Can I have some advice on this mini and spec

[vauxh al]

http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2477888.htm

Looking at the above car, now I'm pretty clued up on my jap cars and TVR's etc. But these mini bring a whole new language. My only worry if the final drive ratio, I would want to race it and worry its too short. What would an ideal ratio be?

Thanks for any advice.

[camelotr]

This engine will peak around 7k. Top speed would be just above 110mph. You know what kind of races You would like to use it for, but IMHO it is quite good for most of the race types.

Edited by camelotr on Monday 14th March 09:13

[camelotr]

Just one addition: the shell is deffiniatly NOT a mkII Cooper "S", but rather an mkIV on.

[vauxh al]

Thanks for the tips. So does the body shell affect the price or is it a reasonable price given the spec. Also how easy is changing the ratios? Would be looking at circuit racing with CSCC and any series like that.

[camelotr]

I dont want to comment the price. Special cars go for special prices - and this is deffiniatly a special one.

Changing the ratios is a pain on a mini. Engine needs to be removed, stripped. Even for the final drive change.

The best would be to check the tracks and ask around for highest speeds in the category. Check for onboard videos on the net, with some mats, You can figure out what diffs they use.

[vauxh al]

Thanks for the advice, JonSpeed were quoting £400 for engine out and in with another 100 for the crown wheel. Seems expensive.

Who in the SE is a good mini specialist place?

[Cooperman]

The price for engine out/engine in seems fair at £400.
A 3.9 final drive is about right for that spec of engine. It's what I run in my 1964 1310 cc 'S' historic rally car.
If it's for racing I'm surprised it only has a 286 cam and 10:1 CR. Something like a 296 and 11:1 CR would seem more appropriate if it's to be competitive, even at 1380 cc. The 286 is really a rally cam and it's what I have.
With all those parts the price looks reasonable.

[vauxh al]

Cheers Cooperman, I was wondering if cam profiles might be a little peaky. It really has been designed as a hill sprint car, so the track may have to wait, and I try some climb events instead.

What top speed do you get with that FD?

[FWDRacer]

Check series eligibility regs before parting with any cash. The spec here would put you in a modified saloon class only, on either the hills or a circuit and frankly the car would struggle to be competitive in an up to 1.4 litre formula...

Not wishing to rain on anybodies parade - hope the post doesn't come across in that manner.

[vauxh al]

Not taken wrongly at all. Here to learn. Will be calling cscc today.

[haynes]

Cooperman said:

The price for engine out/engine in seems fair at £400.
A 3.9 final drive is about right for that spec of engine. It's what I run in my 1964 1310 cc 'S' historic rally car.
If it's for racing I'm surprised it only has a 286 cam and 10:1 CR. Something like a 296 and 11:1 CR would seem more appropriate if it's to be competitive, even at 1380 cc. The 286 is really a rally cam and it's what I have.
With all those parts the price looks reasonable.

I thought the cam was a bit mild but it says something about plans to put in a supercharger, but that would make it more awkward to fit into a race / hill climb category. Twin SUs seem an odd choice unless historic. However it does look like a nicely put together car.

Vauxh - are you intending to drive on the road, have a bit of fun at track days or hillclimbs, or to seriously get into circuit racing?

A 3.7 final drive at 8000rpm reaches 120mph at 8000rpm so i think this car will reach over 105mph at 7500rpm. As the engine gets more race and the power band gets narrower then it benefits from closer ratio gears and the higher final drives. A 3.1 would be fine in a torquey road engine on motorways but top gear wont be useable until 50mph if the power doesnt kick in until 3000rpm.

Why do you want to change the final drive?

[vauxh al]

From looking a series I can do, it would be sprints/ climbs. Some trackdays and if the gearing allows which it sounds like it would then CSCC if the car is eligible.

Tmf has also mentioned the carbs, and maybe they will get changed for webber.

All in all it's looking more promising that I first thought.

[camelotr]

I have just checked: Mini Miglias also use 3.9 fds (rules only allow this ratio), and they are racing in a very tought track competition. According to their website, hey hit the 125mph margin whith this ratio. Although I asume their engines are built to reach 7.5-8k occasionaly.

[camelotr]

BTW, You may also check the "mini7" clubs website. There are more than one intresting cars in their classifield section. At least good for a comparison.

[vauxh al]

I'm looking at this so much, is it will be a straight swap for my vx220, which is up for sale. Now if I had the cash I may go elsewhere. But sales are hard to come by, and amicable swaps seem like a good idea. Only want to make sure the mini is worth asking money really or am I going to be lumped now with something worth less than my vx that also needs constant rebuilds.

[FWDRacer]

Just remember that good Minis are now appreciating assests - no matter how many times you need to rebuild them

Same be said of a VX220 ?

[vauxh al]

THis is a right nightmare, one min I think yes next min no.

FYI this is TMF verdict...

http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?sho...

[FWDRacer]

TMF forum - had a read and the advice seems to point to a car of unknown pedigree. At 8K you'd want something known, with some history and close to turn key for your chosen discipline, not something you need to carve up mechanically to compete on the Hills. Good call on Diff too - Hillclimb or Sprint - 4.1 or greater required and decent engine torque. The most competitive Hillclimb/Sprint Mini's are using blown 998cc units making use of the turbo's 'capacity x1.4' equivalency formula.

Maybe start with a rolling shell? Always keep an eye on the Mini7.co.uk classifieds as they periodically come up.

[guru_1071]

my 2p

this is a lot of money

its (presumably) an old rally car (hence the msa logbook), its only any use as a comp car if everything is dated and up to date licence wise - i doubt this is

the engine is a worry - it sounds like its popped and has had a cheap rebuild. when it comes to buying old race cars its best to assume that the engine has had its life thrashed out of it and pay accordinally - if there are no up to date invoices to show what is in the engine (with dyno sheets etc) then treat the engine as a std engine needing a rebuild.

im sure its a decent car, and the seller is just trying to get his money back, but its cannot be a sorted race car AND a car that can be used on the road.

id expect a race motor to need a rebuild every 500-1000 miles - if this has been to germany then its going to need a check.

i personally price it at 4500-5000 - harsh, but as a complete car its not (as has been pointed out above) much use.

as FWB says, if your wanting a proper track toy that can be used for hill climbs, buy an ex mig or 7 and enjoy it

if your wanting a road car that has very rare track use, then buy a decent fast road car.

ive driven cars like this on the road before, and after a couple of trips its normally better to walk!

[haynes]

Your enthusiasm to go get a mini really shines through and i think both here and on tmf we are willing you on to find the right car.

On the face of it you would think you can have a fast road mini, go hillclimbing and circuit racing all in one but the reality isnt quite that simple. Each discipline has its own specific requirements, regulations to meet etc and you need to find a car to suit exactly what you wnat to do.

There are some odd things about the spec of the car youre looking at. It has a plumbed in fire extinquisher but only a 6 point bolt in cage (youd expect multipoint weld in for the circuit). And why co driver lap timers? And as previoulsy mentioned the engine spec appears quite mild. Either its built for something quite speciifc and i'm completely missing the point or its just a go fast toy, theres nothing wrong with that (ive got one of those myself) but it doesnt make it a race car. The problem is to get it tailored to the circuit or hills could mean more investment.