project car questions..

project car questions..

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Discussion

darkcat

Original Poster:

2,344 posts

177 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
Right i have JUST received my project car body, its an old T reg (1979 Mk3)

obviously it has rust, the major bits being:
- driver side "lower rear quarter" just in front of the wheel arch has mostly dissappeared.
- driver side "door step" (on top of the sill, where the door closes) looking very sorry.
- driver side, the bit that the door hinges attach to on the body, nos sure what its called.
(god knows why its so bad on that side??!!)


questions:
- where to get replacement panels from, ive looked at www.hytheperformance.co.uk, their prices look more than reasonable.
- whats the best bit of kit to remove the rusted surface of other parts?
- whats the easiest way to remove the windscreen and rear window? (other than a hammer - i.e no damage)
- the "seams" that stick out from the body (between rear quarter and boot) - how are they constructed? they have rotted down both sides, not deep enough to worry about, but are they folded over or what?

thanks in advance!
Peter

Edited by darkcat on Thursday 29th July 17:31

Fatboy

8,084 posts

279 months

Thursday 29th July 2010
quotequote all
I've found http://www.somerford-mini.co.uk/ very nice to deal with, and very good prices - plus if you call them they're very knowledgeable...

DanGT

753 posts

233 months

Friday 30th July 2010
quotequote all
A good starting point for getting parts is get one of the mini mags. A lot of adds for panels and you can look at the prices.

The rust removel is a hard one. Depending on the finish the part etc, Drill with wire brush, shot blasting, sanding.

The seams on a mini are spot welded. The vertical ones then have metel covers on.

guru_1071

2,768 posts

241 months

Friday 30th July 2010
quotequote all
the windows come out easy

pull the silver filler 'key' out, then get inside and lay down and put your foot in one top corner and push gentley - have someone on the outside to catch the screen as they can sometimes 'pop' out quite fast and surprise you!

if you push with your foot your well out the way if (and its a big if) the screen breaks or cracks.

ive done thousands of screens and never seen a toughend one brack, but have had the odd laminated one crack - if your worried that this may happen you can cut the seal away between the key slot and the glass with a sharp blade, then the screen will come out like a rocket!

once the top corner is out, you can go outside and tug the screen with your hands (wear gloves) if your on your own as its easy to control the rate of escape from the seal this way.

easy!

darkcat

Original Poster:

2,344 posts

177 months

Friday 30th July 2010
quotequote all
DanGT said:
The seams on a mini are spot welded. The vertical ones then have metel covers on.
Ah right, do/should they pop off?

baller11

99 posts

225 months

Friday 30th July 2010
quotequote all
Glass is easy, though I have never used the 'push with your feet' idea.
I always open the door window, push with the palm of my hand in the top corner and get ready to hold the glass with the other hand when it comes out. once the two corners on one side are out the glass will slide sideways away from the end thats still held by the rubber.

All that is after taking the silver strip out obviously smile

guru_1071

2,768 posts

241 months

Friday 30th July 2010
quotequote all
baller

i just have that (unfounded so far!) worry that a screen will break and my hand will go through it!

you have to push them with such force sometimes

beejay

140 posts

205 months

Wednesday 4th August 2010
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I've bought genuine Heritage panels from Mini Spares and most of my non-gen ones from M-Machine (http://www.m-machine.co.uk), both very helpful. I've also used panels made by Hadrian from some local motor factors. Obviously genuine has a price premium but they should fit a little easier. The genuine ones are also usually made from thicker material
I've repaired the same areas you list on mine, the last one I think is the A post if I'm reading it right!

My weapon of choice for surface rust is one of those twisted wire brushes in an angle grinder, appropriate PPE a must unless you like picking bits of wire out of your face smile

When removing screens, if its been in a while the seal can stick slightly. I've found it useful sometimes to run a plastic scraper (or something that won't scratch) under the edge of the seal to make sure it's free of the screen after I've taken the sealing strip out. On the last one I did the seal needed replacing anyway so I just cut the top half away and lifted the screen out smile

The covers over the seam should pop off, they have some little clips underneath that attach them to the seam itself.

darkcat

Original Poster:

2,344 posts

177 months

Friday 6th August 2010
quotequote all
Well got the glass out, was very easy, i just cut the rubbers out!

I have ordered all the bits i need to replace, so this weekend should be fun..!

Does anyone know of an exploded diagram of the a-post area? (internal hinges) as im struggling to figure out how its supposed to be constructed, mine is just a big flakey brown mess!!!!

im sure it will be reasonably obvious when the panels arrive..

annodomini2

6,910 posts

258 months

Friday 6th August 2010
quotequote all
darkcat said:
Well got the glass out, was very easy, i just cut the rubbers out!

I have ordered all the bits i need to replace, so this weekend should be fun..!

Does anyone know of an exploded diagram of the a-post area? (internal hinges) as im struggling to figure out how its supposed to be constructed, mine is just a big flakey brown mess!!!!

im sure it will be reasonably obvious when the panels arrive..
Go to the Downloads section on the somerford mini site (link above), download the panels pdfs there are some images in there

Oh and if it hasn't been suggested, buy a haynes manual.