Clutch Slave Cylinder
Discussion
Well after having to leave it standing for a year I jumped in the ol' car and pressed the clutch pedal. It went to the floor came back up and then stuck like a brick. If only the brake pedal was that firm. That was 6 months ago. I left it in what seems to be its final resting place until today when I went back out to it while here for a week.
Unscrewed the bleed and tried to push the piston & rod back up the slave cylinder, it has worked in the past. But this time the piston is seriously stuck. Obvious answer is to replace the rusting lump of crud but which cylinder did I use?
Its a MG Metro block and gearbox, but the whole car was a bit of a mix & match in that area. Did I use the old 1970's mini slave cylinder and hose or the MG cylinder and new hose or.........
Is there anyway of discerning which cylinder I used before taking it completely off the car.
Tomorrow, midgies allowing, I am off to try and free off the brakes.....they were new "S" calipers two and a half year ago and have done only about 200mile....
Unscrewed the bleed and tried to push the piston & rod back up the slave cylinder, it has worked in the past. But this time the piston is seriously stuck. Obvious answer is to replace the rusting lump of crud but which cylinder did I use?
Its a MG Metro block and gearbox, but the whole car was a bit of a mix & match in that area. Did I use the old 1970's mini slave cylinder and hose or the MG cylinder and new hose or.........
Is there anyway of discerning which cylinder I used before taking it completely off the car.
Tomorrow, midgies allowing, I am off to try and free off the brakes.....they were new "S" calipers two and a half year ago and have done only about 200mile....
There are only 2 types of clutch slave cylinder - pre-verto and verto. If you have the pre-verto with the long clutch arm that is one type of cylinder, the 'short-arm, i.e. verto-type being the other. By the way, Tony, I had a problem with the cluth not fully disengaging on my '73 Innocenti. It was moving apparently OK although it would not engage gear cleanly, but when I compared the linear movement of the top of the arm against my Mk.1 'S' the Inno was only moving 0.32" whilst the 'S' was moving about 0.55". I fitted a new genuine Mk. 1 slave and the Inno then moved 0.58" and it all worked fine. If I had not had the other car to compare it to I would not have thought it a slave problem as it seemed to be working OK, but would have stripped the linkage out seeking a problem.
I hope you get your sorted soon.
Good luck,
Peter
I hope you get your sorted soon.
Good luck,
Peter
thanks Peter,
Found a part no on the slave so off to Minispares to try and sort. Thin kits the Metro one as I bough t a new flexi for it. Should have seen it yesterday but 4 bangs on the head in 10 minutes from the bonnet safety catch must have done some damage....forget how low these damn things are.
While I'm on Peter, freed the brakes off but notice there is some play at the wheels. remember this from when I last used the car, would have said it was wheel bearing but they are tight, and the hubs/discs etc were new. Could it be wear on the CV joint face, although not immediately noticible? Then there seems to be a bit of a knock on the steering, could be a rack end, cannot be a track rod end as they were new a couple of years ago. One little rally has taken its tole on the ol' girl.
Found a part no on the slave so off to Minispares to try and sort. Thin kits the Metro one as I bough t a new flexi for it. Should have seen it yesterday but 4 bangs on the head in 10 minutes from the bonnet safety catch must have done some damage....forget how low these damn things are.
While I'm on Peter, freed the brakes off but notice there is some play at the wheels. remember this from when I last used the car, would have said it was wheel bearing but they are tight, and the hubs/discs etc were new. Could it be wear on the CV joint face, although not immediately noticible? Then there seems to be a bit of a knock on the steering, could be a rack end, cannot be a track rod end as they were new a couple of years ago. One little rally has taken its tole on the ol' girl.
It could well be a track rod end. I fitted a new one a year ago to a friend's Mini and it has done 500 miles in the year and the track rod has free-play already (made in China comes to mind!).
If you jack it up you will easily see if the play is in the wheel bearing, the swivel pins or the track-rod end or rack.
If it's the wheel bearing and the hub nut is properly tight, one tip is to remove the spacer between the inner and outer races and lightly linish a bit off to tighten up the setting. I had to do this on a new taper rear set and it works fine. It shouldn't be necessary, of course, but tolerance build-up an cause this sort of problem.
It could even be the rack where the rack tube passes through the outer bush before the rack swivel joint which is inside the rack gaiter. If that bush wears the wheel has free play and you get a firm 'thud' through the floor over bumps. It used to be possible to buy replacement bushes and, with a little difficulty, to fit without removing the rack. Now, however, rack replacement seems to be the norm. My good friend in California has that on his 1963 1071 'S' and he is getting a replacement bush machined out of high-grade acetal co-polymer (a hard plastic) and will fit it without rack removal.
If you jack it up you will easily see if the play is in the wheel bearing, the swivel pins or the track-rod end or rack.
If it's the wheel bearing and the hub nut is properly tight, one tip is to remove the spacer between the inner and outer races and lightly linish a bit off to tighten up the setting. I had to do this on a new taper rear set and it works fine. It shouldn't be necessary, of course, but tolerance build-up an cause this sort of problem.
It could even be the rack where the rack tube passes through the outer bush before the rack swivel joint which is inside the rack gaiter. If that bush wears the wheel has free play and you get a firm 'thud' through the floor over bumps. It used to be possible to buy replacement bushes and, with a little difficulty, to fit without removing the rack. Now, however, rack replacement seems to be the norm. My good friend in California has that on his 1963 1071 'S' and he is getting a replacement bush machined out of high-grade acetal co-polymer (a hard plastic) and will fit it without rack removal.
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