A couple of tips.
Discussion
Here are a couple of tips which some may find useful:
1. Fitting an LCB and big-bore exhaust system so it stays on.
After installing the lcb make up the exhaust pipe with the silencer boxes in place and make sure the positions are absolutely right for when the 'y-piece' is engaged 1.75" onto the ends of the lcb. Now weld the entire exhaust pipe/silencer boxes to make a one piece unit from 'y-piece' to the end.
Fit the clamps for the 'y-piece' to the lcb pipes with the inner clamp vertical, nut/bolt on top, and the outer clamp horizontal. Engage the exhaust pipe onto the lcb using a bit of grease or copper-slip. Clamp up tight. Now drill and tap 1/4" unf through the clamps and pipes, i.e. at 90 deg to the pipe centre line, and bolt right into the exhaust pipes through using 1/2" long x 1/4" unf hex head bolts with shakeproof washers. This prevents the exhaust from being knocked backwards and off the lcb if you hit a big bump. At the other end of the exhaust pipe, on the forward end of the rear sub-frame, modify the block-type mounting by cutting off the 5/16" stud and drilling right through the entire rubber block, re-fitting a much longer 5/16" unf bolt. Then, even if the block should fail, the pipe won't drop down.
Right at the back use 4 off 'cotton-reel' type mountings, two vertical and two horizontal. The horizontal ones are fitted along the lower flange of the sub-frame about 7" apart and a strip of aluminium or steel is fitted under the pipe and bent to line up with the mountings. This keeps the entire exhaust firmly in place.
2. Clutch changes in situ
Drill two holes in the almost vertical web of the front sub-frame to permit access with a 3/16" sq. drive socket onto the clutch housing bolts. It makes quick clutch changes very easy. The sub-frame is so over-strength in that area that it's no problem.
1. Fitting an LCB and big-bore exhaust system so it stays on.
After installing the lcb make up the exhaust pipe with the silencer boxes in place and make sure the positions are absolutely right for when the 'y-piece' is engaged 1.75" onto the ends of the lcb. Now weld the entire exhaust pipe/silencer boxes to make a one piece unit from 'y-piece' to the end.
Fit the clamps for the 'y-piece' to the lcb pipes with the inner clamp vertical, nut/bolt on top, and the outer clamp horizontal. Engage the exhaust pipe onto the lcb using a bit of grease or copper-slip. Clamp up tight. Now drill and tap 1/4" unf through the clamps and pipes, i.e. at 90 deg to the pipe centre line, and bolt right into the exhaust pipes through using 1/2" long x 1/4" unf hex head bolts with shakeproof washers. This prevents the exhaust from being knocked backwards and off the lcb if you hit a big bump. At the other end of the exhaust pipe, on the forward end of the rear sub-frame, modify the block-type mounting by cutting off the 5/16" stud and drilling right through the entire rubber block, re-fitting a much longer 5/16" unf bolt. Then, even if the block should fail, the pipe won't drop down.
Right at the back use 4 off 'cotton-reel' type mountings, two vertical and two horizontal. The horizontal ones are fitted along the lower flange of the sub-frame about 7" apart and a strip of aluminium or steel is fitted under the pipe and bent to line up with the mountings. This keeps the entire exhaust firmly in place.
2. Clutch changes in situ
Drill two holes in the almost vertical web of the front sub-frame to permit access with a 3/16" sq. drive socket onto the clutch housing bolts. It makes quick clutch changes very easy. The sub-frame is so over-strength in that area that it's no problem.
great bit of thinking. The bolt only projects about 3/16" into the pipes and I don't think that matters.
On my rally cars it's more important not to lose the exhaust as this always entails instant retirement due to the noise regulations. I ain't lost one in years, and certainly not since I've been doing this.
On my rally cars it's more important not to lose the exhaust as this always entails instant retirement due to the noise regulations. I ain't lost one in years, and certainly not since I've been doing this.
This is Cooperman at home, of course.
Yes, but I should have mentioned that when welding the 'y'-piece onto the exhaust pipe make sure that the alignment is absolutely correct with the silencer boxes. It is hard to get the big box to sit well up into the rear sub-frame if you are more than a few degrees out on the 'y'-piece.
On a rally car the need is to ensure that the complete exhaust doesn't get pulled off and having no intermediate clamps, after those clamping the 'y'-piece onto the end of the lcb is the best way to do it. I really do hit mine on the ground very hard at times. I also weld skid plates onto the pipe/boxes at each box to form a 'ramp' rather than have a blunt front to each box. Centre exit pipes are best as well.
You need a decent mig welding kit if you have a Mini!
If anyone wants any more tips let me know and I'll post some. I don't want to bore you all with lots of useless info, but some of it might help.
Yes, but I should have mentioned that when welding the 'y'-piece onto the exhaust pipe make sure that the alignment is absolutely correct with the silencer boxes. It is hard to get the big box to sit well up into the rear sub-frame if you are more than a few degrees out on the 'y'-piece.
On a rally car the need is to ensure that the complete exhaust doesn't get pulled off and having no intermediate clamps, after those clamping the 'y'-piece onto the end of the lcb is the best way to do it. I really do hit mine on the ground very hard at times. I also weld skid plates onto the pipe/boxes at each box to form a 'ramp' rather than have a blunt front to each box. Centre exit pipes are best as well.
You need a decent mig welding kit if you have a Mini!
If anyone wants any more tips let me know and I'll post some. I don't want to bore you all with lots of useless info, but some of it might help.
Here's another one.
To change the rear dampers quickly without draining and removing the petrol tank, or to remove the dampers to make getting the radius arms out easily, cut a rectangular hole in the rear seat vertical bulkhead about 5" x 3" (2 holes for twin-tank cars). Be careful when cutting that you don't hit or drill through the tank, but there is about 1.5" clearance between tank and bulkhead. Drill a 1/2" pilot viw hole first (or email me for accurate dimensions). This will enable you to be sure that you are cutting in the right place. With the hole cut you can get the necessary spanner access to the damper top.
You must, however, cover plate the hole with a piece of aluminium or steel afterwards. Cut the cover plate about 3/4" oversize all around and rivnut or self tap screw the plate in place, using some bath sealer to make sure that the seal is good. If you don't seal properly you can get exhaust fumes in the car.
This saves just so much aggro when changing dampers or rear rad arms and makes the job so quick and easy.
To change the rear dampers quickly without draining and removing the petrol tank, or to remove the dampers to make getting the radius arms out easily, cut a rectangular hole in the rear seat vertical bulkhead about 5" x 3" (2 holes for twin-tank cars). Be careful when cutting that you don't hit or drill through the tank, but there is about 1.5" clearance between tank and bulkhead. Drill a 1/2" pilot viw hole first (or email me for accurate dimensions). This will enable you to be sure that you are cutting in the right place. With the hole cut you can get the necessary spanner access to the damper top.
You must, however, cover plate the hole with a piece of aluminium or steel afterwards. Cut the cover plate about 3/4" oversize all around and rivnut or self tap screw the plate in place, using some bath sealer to make sure that the seal is good. If you don't seal properly you can get exhaust fumes in the car.
This saves just so much aggro when changing dampers or rear rad arms and makes the job so quick and easy.
The LCB one is a good idea and something I’ve done in the past, someone did weld the pipes into the Y piece on my old cooper and that made taking it off a right pain in the arse though, I replaced it once a had the engine out. I found a good trick when refitting engine mounts where I didn’t have access to a welder to make one up with captive nuts is to place a piece of paper in the spanner first then put the nut into the spanner, the paper hold it in place, you can then easily get the nut in the right place without keep dropping it.
Paul V said:
I found a good trick when refitting engine mounts where I didn’t have access to a welder to make one up with captive nuts is to place a piece of paper in the spanner first then put the nut into the spanner, the paper hold it in place, you can then easily get the nut in the right place without keep dropping it.
Good tip - I usually just used blu-tack to hold the spanner on the nut though...
I usually get a thin piece of aluminium sheet about 2" x 1/2" and tape it onto the spanner with it covering one side of the ring. Then I put a bit of thick grease on the nut and 'bingo'.
I also cut away the inner wing panel at the lower edge for about 5" x 3" for provide access to the lower rad mounts and the engine mounts. This makes it very easy to change the engine mountings without removing the engine.
I also cut away the inner wing panel at the lower edge for about 5" x 3" for provide access to the lower rad mounts and the engine mounts. This makes it very easy to change the engine mountings without removing the engine.
Another tip:
If you have an early Mini with a remote type servo - a la Cooper 'S' Mks 1 to 3, use Aeroquip hose for the servo hydraulic pipes.
Then, when you need to remove the engine, or change the clutch in-situ, you don't have to disturb the hydraulic system. You just undo the servo mounting bolts and hang the complete servo unit over the lh wing using a blanket to avoid damage to the paintwork.
How many hours this has saved me over the years I couldn't count.
If you have an early Mini with a remote type servo - a la Cooper 'S' Mks 1 to 3, use Aeroquip hose for the servo hydraulic pipes.
Then, when you need to remove the engine, or change the clutch in-situ, you don't have to disturb the hydraulic system. You just undo the servo mounting bolts and hang the complete servo unit over the lh wing using a blanket to avoid damage to the paintwork.
How many hours this has saved me over the years I couldn't count.
MiniSpares do an equivalent braided hose kit for the late direct mounted servo. Advantages are just the same, you can de-mount the servo and master cylinder without breaking the hydraulics to get to the clutch housing and transfer gear case beneath.
Good tips Coop's, keep them coming !!
Good tips Coop's, keep them coming !!
Having been finally prepping my 64 'S' for next weekend (hope to see you there James) I have a tip regarding sump guards.
When you fit a sump guard and the engine is out, weld the bolts for the front of the guard into the sub-frame, pointing downwards, and weld the nuts at the back of the guard onto the sub-frame. Then fitting becomes much easier, especially as you normally have to take the guard off to change the oil. Then you can remove the sump guard without taking off the spotlights or grille.
Oil coolers:
With later Mins with pre-engaged starters it can be difficult to get a 13-row Mocal oil cooler fitted behind the grille. The cooler fits better if you revert to an inertia type starter and starter ring with a remote solenoid. All you then need to do is to flatten out the flange on the front panel, fit the oil cooler brackets from the standard kit and the cooler goes in easily. However, always make sure that the starter cable is not touching the cooler - a buddy of mine had a problem when the cooler gills wore through the starter cable!!
I always use a 12V sports coil as I have had a problem with the pink coloured resistor wire burning out inside the front wiring loom and melting all the adjacent wires. You just run another wire from the ignition switch direct to the coil and leave the redundant pink wire inside the loom not connected to anything.
Now for the laugh of the day:
A Mini-buddy of mine saw advertised in our local paper "For sale: New Mini-Grille £15". He phoned and got the address, then went round there. On arrival the lady at the house said "Oh, you've come about the Mini Grille. It's brand new and still in its box".
"Yes," said my buddy, "is it an Austin or a Morris?"
"No" said the lady, "it's a Brevill".
That actually happened.
When you fit a sump guard and the engine is out, weld the bolts for the front of the guard into the sub-frame, pointing downwards, and weld the nuts at the back of the guard onto the sub-frame. Then fitting becomes much easier, especially as you normally have to take the guard off to change the oil. Then you can remove the sump guard without taking off the spotlights or grille.
Oil coolers:
With later Mins with pre-engaged starters it can be difficult to get a 13-row Mocal oil cooler fitted behind the grille. The cooler fits better if you revert to an inertia type starter and starter ring with a remote solenoid. All you then need to do is to flatten out the flange on the front panel, fit the oil cooler brackets from the standard kit and the cooler goes in easily. However, always make sure that the starter cable is not touching the cooler - a buddy of mine had a problem when the cooler gills wore through the starter cable!!
I always use a 12V sports coil as I have had a problem with the pink coloured resistor wire burning out inside the front wiring loom and melting all the adjacent wires. You just run another wire from the ignition switch direct to the coil and leave the redundant pink wire inside the loom not connected to anything.
Now for the laugh of the day:
A Mini-buddy of mine saw advertised in our local paper "For sale: New Mini-Grille £15". He phoned and got the address, then went round there. On arrival the lady at the house said "Oh, you've come about the Mini Grille. It's brand new and still in its box".
"Yes," said my buddy, "is it an Austin or a Morris?"
"No" said the lady, "it's a Brevill".
That actually happened.
Cooperman said:
Now for the laugh of the day:
A Mini-buddy of mine saw advertised in our local paper "For sale: New Mini-Grille £15". He phoned and got the address, then went round there. On arrival the lady at the house said "Oh, you've come about the Mini Grille. It's brand new and still in its box".
"Yes," said my buddy, "is it an Austin or a Morris?"
"No" said the lady, "it's a Brevill".
That actually happened.
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