Removing engine on front subframe....
Discussion
it is possible, but its so much work and hassle that you will only do it once!
taking the engine out through the top is easy, two people can lift it out (done it thousands of times)
even using a lifter (which i use now) doesnt make it much harder.
it should take 20min - 2hours to get the motor out, depending on how rusty stuff is!
taking the engine out through the top is easy, two people can lift it out (done it thousands of times)
even using a lifter (which i use now) doesnt make it much harder.
it should take 20min - 2hours to get the motor out, depending on how rusty stuff is!
Haynes Manual.
But is is quite logic anyway:
- disconnect battery
- remove oil, water
- remove carb, disconnect exhaust
- disconnect heater tubes, heater cable
- disconnect wires (ignition, oil press. sender, water sender etc)
- remove cluch slave cylinder (leave it hanging, dont have to release the fluid)
- disconnect engine earth wire
- support the car on stands, remove the front wheels, take the upper suspension ball joint out, pull halfshafts out (method depending on type).
- disconnect gear selector (depends on type)
- remove engine stabilizer(s)
- undo engine mounts
- lift engine out.
Maybe left out some steps, but all quite straight foreward.
Though it is possible to remove the engine with the alternator/dynamo and starter in place, I usualy remove them to make things easier. May also be good to remove the radiator before lifting the engine.
Not that hard to remove the engine as Guru said, but doing it without damaging the paintjob, is another matter .
But is is quite logic anyway:
- disconnect battery
- remove oil, water
- remove carb, disconnect exhaust
- disconnect heater tubes, heater cable
- disconnect wires (ignition, oil press. sender, water sender etc)
- remove cluch slave cylinder (leave it hanging, dont have to release the fluid)
- disconnect engine earth wire
- support the car on stands, remove the front wheels, take the upper suspension ball joint out, pull halfshafts out (method depending on type).
- disconnect gear selector (depends on type)
- remove engine stabilizer(s)
- undo engine mounts
- lift engine out.
Maybe left out some steps, but all quite straight foreward.
Though it is possible to remove the engine with the alternator/dynamo and starter in place, I usualy remove them to make things easier. May also be good to remove the radiator before lifting the engine.
Not that hard to remove the engine as Guru said, but doing it without damaging the paintjob, is another matter .
If what you want is the engine and gearbox out, there is little point in removing the entire sub-frame as that entails disconnection of fuel line, brake lines, battery lead and all sub-frame mountings. Then the engine and sub-frame have to be properly supported at 4 points whilst you and friends life the body very high and roll it back to clear, then support it on stands.
It's just so easy to take out the engine & box as an assembly and put it onto the bench with just a crane hoist.
It's just so easy to take out the engine & box as an assembly and put it onto the bench with just a crane hoist.
Yes Peter, I don't think it would be too bad really - I look forward to getting to the stage of finding out!
Some people have modified the 'front' bulkhead so that the engine can be lifted out (after removing a lot of the anilleries I imagine, otherwise the hole isn't big enough!), and of course some cars have a removeable front end which makes life an awful lot simpler!
But I don't fancy cutting away fibreglass from a new shell, so Up & Under it is for me (or under & up!)
Edited for speeling - bloody sticking keyboard!
Some people have modified the 'front' bulkhead so that the engine can be lifted out (after removing a lot of the anilleries I imagine, otherwise the hole isn't big enough!), and of course some cars have a removeable front end which makes life an awful lot simpler!
But I don't fancy cutting away fibreglass from a new shell, so Up & Under it is for me (or under & up!)
Edited for speeling - bloody sticking keyboard!
Edited by Cooper1999 on Friday 18th March 09:06
Edited by Cooper1999 on Friday 18th March 09:07
I always remove and re-fit with the alternator on, starter motor on, fan belt tightened, radiator on, but inlet and exhaust manifolds and carb(s)off. With a 3-into-1 exhaust manifold that can also be fitted before installation - indeed it needs to be. You need the correct 'sky hook' to hold the engine at the right angle.
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