Seeping Cylinderhead

Seeping Cylinderhead

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Discussion

Mini_Lund

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

217 months

Wednesday 6th October 2010
quotequote all
Hi guys,

I have noticed this for a while now, but I'm just bringing it to light. The block and Cylinder head have both been skimmed and a new copper gasket fitted as you know. I have checked the torque of the head and its all torqued to the correct Nm in sequence. I'm getting bubbles on the face of the block and an oily wet 'seep' where the block and head meets. Is it worth torquing the cylinder head to metro turbo spec?

Cheers.

FWDRacer

3,564 posts

231 months

Thursday 7th October 2010
quotequote all
After you had the block decked (skimmed), did you chamfer (45 degree 0.5/0.7mm wide) the block/head stud mounting holes in the block?

If this isn't done, when the head is torqued, it can cause local weaknesses as the cylinder head stud pulls up', causing localised high spots that can compromise the head gasket interface. Your weep sounds very representative of this condition.

Did you or the guy who prepared the block do this? I'd find out first before you re/torque or overtorque the head, otherwise you'll compound the situation.


Mini_Lund

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

217 months

Thursday 7th October 2010
quotequote all
FWDRacer said:
After you had the block decked (skimmed), did you chamfer (45 degree 0.5/0.7mm wide) the block/head stud mounting holes in the block?

If this isn't done, when the head is torqued, it can cause local weaknesses as the cylinder head stud pulls up', causing localised high spots that can compromise the head gasket interface. Your weep sounds very representative of this condition.

Did you or the guy who prepared the block do this? I'd find out first before you re/torque or overtorque the head, otherwise you'll compound the situation.
Hi Gareth, yes this was done. I'm scared of over torquing and stripping the studs in the block so reluctant to re-torque, but a seeping cylinder head can't be good.

Also on another note, I'm about flush the water system and put some anti freeze in, whats the best way of draining the water? On my 850 I used to drain it from the drain plug located on the rear of the block, but this A+ doesnt have one. Whip the bottom hose off?

Cheers

FWDRacer

3,564 posts

231 months

Thursday 7th October 2010
quotequote all
Get a couple of pictures up of the condition.

What studs are fitted? - if they are standard I wouldn't go caveman on them - Overtorque - yes but not by much and make sure the motor has stood overnight.

Draining the system - Bottom house off hehe

DanGT

753 posts

233 months

Thursday 7th October 2010
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Are the studs in good condition and with a small amount of oil on them. If not it could just be that the bolts are catching and you have not got fill torq on.

haynes

370 posts

249 months

Thursday 7th October 2010
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Are the copper gaskets anygood? A long time ago now i was constanlty blowing copper gaskets, but the composite turbo ones seemed the answer. I'm sure Pete Cooperman had a thread aboput gasket quality recently but alas the search isnt working.

Mini_Lund

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

217 months

Thursday 7th October 2010
quotequote all
Its a Payen copper gasket that's on there. I don't ever remember torquing the studs into the block, but just nipped them up. The studs are probably well oiled by now wink

Cooperman

4,428 posts

257 months

Thursday 7th October 2010
quotequote all
A couple of points about head gaskets:
First of all, last year Payen sold a huge number of sub-standard gaskets. Initially it was thought that only the black gaskets (BK450) were suspect, but subsequently it turned out that some copper-faced (AF460) ones were defective as well.
Secondly, it is likely that some suppliers still have some of the suspect ones on their shelves. The major suppliers like Mini Spares withdrew all their head gaskets and for a while none were available in which we could have any trust.
However, all the ones supplied by Mini Spares have, for a long time now, been fine.
Tom, if you suspect that you may have a defective gasket, my advice is to get a new BK450 black gasket from Mini Spares then you'll know it is OK. By the way, when fitting the black composite BK450, do not oil the mating faces as you do with the copper-faced ones or it will not seat properly. Torque it to 50 lb.ft.

Mini_Lund

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

217 months

Friday 8th October 2010
quotequote all
Cooperman said:
A couple of points about head gaskets:
First of all, last year Payen sold a huge number of sub-standard gaskets. Initially it was thought that only the black gaskets (BK450) were suspect, but subsequently it turned out that some copper-faced (AF460) ones were defective as well.
Secondly, it is likely that some suppliers still have some of the suspect ones on their shelves. The major suppliers like Mini Spares withdrew all their head gaskets and for a while none were available in which we could have any trust.
However, all the ones supplied by Mini Spares have, for a long time now, been fine.
Tom, if you suspect that you may have a defective gasket, my advice is to get a new BK450 black gasket from Mini Spares then you'll know it is OK. By the way, when fitting the black composite BK450, do not oil the mating faces as you do with the copper-faced ones or it will not seat properly. Torque it to 50 lb.ft.
The gasket was bought from Mini spares not so long ago smile However, I didn't realise you had to oil the mating faces of copper gaskets? I cant remember if I fitted a black one or copper.