Goodridge Brake Hoses
Discussion
Hi all, I am currently bleeding the brakes, however i am unable to bleed the front brake disk conversion as it would appear that the goodridge hoses that i am using are incorrect. My reasons for this line of thought is that the recess in the calliper is the same depth as the hose union hence I think the outlet of the hose is grounding out on the base of the calliper recess.
Are there different types of connection? I could file the bottom of the hoses off an nobody would know. The end of the brake hose union is domed rather than flat, however the calliper recess is flat.
Indepth,accurate and scaled diagram
Tom
Are there different types of connection? I could file the bottom of the hoses off an nobody would know. The end of the brake hose union is domed rather than flat, however the calliper recess is flat.
Indepth,accurate and scaled diagram
Tom
The threaded inlet hole on the caliper should be 'flat-bottomed'. In this case the hose fitting should also be square-ended and then a copper washer is used to seal the joint. If a standard copper washer is not thik enough you can either cut a bit off the end of the hose or fit a thicker washer. If cutting a bit off, make sure there is no swarf inside the hose by washing it through with brake & clutch leaner and blowing through with comp air.
tom
the hoses have no affect on your problem.
from looking at your photos it would appear that you have a black band master cylinder - with the warning switch in the side (squinting at your photos!) - these are utter junk and can only be bled with a pressure bleeder - if you pump the pedal the seals tear and knacker the master.
if you have been using a pressure bleeder undo the unions at the master and feel if there is pressure when the pedal is pushed - if there is it may be the vlave on the bulkhead is stuck- you can undo the unions on that and pressure check it as well.
if the master and the bulkhead valve have pressure you should be ok
daft question - you have got the calipers on the right way round - bleed nipple to the top? - its a common mistake that people fit them upside down and the air cannot get out!
the hoses have no affect on your problem.
from looking at your photos it would appear that you have a black band master cylinder - with the warning switch in the side (squinting at your photos!) - these are utter junk and can only be bled with a pressure bleeder - if you pump the pedal the seals tear and knacker the master.
if you have been using a pressure bleeder undo the unions at the master and feel if there is pressure when the pedal is pushed - if there is it may be the vlave on the bulkhead is stuck- you can undo the unions on that and pressure check it as well.
if the master and the bulkhead valve have pressure you should be ok
daft question - you have got the calipers on the right way round - bleed nipple to the top? - its a common mistake that people fit them upside down and the air cannot get out!
guru_1071 said:
tom
the hoses have no affect on your problem.
from looking at your photos it would appear that you have a black band master cylinder - with the warning switch in the side (squinting at your photos!) - these are utter junk and can only be bled with a pressure bleeder - if you pump the pedal the seals tear and knacker the master.
if you have been using a pressure bleeder undo the unions at the master and feel if there is pressure when the pedal is pushed - if there is it may be the vlave on the bulkhead is stuck- you can undo the unions on that and pressure check it as well.
if the master and the bulkhead valve have pressure you should be ok
daft question - you have got the calipers on the right way round - bleed nipple to the top? - its a common mistake that people fit them upside down and the air cannot get out!
Hi Guru, yeah the bleed nipples at are the top of the calliper. Correct its the master cylinder, the one with the warning switch. Its tall and with a plastic float and lid. I am getting fluid all the way down to the hoses though rich. If I disconnect the calliper, fluid pours out! the hoses have no affect on your problem.
from looking at your photos it would appear that you have a black band master cylinder - with the warning switch in the side (squinting at your photos!) - these are utter junk and can only be bled with a pressure bleeder - if you pump the pedal the seals tear and knacker the master.
if you have been using a pressure bleeder undo the unions at the master and feel if there is pressure when the pedal is pushed - if there is it may be the vlave on the bulkhead is stuck- you can undo the unions on that and pressure check it as well.
if the master and the bulkhead valve have pressure you should be ok
daft question - you have got the calipers on the right way round - bleed nipple to the top? - its a common mistake that people fit them upside down and the air cannot get out!
I might try the previosuly suggested copper washer.
To be clear, are we saying that the hose union into the caliper is unsound and leaks slightly, due to the hose 'bottoming' in the caliper hole. If so, the remedy is as posted. Alternatively you can refer to 'Unle Richy's advice and check the master cylinder. I, too, have had problems with that type of cylinder in the past due to seal failure when bleeding and power bleeding is the only safe way to do it. New cylinders of that type are very expensive.
Cooperman said:
To be clear, are we saying that the hose union into the caliper is unsound and leaks slightly, due to the hose 'bottoming' in the caliper hole. If so, the remedy is as posted. Alternatively you can refer to 'Unle Richy's advice and check the master cylinder. I, too, have had problems with that type of cylinder in the past due to seal failure when bleeding and power bleeding is the only safe way to do it. New cylinders of that type are very expensive.
I didn't notice your first post there Pete! I'll see what I can do and get back to you on it. I have'nt inspected the brakes fully just yet, but already have run into a few problems! Lets hoep im not in need of a new Master cyl then!guru_1071 said:
tom
i rebuilt the up/down master on my mayfair and it still didnt work well (and the repair kits 25 quid!)
i just upgraded to the later brake servo type set up - its great, only cost about 80 quid for all the bits
Sigh* Yet more expense. Can't complain though; I'd much rather my brakes worked efficient and well rather than a potential accident. I'll let you know how it all goes. I'm currently servoless..i rebuilt the up/down master on my mayfair and it still didnt work well (and the repair kits 25 quid!)
i just upgraded to the later brake servo type set up - its great, only cost about 80 quid for all the bits
Ps. Was this for the sprint?
guru_1071 said:
tom
i rebuilt the up/down master on my mayfair and it still didnt work well (and the repair kits 25 quid!)
i just upgraded to the later brake servo type set up - its great, only cost about 80 quid for all the bits
I did exatly the same on a 1979 850. The damn thing still wouldn't work after honing and fitting new seals. In the end I reverted to a single-line set-up and a new master cylinder and a servo. That was then fine.i rebuilt the up/down master on my mayfair and it still didnt work well (and the repair kits 25 quid!)
i just upgraded to the later brake servo type set up - its great, only cost about 80 quid for all the bits
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