a+ series automatic
Discussion
David,
Sorry to hear that you need an auto.
However, Sir Stirling Moss had a Mk.1 Cooper 'S' Automatic for driving around London and, apparently, it was a superb car with none of the usual auto power-lack of the 850 or 998.
How difficult it is to do I don't know, but a fully re-conditioned box might be advisable for reliability.
Sorry to hear that you need an auto.
However, Sir Stirling Moss had a Mk.1 Cooper 'S' Automatic for driving around London and, apparently, it was a superb car with none of the usual auto power-lack of the 850 or 998.
How difficult it is to do I don't know, but a fully re-conditioned box might be advisable for reliability.
Cooperman said:
David,
Sorry to hear that you need an auto.
However, Sir Stirling Moss had a Mk.1 Cooper 'S' Automatic for driving around London and, apparently, it was a superb car with none of the usual auto power-lack of the 850 or 998.
How difficult it is to do I don't know, but a fully re-conditioned box might be advisable for reliability.
thanks peter yep legs have took a turn for the worst but i`m a great beliver of not stopping and trying to not let it beat me so think its time for the auto just got to collect parts now Sorry to hear that you need an auto.
However, Sir Stirling Moss had a Mk.1 Cooper 'S' Automatic for driving around London and, apparently, it was a superb car with none of the usual auto power-lack of the 850 or 998.
How difficult it is to do I don't know, but a fully re-conditioned box might be advisable for reliability.
also a non ballast coil is it 9volt or 12volt thanks
If you manage to find a good auto box (make sure you can test drive it) you need to ensure the oil is good quality and changed frequently. The engine and gearbox share the same oil, the auto boxes really don't like dirty oil. The front sub-frames on Mini autos are different to the manual ones, but only due to the holes for the engine mount - you should be able to redrill.
Good luck.
Good luck.
if your putting an auto into a manual car you will need the auto frame as its wider.
minis where sold as a 1275auto, both as a carb version and as an spi, so it may be worth looking for a later one rather than messing yourself.
as has been mentioned above, the auto boxes need care, regular oil changes and they also benefit from been allowed to warm up before driving.
ive bought and stripped many auto 1275s over the years as they are always cheap and the cranks are very rarely worn as they are never really thrashed - its the boxes that fail due to never having the oil changed
minis where sold as a 1275auto, both as a carb version and as an spi, so it may be worth looking for a later one rather than messing yourself.
as has been mentioned above, the auto boxes need care, regular oil changes and they also benefit from been allowed to warm up before driving.
ive bought and stripped many auto 1275s over the years as they are always cheap and the cranks are very rarely worn as they are never really thrashed - its the boxes that fail due to never having the oil changed
guru_1071 said:
if your putting an auto into a manual car you will need the auto frame as its wider.
minis where sold as a 1275auto, both as a carb version and as an spi, so it may be worth looking for a later one rather than messing yourself.
as has been mentioned above, the auto boxes need care, regular oil changes and they also benefit from been allowed to warm up before driving.
ive bought and stripped many auto 1275s over the years as they are always cheap and the cranks are very rarely worn as they are never really thrashed - its the boxes that fail due to never having the oil changed
is the oil in an auto still 20/50 or do you need thiner minis where sold as a 1275auto, both as a carb version and as an spi, so it may be worth looking for a later one rather than messing yourself.
as has been mentioned above, the auto boxes need care, regular oil changes and they also benefit from been allowed to warm up before driving.
ive bought and stripped many auto 1275s over the years as they are always cheap and the cranks are very rarely worn as they are never really thrashed - its the boxes that fail due to never having the oil changed
Use 20/50, any thinner and the gearbox won't work properly. And don't forget to change it at least every 6k. There are always lots of cheap (and some not so cheap !!) 1275 autos on your favourite auction site as they are preceived as less desireable. As Guru says the auto subframe is wider so you'll need that too which is more painful for a conversion. Wiring wise there are a couple of additionals like the start inhibitor switch on the gear-shift, but nothing too tricky. You can tune the engine up a bit in the usual manor, Stage 1 kit, head and stuff, but don't go wild or the clutches in the box won't last long.
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