Discussion
Once the 'lump' is out it is wise to do a precautionary re-build, even if everything is OK. I always change the big end bearings, main bearings and thrust bearings (check the end float), as well as the oil pump (don't forget to prime it with cam-lube), timing chain, etc. Also, always check the gearbox lay-shaft and the diff pin for wear. It's so easy to change them whilst the engine is in bits and the parts are so cheap.
What cam are you fitting. I've got an excellent 2nd hand Kent 286 which I'll take £20 for. It's out of my rally car and has done about 12000 miles from new with oil changed every 800 miles max.
As regards storage, if it's going to be sitting about I would leave the oil in, but drain the water down.
Keep the rocker cover on and cover it all over with a blanket or sheeting. Blank off the carb or injection intake with a piece of absorbant rag and leave the plugs in after spraying a bit of Waxoyl into the bores. Remember, some of the valves stay open and let moisture in if you don't blank off the inlet and exhaust. You could paint the engine that nice original BMC mid-green before re-fitting.
Tip for the Week (which week?):
When re-building a Mini, always use bathroom sealer as a jointing compound between any metal mating faces. For example, put a smear of sealer on all sub-frame mounting faces, on door hinge plates, on seat bracket faces, on fuel tank strap attachment points, underneath roll cage feet, etc.
This will stop completely the ingress of water and thus prevent rusting.
Another thing I do is to regularly remove, one at a time, the bolts attaching the rear sub-frame to the body at the forward end of the rear sub-frame and blowing in lots of Waxoyl under pressure. I then use copper grease on the bolts when re-fitting them.
What cam are you fitting. I've got an excellent 2nd hand Kent 286 which I'll take £20 for. It's out of my rally car and has done about 12000 miles from new with oil changed every 800 miles max.
As regards storage, if it's going to be sitting about I would leave the oil in, but drain the water down.
Keep the rocker cover on and cover it all over with a blanket or sheeting. Blank off the carb or injection intake with a piece of absorbant rag and leave the plugs in after spraying a bit of Waxoyl into the bores. Remember, some of the valves stay open and let moisture in if you don't blank off the inlet and exhaust. You could paint the engine that nice original BMC mid-green before re-fitting.
Tip for the Week (which week?):
When re-building a Mini, always use bathroom sealer as a jointing compound between any metal mating faces. For example, put a smear of sealer on all sub-frame mounting faces, on door hinge plates, on seat bracket faces, on fuel tank strap attachment points, underneath roll cage feet, etc.
This will stop completely the ingress of water and thus prevent rusting.
Another thing I do is to regularly remove, one at a time, the bolts attaching the rear sub-frame to the body at the forward end of the rear sub-frame and blowing in lots of Waxoyl under pressure. I then use copper grease on the bolts when re-fitting them.
I'm going for the 266 cam with the 12G295 head. I hadn't planned doing a major rebuild, just the cam and head for now with vernier timing and a new oil pump and clutch. First time I've done anything like this so I'm a bit nervous about it!
On another topic - I was just thinking about setting off for Brecon last weekend and I thought I'd check the details. Only to realise it was the weekend before.
Note to self: buy a calendar and use it!
On another topic - I was just thinking about setting off for Brecon last weekend and I thought I'd check the details. Only to realise it was the weekend before.
Note to self: buy a calendar and use it! James, You didn't miss much in Brecon. We managed about 30 miles then got stuck with lots of other early numbers on a very snowy hill and ended up pushing lots of cars, my Cooper 'S' included, up the hill. 112 bhp Minis with nothing below 3000 rpm just don't like the snow and ice, even with forest tyres, so we went home early.
A 266 cam with a 295 head will be a very good combination. Give me an email or a phone call if you need any advice or assistance. However if it is all coming to pieces, I would urge you to change the mains, big ends and thrusts.
Peter
A 266 cam with a 295 head will be a very good combination. Give me an email or a phone call if you need any advice or assistance. However if it is all coming to pieces, I would urge you to change the mains, big ends and thrusts.
Peter
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