"homemade" front wheel tracking.
Discussion
vrooom said:
and the steering wheel is not straight.
Do you mean that when the wheels are pointing straight ahead, the steering wheel is turned slightly to one side? If so, you can fix this by removing the steering wheel and refitting it in a slightly different position - there are multiple splines on the joint to allow for this.
Sorry but I know nothing about other tracking / camber stuff, but I'm sure Cooperman will be along shortly to enlighten us!
Two ways of checking your tracking.
Either using tubing with a couple of nuts soldered onto the ends or timber.
Basically you need to measure the distance between the wheel rims at the front of the wheels and the back of the wheels. The difference is the toe in (or out). you'll have to do the sums. Basically what you are trying to construct is a pair of calipers with a gap of about 4 foot 6in to 5 foot I think.
The tubing is the more acurate way, bend it into a U or C shape to go around the front of the car, weld/solder the nuts to each end and screw a bolt through the nut at each end. One bolt goes to the wheel rim on one wheel and the distance to the other wheel rim from the other bolt should be noted. Do this at the front and back edge of the front wheel rims and do the sums. Sorry that all sounds more complicated than it really is. THe trick is to ensure that your measuring device is rigid 'cos if its flexible you'll not get accurate readings.
On the other hand, if it's just the steering wheel thats out of true shift it one spline as above.
Either using tubing with a couple of nuts soldered onto the ends or timber.
Basically you need to measure the distance between the wheel rims at the front of the wheels and the back of the wheels. The difference is the toe in (or out). you'll have to do the sums. Basically what you are trying to construct is a pair of calipers with a gap of about 4 foot 6in to 5 foot I think.
The tubing is the more acurate way, bend it into a U or C shape to go around the front of the car, weld/solder the nuts to each end and screw a bolt through the nut at each end. One bolt goes to the wheel rim on one wheel and the distance to the other wheel rim from the other bolt should be noted. Do this at the front and back edge of the front wheel rims and do the sums. Sorry that all sounds more complicated than it really is. THe trick is to ensure that your measuring device is rigid 'cos if its flexible you'll not get accurate readings.
On the other hand, if it's just the steering wheel thats out of true shift it one spline as above.
I usualy borrow Chris spennewyn's tracking gauge or go to my local tyre shop where the manager is a friend of mine.
However, the most simple way I have ever heard of doing this, but I've never tried it myself, is as follows:
You get two plastic bottle crates and stand one by each front wheel with the wheels as straight ahead as possible. You push the crates inwards until they are touching the front tyres and measure from the back inside corner of the crate on one side to the same point on the other. Repeat this for the front inside edge and adjust until both dimensions are exactly equal.
It ain't perfect, but it's also not too far out and very simple. Ideal if you've just fitted a new rack and want to drive to the tyre shop for an accurate setting. I always set zero toe-in/toe-out on my cars.
However, the most simple way I have ever heard of doing this, but I've never tried it myself, is as follows:
You get two plastic bottle crates and stand one by each front wheel with the wheels as straight ahead as possible. You push the crates inwards until they are touching the front tyres and measure from the back inside corner of the crate on one side to the same point on the other. Repeat this for the front inside edge and adjust until both dimensions are exactly equal.
It ain't perfect, but it's also not too far out and very simple. Ideal if you've just fitted a new rack and want to drive to the tyre shop for an accurate setting. I always set zero toe-in/toe-out on my cars.
I use two 1m length of angle pushed onto the side of the wheel by a couple of convenient bits of wood, two tape measures hooked over the angle on one side of the car and fed under the car to the other side. It isn't as accurate as a laser system but only takes seconds to measure and can measure a difference of a couple of mil over a meter (about a tenth of a degree), which is better accurancy than I need, total cost was about £5.
Talking maintenance tips, and by way of a laugh, my old buddy with whom I started rallying in a Mini in 1961, Bill Rogers, who now lives in California and owns a full spec 1071cc Cooper 'S' rally car, once posted what he called 'Maintenance Tip of the Month':
'The easiest way to dismantle your spring loaded radiator cap is to drop it through the fan when the engine is running!'.
'The easiest way to dismantle your spring loaded radiator cap is to drop it through the fan when the engine is running!'.
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