Metro electronic ignition
Discussion
theres a bit on www.ime.org.uk/ime/i/ignition.html, however i strongly suspect the metro is ballasted and a 1974 mini is not. Minis used a high resistance wire as opposed to a separate ballast resistor, don't know about the metro. I suspect you need to use the metro coil and provide a ballasted supply.
You’ll also need to modify the dizzy to alter the advance curve to get the best performance as it’s meant to be used on a 1275, use the metro coil and you’ll be away.
My 998 ran a standard metro setup and didn’t make much difference but stopped all the hassle of having to set the points.
While you’re there a weatherproof kit is a good idea.
My 998 ran a standard metro setup and didn’t make much difference but stopped all the hassle of having to set the points.
While you’re there a weatherproof kit is a good idea.
on a similar note I have just fitted a 1.3 metro A series engine into my mini flame ( f reg ). This is a change from points to electronic ignition. The engine ran fine in the metro and it starts and runs fine in the mini until about 2500 rpm under load when the engine splutters and the rev counter jumps up and down? Accelerate harder and this disapears. Any ideas out there?
Thanks
Thanks
The best people to speak to are Aldon Automotive - 01384 572553. They are specialists in distributors, amongst other things.
If you do call them speak to Rob. If you give them a full engine spec they will recommend the right ignition system (points or solid state) and, if you wish, re-curve a distributor, on an exchange basis, to suit your specific set-up. They did one for my 1275 rally car a couple of years ago when I needed more overall mechanical advance. It transformed the car as I could then get max advance possible at the top end without the static advance being so high that the engine would not turn over. All for £100 exchange inc VAT.
They really are very good IMHO.
Peter
If you do call them speak to Rob. If you give them a full engine spec they will recommend the right ignition system (points or solid state) and, if you wish, re-curve a distributor, on an exchange basis, to suit your specific set-up. They did one for my 1275 rally car a couple of years ago when I needed more overall mechanical advance. It transformed the car as I could then get max advance possible at the top end without the static advance being so high that the engine would not turn over. All for £100 exchange inc VAT.
They really are very good IMHO.
Peter
Thanks Cooperman your words are always welcome.
Finally I have decided to fit with the original Lucas electronic ignition dizzy a programable ignition module.
I'm studing machanical engineering, and in my school there is a dynamometer, that I can use for a month.
My termical engineering professor has said me that a can "play" with the dynamometer without ploblem.
It will be enougth time to achieve the correct curve?
Finally I have decided to fit with the original Lucas electronic ignition dizzy a programable ignition module.
I'm studing machanical engineering, and in my school there is a dynamometer, that I can use for a month.
My termical engineering professor has said me that a can "play" with the dynamometer without ploblem.
It will be enougth time to achieve the correct curve?
Hey Pez, when I was a student of Mechanical & Aeronautical Engineering at Hatfield, we had a heat engines lab with a dynamometer. Believe it or not, the engine we had to test was a 1949 Ford V8 Pilot 3.6 litre. That was also the car I drove for a while, so they used to get me to set up the 2-tier distributor, one tier for each bank of cylinders. Great days, but so long ago. And now I play with Minis. I can't decide what to do when I grow up!
sorted my jumping rev counter, I ran a fresh 12v ignition live to the +ve on the coil and removed the original ballasted supply, everything is now fine. This works as the electric pack on the metro dizzy needs a straight 12v supply. Cheap electronic ignition. Just got to sort the speedo now as it is under reading the actual speedo as its a metro box
Hi folks, was about to post a similar question and saw this.
i have now got my MG Metro engine & box (ok so it won't turn over completely but thats another problem.
The lump came with the MG electronic dizzy, which has a socket for a 3 pin connector but no plug for that. What goes where please and do I then run a 12v coil or a ballasted coil. Its a 74 Clubman so probably had a 12v coil originally.
Thanks folks.
Tony H
i have now got my MG Metro engine & box (ok so it won't turn over completely but thats another problem.
The lump came with the MG electronic dizzy, which has a socket for a 3 pin connector but no plug for that. What goes where please and do I then run a 12v coil or a ballasted coil. Its a 74 Clubman so probably had a 12v coil originally.
Thanks folks.
Tony H
The URL given caught the trailing comma so pointed nowhere (I got a 404 alert) this one works
www.ime.org.uk/ime/i/ignition.html
......thanks for mentioning the IME! If you have anything to add from your years of MINI'ing please let us know
Split pin removal anyone?
www.ime.org.uk/ime/c/clevis_pin_removal.html
Regards
FB
>> Edited by johnbullas on Wednesday 6th October 08:49
www.ime.org.uk/ime/i/ignition.html
......thanks for mentioning the IME! If you have anything to add from your years of MINI'ing please let us know
Split pin removal anyone?
www.ime.org.uk/ime/c/clevis_pin_removal.html
Regards
FB
>> Edited by johnbullas on Wednesday 6th October 08:49
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