check clutch clearing
Discussion
All you can do really is to ensure that the ball end on the arm is in good condition together with the plunger, and top and bottom clevis pins on the arm. If it's a pre-verto clutch, make sure the clutch arm to clutch arm stop gap is 0.020" and that the overthrow nuts are well loose.
If the clutch does not fully disengage, ensure that there is no air in the hydraulic system then measure the 'throw' of the top of the arm, i.e. the distance the piston rod moves between no pressure and the pedal right down. This distance should be in the region of 0.52" (that's what mine measured). I had a problem with the clutch not dis-engaging fully on my Inno 1300, despite it working fine before I took the engine out for a refresh and light rebuild. I measured the throw on the Inno, then measured my '64 'S'. The Inno had 0.31" throw and the 'S' had 0.52". I fitted a new genuine cylinder and the Inno was then fine with the same throw as the 'S' +/- a few thou.
Don't do the final adjustments on the overthrow stops until it's all running OK. In fact, you can run without those set at all for a while until it's all settled down so long as the arm stop is always set correctly to 0.020" =/- 0.005".
If the clutch does not fully disengage, ensure that there is no air in the hydraulic system then measure the 'throw' of the top of the arm, i.e. the distance the piston rod moves between no pressure and the pedal right down. This distance should be in the region of 0.52" (that's what mine measured). I had a problem with the clutch not dis-engaging fully on my Inno 1300, despite it working fine before I took the engine out for a refresh and light rebuild. I measured the throw on the Inno, then measured my '64 'S'. The Inno had 0.31" throw and the 'S' had 0.52". I fitted a new genuine cylinder and the Inno was then fine with the same throw as the 'S' +/- a few thou.
Don't do the final adjustments on the overthrow stops until it's all running OK. In fact, you can run without those set at all for a while until it's all settled down so long as the arm stop is always set correctly to 0.020" =/- 0.005".
hi cooperman
have now got the engine back in the car AND STILL THE CLUTCH WONT CLEAR
i checked this by depressing the clutch and watching the drive flanges
they turned when in gear and starter turning the engine
have checked the primary gear end float 002 thou as you suggested and made sure that the clutch plate moves freely on the splines
i note that the pull off spring is under a great deal of tension while clutch is at rest i e the coils are open
i am wondering if the clutch arm is bent as when i put a lever behind the arm clutch starts to clear
as i ams sure you can appreciate that living in spain i dont have the opportunity to get ready advice as you do in the u k
incidentally i have taken a photo of clutch arm and spring while clutch is at rest
could i send this to you
hope you can help
i am TEARING MY HAIR OUT
ANDY
have now got the engine back in the car AND STILL THE CLUTCH WONT CLEAR
i checked this by depressing the clutch and watching the drive flanges
they turned when in gear and starter turning the engine
have checked the primary gear end float 002 thou as you suggested and made sure that the clutch plate moves freely on the splines
i note that the pull off spring is under a great deal of tension while clutch is at rest i e the coils are open
i am wondering if the clutch arm is bent as when i put a lever behind the arm clutch starts to clear
as i ams sure you can appreciate that living in spain i dont have the opportunity to get ready advice as you do in the u k
incidentally i have taken a photo of clutch arm and spring while clutch is at rest
could i send this to you
hope you can help
i am TEARING MY HAIR OUT
ANDY
how far is the clutch arm moving at the slave cyl end,
also measure how far the plunger in the wok moves when the foot peddle is fully depresses,
can we assume you have it bleed properly,
is the slave running out of push / movement.
are you uaing the same flywheels as previously used, or is it a newly fitted item,
carl
also measure how far the plunger in the wok moves when the foot peddle is fully depresses,
can we assume you have it bleed properly,
is the slave running out of push / movement.
are you uaing the same flywheels as previously used, or is it a newly fitted item,
carl
Check the throw of the clutch operating rod. It should be in the region of 0.52". I had exactly the same thing with my Inno 1300 and it appeared that the clutch arm was working corretly, but when I measured the throw it was 0.30". If I hadn't had my Cooper 'S' to measure as a check I would have been none the wiser.
If the throw is OK and all the other clutch arm stop gap is 0.020", then it must be a bent arm or an issue with the plunger ball and socket. If you have the early 'thin' arm it probably is bent, they really are not very strong.
If the throw is OK and all the other clutch arm stop gap is 0.020", then it must be a bent arm or an issue with the plunger ball and socket. If you have the early 'thin' arm it probably is bent, they really are not very strong.
To best measure the 'throw' of the slave cylinder rod you should close the gap at the arm stop to zero to avoid getting a false reading. Then measure the linear travel at the very top of the clutch arm. It should be 0.5" or just over.
If that is OK, and the clevis pins have no play and the over throw stops are undone, then there is definately sufficient travel to disengage the centre plate. Don't forget to re-set the arm stop screw gap to 0.020".
Also don't attempt to re-set the overthrow stops until the clutch is operating correctly. It's unlikely to be the ball on the end of the arm, but that can be a problem if it's worn badly. It may be best to get a brand new later type thicker arm anyway.
If that is OK, and the clevis pins have no play and the over throw stops are undone, then there is definately sufficient travel to disengage the centre plate. Don't forget to re-set the arm stop screw gap to 0.020".
Also don't attempt to re-set the overthrow stops until the clutch is operating correctly. It's unlikely to be the ball on the end of the arm, but that can be a problem if it's worn badly. It may be best to get a brand new later type thicker arm anyway.
Gassing Station | Classic Minis | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff