when turning over. HELP!
When you start it next and it is turning over slow, turn the lights on and see if they are still bright as you turn the engine over, or try too..
I have just had a similar issue with my rebuilt Series 3.. I had replaced all of the earth leads, battery leads, solonoid as part of the rebuild. Occasionally it would refuse to turn over, solonoid clicking, replaced starter motor with a supposed good second hand and it worked OK for a month or so and then the problem started again.. Finally got a recon starter from a reconditioners I have used for all my old classics, in Chatham so close to you, for £80. Never had a problem since..
Check all of the earths, especially the engine to chassis which runs from the N/S chassis rail to starter motor.. Clean them up, also consider cleaning the solonoid terminals as this is where the + from the alternator and power out to the starter and all other electrics is taken from..
You would be surprised how high resistance a corroded terminal can be, even with the ampage being pulled within the starter circuit..
Mark
I have just had a similar issue with my rebuilt Series 3.. I had replaced all of the earth leads, battery leads, solonoid as part of the rebuild. Occasionally it would refuse to turn over, solonoid clicking, replaced starter motor with a supposed good second hand and it worked OK for a month or so and then the problem started again.. Finally got a recon starter from a reconditioners I have used for all my old classics, in Chatham so close to you, for £80. Never had a problem since..
Check all of the earths, especially the engine to chassis which runs from the N/S chassis rail to starter motor.. Clean them up, also consider cleaning the solonoid terminals as this is where the + from the alternator and power out to the starter and all other electrics is taken from..
You would be surprised how high resistance a corroded terminal can be, even with the ampage being pulled within the starter circuit..
Mark
Been struggling for time to get to the bottom of these starting problems, but today I had jump leads on the battery and a booster battery connected too. There was a lovely bright ignition light and a green light, I turned the key and both of them went out but came back strong after I let go of the key. Engine barely turned this time. Next I switched the headlights on and tried again. They virtually went out and there was no turn over at all. Earths look ok but I'm sure that means nothing! Sound like a starter motor seizing up?
I agree with Crossflow.. If you had a good know battery connected via Jump Leads then this does sound like a dud starter.. I would also test with a jump lead from the battery - terminal to a good earthing point on the engine, and also chassis as final test for a dodgy earth.. Talking from experience here, those braided earth bonds can degrade..
If still the same...
Get the starter motor off, 10mins, two bolts and the + cable terminal, take it, along with £80 in cash, upto TA Spares in Chatham and get one of their rebuilt starters.. Don't muck around trying to get a second hand starter or looking at some of the cheap Chinese tosh supplied by some of the big name LR parts suppliers.. I went through 2 second hand starters before I remembered TA Spares, never had a starting problem since..
I used them many years ago for rebuilding many of my classic car alternators/starter motors etc.. I was surprised they were still going..
Mark
If still the same...
Get the starter motor off, 10mins, two bolts and the + cable terminal, take it, along with £80 in cash, upto TA Spares in Chatham and get one of their rebuilt starters.. Don't muck around trying to get a second hand starter or looking at some of the cheap Chinese tosh supplied by some of the big name LR parts suppliers.. I went through 2 second hand starters before I remembered TA Spares, never had a starting problem since..
I used them many years ago for rebuilding many of my classic car alternators/starter motors etc.. I was surprised they were still going..
Mark
king start! 
Well, new starter fitted but still there was a problem. There was an improvement in that this time the starter motor was clicking. I like to think that the old one's bearings etc were probably a bit tight and it was on its way out, so feel happier knowing this one should last. I've changed the battery and it now turns over ok so I'll see if it has held its charge overnight. (the battery I just changed was a 550 from Halfords less than 18 months ago...the moral..don't buy from Halfords!)
I now have discovered another fault..wipers don't work. I've bought a new motor as mine looked pretty rusty anyway but it still doesn't work. It seems that when I switch them on, the earth from motor plug to body becomes live. Anyone seen a switch fail this way?
I now have discovered another fault..wipers don't work. I've bought a new motor as mine looked pretty rusty anyway but it still doesn't work. It seems that when I switch them on, the earth from motor plug to body becomes live. Anyone seen a switch fail this way?
Does anyone know if TA Spares in Chatham is still trading?
I've recently bought a 1972 Series 3 2.25 petrol. It's been running fine but today it developed the 'click' when I turned the ignition. I've established that the problem is on the primary side of the electrics and I wonder if the starter is shot? Before it went it developed the characteristic sound similar to when the battery is on its way out. But the battery is fine.
I think it is as well to bite the bullet and swap it for a recon unit? In the meantime I've also ordered a crank handle.
I've recently bought a 1972 Series 3 2.25 petrol. It's been running fine but today it developed the 'click' when I turned the ignition. I've established that the problem is on the primary side of the electrics and I wonder if the starter is shot? Before it went it developed the characteristic sound similar to when the battery is on its way out. But the battery is fine.
I think it is as well to bite the bullet and swap it for a recon unit? In the meantime I've also ordered a crank handle.
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