Problem :-(

[mippie]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 12 March 2011 at 12:48

[Typhoo]

Have you had any luck solving this yet ?
The most obvious things to suggest would be a flat battery,
or the earth lead has come loose.
But as you were driving it before it suddenly cut out, I would check
the wiring harness behind the air filter housing.
The wiring can chafe on the metal clip of the housing and short out.
Hope this helps

Typhoo

[mippie]

Hey,

No luck yet .... its a weird one, because i still have battery, lights run, airconn runs radio etc...there is just literally nothing when i turn the key in the ignition, no starter motor clicking or anything...kinda at a loss...prob gonna check the distributor cap and distributor....but again, at a logger head with it..

[guru_1071]

good look finding the distributor cap!

the mpis use a coil pack and a trigger sensor that runs of the back of the flywheel.

your probably best getting it on a fault code reader - this will point to what has failed

[mippie]

Ah poo.....why cnt it be the same as my good old mayfair lol

[Ben Magoo]

I think maybe you're over complicating this a little - essentially it is the same as any other Mini but with a basic EFI system. Although I don't beleive this is your problem.

TBH I would start with the very basics - if the starter isn't opperating or even clicking test to see if you have power from the switch to the starter solonoid (your's should be a pre-engaged starter with the solonoid within a housing on top of the starter)

You can also check to see if the starter motor itself is working by carfully contacting a 12v power supply directly to the motor conacts by passing the solonoid (make sure its out of gear)

I like using a simple test bulb for this as it gives a clear on/off result.

Also check the condition of your earthing points and that the starter wiring is secure - the starting system draws the most power and a loose connection can mean that although the low current drawn by auxillary functions such as light etc will still get through, the much larger current drawn to engage the starting system won't have sufficient conductivity.

HTH?

Edited by Ben Magoo on Monday 7th March 21:55

[cpas]

If nothing at all it happening, then it not related to the coil, ECU, distributor etc. If it's turning over and not firing, then fair enough. I can't work what made it stop and not want to start again. Try putting it in 4th gear (remove handbrake)and try to move the car - this will get the engine to turn over slightly as long as it's not seized - it may be something like water in the cylinder head. Alternatively, try removing the plugs and spinning the engine. A friend of mine's car had a head gasket leak which effectively seized the engine with water compression.

[mippie]

Oops didn't mean to do tht lol...Urm had car in 4th gear and moved it...so engine was turning over....like I said have power....hohum...

[Ben Magoo]

Another back hander these cars can throw you is the clutch release bearing, are you trying to start the car with your foot on the clutch pedal?

When the bearing seizes you only find out when the clutch is disengaged and all of the pressure plate load is on the bearing - try starting out of gear, no feet on the pedals?

[Ben Magoo]

How's you getting on matey?

[casbar]

Update: I'm Mippies old man Took a trailer down and brought the car home on Saturday.

Starting issue was a red herring The main feed to the starter (spade con) was corroded, so when you tried to start, it blew the 30amp fuse (No 4) in the engine fuse box. Cleaned up the con, replaced the fuse, the car starts ok.

The issue we have now is:

Car starts, runs and drives ok, as long as you don't rev it too hard. So you can drive hapily upto 3k revs. It revs fine when not moving. Once you rev hard (accelerate) when moving in any gear, engine splutters and dies.

It will then start ok. My thoughts, something to do with eithe mapping, or fuel reg, ie under load, not enough fuel. Needs more investigation

[guru_1071]

how long have you owned this car?

and did it do this spluttering thing before?

[casbar]

Had the car for 2 years now, engine re-built last year. Have had no issues with this until a couple of weeks ago. I'm getting a mate to put on the MPI fault finder. But I'm starting to thing it might be the MAP sensor, as apparenlty this sensor feeds vacuum pressue reading to the ECU, and lets the ECU know when the engine is under load. That would kind of fit in with the symptons of, you can rev the engine fine, and drive ok, until you give it beans, then the fueling goes to pot.

[guru_1071]

if it is the map sensor, then be prepared for a shock, they are expensive.

they did use them on other models of rovers though, so with a bit of hunting you can find one that fits

[casbar]

I'll check the vacuum hoses first, the bit I'm not sure about, is if its the Vapor Trap (sensor for the MAP), it would appear to only effect the engine when its under load and not when just stood still, but I guess I can check this by unplugging the wires to it, and seeing if the same behaviour occurs.

[guru_1071]

the map on the twin point is on the inlet manifold and is held on with two little screws, they break really easily and let air get drawn in (hence the rough running)

[casbar]

Thanks, I'll inspect it tonight and see if anything is obvious.

[casbar]

Ok, so inspected the sensor, it looked ok, so started engine and removed the lead off the sensor, engine died. So either its working ok when you rev the car, but not when the engine is under load, or its not the MAP sensor. Thought I had it cracked then

[casbar]

All sorted (or just about). Turned out that the loom had touched the exhaust, two + feeds where burnt through and when the engine was under load, they were shorting on the exhaust, which caused the ECU to cut out. Just need to change the bushes on the top engine steady now to stop the engine moving :-)