Rear Subframe and Fuse box?

[anonymous-user]

How hard and expensive is it to change these?
Looking at one that's failed its MOT on them

Thanks

[DanGT]

I have done both. I can not think how a fuse box fails an MOT? lights not working. The fuse box is not to hard to change if required (not the connectors going to it?) JUst take your time and some pics befor so you know were the wires go back can be a good idea. The rear subframe is a common part to replace. It is quite a bit of work but on the hole not two hard (2 people helps). Not the hole list but, brack pipes un connect, exhast off, hand brack cable etc. The other thing is supporting the car when doing the work. But many have done it.

[anonymous-user]

I thought that about the fusebox, guy didn't really narrow it down much.
Subframe expensive?

[haynes]

One of the main issues with replacing the subframe are the bolts into the back of the seal / bulkhead. They are often corroded with a good chance of snapping the head off, stripping the captive thread. So go out there now and spread wd40 in there, and do so every day for a week. Then with a very good fitting ring spanner see if you can tighten them a little, as this will be easier than undoing. If they move, then slacken back a little, more wd40, and keep moving them back and forth a little until they free up, patience is the key. If the head does snap, you may still be able to slide the subframe off when everything else is disconnected, once its clear using some pipe grips on the stub it may still come out.

Just found this, which gives you an idea
http://www.dazecoop.com/28-01-2008/removing-and-re...

[anonymous-user]

haynes said:

One of the main issues with replacing the subframe are the bolts into the back of the seal / bulkhead. They are often corroded with a good chance of snapping the head off, stripping the captive thread. So go out there now and spread wd40 in there, and do so every day for a week. Then with a very good fitting ring spanner see if you can tighten them a little, as this will be easier than undoing. If they move, then slacken back a little, more wd40, and keep moving them back and forth a little until they free up, patience is the key. If the head does snap, you may still be able to slide the subframe off when everything else is disconnected, once its clear using some pipe grips on the stub it may still come out.

Just found this, which gives you an idea
http://www.dazecoop.com/28-01-2008/removing-and-re...

Thank you, appreciate it

[minivanman]

Fusebox is dead easy - just make sure you label it all as it comes off so they go back in the right order! or get a picture before you start. Rear subframe can be a nightmare - as said its the ones into the heelboard that cause the trouble. Last one I did sheared 7 out of 8 of the bolts holding the radius arm brackets, but the main ones into the heelboard were like new! my lucky day... If you do shear them though or the thread is knackered its quite an easy fix - run a 22mm holesaw through them, weld a nut to a washer and zap it into place using the trunnion as a jig to keep it in line.
minispares do this kit which is quite handy:
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&p...

[Roadster25]

Just make sure it is just the subframe that is rotten and not where it attaches to the car. I had a sound subframe which I thought was on the way out when in fact the heelboard had more or less vansihed. Had to scrap the car eventually because I ran out of places to weld to!