Defender 300TDI Max Boost
Discussion
IMO - Don't bother...
If you want a quick car, buy something else!
If you change the boost, you're going to have to change the setup of the fuel pump... The spring needs to be matched to the boost pressure and the fuel delivery adjusted to suit. Then you have the fun & games of EGT, etc... to deal with!
M
If you want a quick car, buy something else!
If you change the boost, you're going to have to change the setup of the fuel pump... The spring needs to be matched to the boost pressure and the fuel delivery adjusted to suit. Then you have the fun & games of EGT, etc... to deal with!
M
Petrolhead said:
Well I have bothered and its a lot better...
I missed that bit... 
Hmmm... I'm guessing that you don't have an EGT gauge fitted or a larger intercooler and have just wound out the max-fueling screw on the pump??
If that's the case, you might want to wind the screw back to where it was before you burn the valves out and do a bit of reading up on the Bosch VE fuel pump.
M
Performance of a diesel engine is measured by the 'peak firing pressure' and 'exhaust temperature'.
By winding up the fueling you may be overloading the engine, without the pressure & exhaust temperature you are doing it blind.
You may be lucky at the moment as the ambient air temperature is less than 10 deg C, every 1 deg C rise will increase your exhaust temperatures by 5 degree C ...sooner or later the exhaust temperatures will rise to a point were the exhaust manifold will be glowing red under full chat .... it will eventually fail due to thermal stress and a very strong chance you will burn out an exhaust valve.
Tuners fit larger intercoolers to keep the inlet air cool so as the exhaust temperatures do not rise beyond the maximium allowable.
By winding up the fueling you may be overloading the engine, without the pressure & exhaust temperature you are doing it blind.
You may be lucky at the moment as the ambient air temperature is less than 10 deg C, every 1 deg C rise will increase your exhaust temperatures by 5 degree C ...sooner or later the exhaust temperatures will rise to a point were the exhaust manifold will be glowing red under full chat .... it will eventually fail due to thermal stress and a very strong chance you will burn out an exhaust valve.
Tuners fit larger intercoolers to keep the inlet air cool so as the exhaust temperatures do not rise beyond the maximium allowable.
budrover said:
Performance of a diesel engine is measured by the 'peak firing pressure' and 'exhaust temperature'.
By winding up the fueling you may be overloading the engine, without the pressure & exhaust temperature you are doing it blind.
You may be lucky at the moment as the ambient air temperature is less than 10 deg C, every 1 deg C rise will increase your exhaust temperatures by 5 degree C ...sooner or later the exhaust temperatures will rise to a point were the exhaust manifold will be glowing red under full chat .... it will eventually fail due to thermal stress and a very strong chance you will burn out an exhaust valve.
Tuners fit larger intercoolers to keep the inlet air cool so as the exhaust temperatures do not rise beyond the maximium allowable.
So maybe an idea to invest in a better intercooler then and drop the boose back to stdBy winding up the fueling you may be overloading the engine, without the pressure & exhaust temperature you are doing it blind.
You may be lucky at the moment as the ambient air temperature is less than 10 deg C, every 1 deg C rise will increase your exhaust temperatures by 5 degree C ...sooner or later the exhaust temperatures will rise to a point were the exhaust manifold will be glowing red under full chat .... it will eventually fail due to thermal stress and a very strong chance you will burn out an exhaust valve.
Tuners fit larger intercoolers to keep the inlet air cool so as the exhaust temperatures do not rise beyond the maximium allowable.
Petrolhead said:
budrover said:
Performance of a diesel engine is measured by the 'peak firing pressure' and 'exhaust temperature'.
By winding up the fueling you may be overloading the engine, without the pressure & exhaust temperature you are doing it blind.
You may be lucky at the moment as the ambient air temperature is less than 10 deg C, every 1 deg C rise will increase your exhaust temperatures by 5 degree C ...sooner or later the exhaust temperatures will rise to a point were the exhaust manifold will be glowing red under full chat .... it will eventually fail due to thermal stress and a very strong chance you will burn out an exhaust valve.
Tuners fit larger intercoolers to keep the inlet air cool so as the exhaust temperatures do not rise beyond the maximium allowable.
So maybe an idea to invest in a better intercooler then and drop the boose back to stdBy winding up the fueling you may be overloading the engine, without the pressure & exhaust temperature you are doing it blind.
You may be lucky at the moment as the ambient air temperature is less than 10 deg C, every 1 deg C rise will increase your exhaust temperatures by 5 degree C ...sooner or later the exhaust temperatures will rise to a point were the exhaust manifold will be glowing red under full chat .... it will eventually fail due to thermal stress and a very strong chance you will burn out an exhaust valve.
Tuners fit larger intercoolers to keep the inlet air cool so as the exhaust temperatures do not rise beyond the maximium allowable.
Fitting a larger intercooler will give you denser (more O2) and cooler air. With this, you can go one of two ways, leave the fuel pump as standard and you'll end up with a more efficient and 'cooler' burn - OR - Increase the fueling and get slightly more power.
So in theory you should be able to increase the amount of fuel but this is where the EGT comes in... If you are fitting a larger intercooler and increasing the fueling, you want to keep the Exhaust Gas Temperatures within the range of where it currently is with the standard intercooler and default fueling.
However, before you do that, try this:
- Reset your pump back to the default.
- Clean out the inside of your existing intercooler.
- New air filter
- New silicone 'elbow' (the one leading to the turbo)
- Blank off your EGT (if fitted)
- Clean the mechanism at the top of the fuel pump (the bit under the rubber diaphragm)
M
camel_landy said:
Petrolhead said:
Crossflow Kid said:
Got a spare head and exhaust manifold ready to go?
Why do you ask?That's where the EGT gauge comes in handy.
Petrolhead said:
What would you clean the inside of a intercollegiate, petrol?
Yeah, you'll need some sort of solvent like that... I wash mine out in a part cleaner.Word of warning though: Once dried out, don't connect it up straight away!!! The residual solvent will cause the engine to rev out of control.
Instead, connect it all off but leave the top hose off. Start the car and while at idle, move the hose, gently towards the intercooler so that it starts to draw air though. As you do this, you'll notice the engine revs increase... Hold it in position until the revs drop and then move it a little closer and closer until you can get the top hose connected.
HTH
M
As for the boost compensation mechanism:
Undo the 4x screws on top of the fuel pump and pop the lid off to expose the rubber diaphragm.
Mark the location of the diaphragm so you know which position it needs to go back into.
Peel the diaphragm back and inspect the mechanism underneath.
If it's moving freely, check that the pin it operates is moving freely too (push down & move the throttle linkage). If everything is OK, just pop a small dab of grease on the offset cone and re-assemble.
If it isn't, drench it in WD40 and wiggle it until it is! Pop it out, clean it up, grease it up and then pop it back in... You can use the groove work in the cone to help line it up!
However, if the pin itself isn't moving, you'll have to mark up and pop off the throttle mechanism so that you can access a 5mm allen screw. This will let you access it from the other side so you can give it a poke!!!
M
Undo the 4x screws on top of the fuel pump and pop the lid off to expose the rubber diaphragm.
Mark the location of the diaphragm so you know which position it needs to go back into.
Peel the diaphragm back and inspect the mechanism underneath.
If it's moving freely, check that the pin it operates is moving freely too (push down & move the throttle linkage). If everything is OK, just pop a small dab of grease on the offset cone and re-assemble.
If it isn't, drench it in WD40 and wiggle it until it is! Pop it out, clean it up, grease it up and then pop it back in... You can use the groove work in the cone to help line it up!
However, if the pin itself isn't moving, you'll have to mark up and pop off the throttle mechanism so that you can access a 5mm allen screw. This will let you access it from the other side so you can give it a poke!!!
M
The 300TDi engine is a PITA as it doesn't have hydraulic tappets. OH well in the military they have plenty of soldiers with time on their hands who are able to do these things.
My experience with the Discovery One is that they usually need a new radiator as the paper thin copper fins corrode away and fall out after about ten years. As the oil cooler is combined with the radiator (bad idea) one has all ones eggs in one basket.
If you are really unlucky a previous owner will have fitted a new timing belt incorrectly. The engine will run OK but it won't be quite right. When eventually the head has to be pulled all the pistons will be found to have valve dents in them. (This also busts the valve caps whose remains will be found in the sump)
The three way widget designed to vent gas and air from the cylinder head and radiator is also a fruitful source of trouble. Once it gets blocked-up one will have a LOT of trouble with air locks.
When buying a "cheap" Discovery 300TDi don't forget that you will almost certainly need a new radiator (about £90), new timing belt kit (about £40) and possibly a new cylinder head and pistons (depends if it fried-up on the way home or soon after) When fitting a timing belt kit with the engine in the car a mirror is needed to view the timing marks squarely. The clowns who look at the timing marks from the top will always screw up.
As to the people wanting more power. There is always the TGV 2.8 As the American car maker used to say "There is NO substitute for cubic inches." The problem of course is that if one fits a lorry engine (the engine used in the Nissan 7.5 tonne lorries does fit OK) the gearbox is liable to go bang. Its not rocket science!
My experience with the Discovery One is that they usually need a new radiator as the paper thin copper fins corrode away and fall out after about ten years. As the oil cooler is combined with the radiator (bad idea) one has all ones eggs in one basket.
If you are really unlucky a previous owner will have fitted a new timing belt incorrectly. The engine will run OK but it won't be quite right. When eventually the head has to be pulled all the pistons will be found to have valve dents in them. (This also busts the valve caps whose remains will be found in the sump)
The three way widget designed to vent gas and air from the cylinder head and radiator is also a fruitful source of trouble. Once it gets blocked-up one will have a LOT of trouble with air locks.
When buying a "cheap" Discovery 300TDi don't forget that you will almost certainly need a new radiator (about £90), new timing belt kit (about £40) and possibly a new cylinder head and pistons (depends if it fried-up on the way home or soon after) When fitting a timing belt kit with the engine in the car a mirror is needed to view the timing marks squarely. The clowns who look at the timing marks from the top will always screw up.
As to the people wanting more power. There is always the TGV 2.8 As the American car maker used to say "There is NO substitute for cubic inches." The problem of course is that if one fits a lorry engine (the engine used in the Nissan 7.5 tonne lorries does fit OK) the gearbox is liable to go bang. Its not rocket science!
camel_landy said:
Petrolhead said:
Crossflow Kid said:
Got a spare head and exhaust manifold ready to go?
Why do you ask?That's where the EGT gauge comes in handy.
For the record, my Uncle has a heavily tuned 300Tdi which has covered over 100,000 since being tuned and is on approx 140,000 - 150,000 miles in total. Never had any engine issues with it at all and it's often used for towing too, so gets worked hard. The performance from it however is astounding. Running between the round abouts in Milton Keynes it has enough grunt to out run and stay ahead of 2.0 TDCi Focus and 2.0 TDI Golf's on a 15-80mph+ sprint. A standard Tdi would not be able to remotely claim this.
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Just noticed the thread date...
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