3 Pin Module, Wiring. Which Pins? About to start!
Discussion
Hi all,
Look sharp guys! I'm sure you're more than familiar with my engine build by now. I'm ready to start her for the first time, however, I am unsure which pins to use.
Which pin is to be + and which - earthed? (wires coming from the coil)
PS. Anything to do/check/tips/tricks before & when I start up?
Cheers,
Tom
Look sharp guys! I'm sure you're more than familiar with my engine build by now. I'm ready to start her for the first time, however, I am unsure which pins to use.
Which pin is to be + and which - earthed? (wires coming from the coil)
PS. Anything to do/check/tips/tricks before & when I start up?
Cheers,
Tom
phumy said:
Your fingers are way too clean and uncut to have been anywhere close to an engine rebuild....
That didn't answer my question! That was before work, (I work weekends in a Hospital) they have to be clean.Which wire goes where? OR should I trial and error and potentiall blow the module?
Gotcha
Off out to go get my hands dirty
Edited by Mini_Lund on Monday 8th February 18:44
guru_1071 said:
tom
where is the wire that energises the solonoid on the starter?
i guess it wont crank over???
Hi Rich, You're quite right it wont start. I bridged the 2 posts with a pair of pliers and turned her over for a split second!where is the wire that energises the solonoid on the starter?
i guess it wont crank over???
The way I have it is:
Battery cable >
Wing mounted Solenoid >
Starter motor cable >
First post on piggy back solenoid >
Link wire (red)+ from first positive post to the small male connection on the solenoid >
3/8 male connection is then earthed at the starter bolt.
Macro of Solenoid:
Earthed Here:
How do you suggest I re-wire it Rich? The more I look at and test it with the multimeter the more confused I get! The 3/8 spade connection earths out, so I presume that it is an earth?
Edited by Mini_Lund on Tuesday 9th February 19:23
tom
heres a picture of mine.
all the wires go to the same terminal bar the wire that energises the solonoid. That goes to the larger spade terminal. the smaller spade terminal is a red herring, it doesnt do anything.
you dont need to earth the starter at all, it earths its self through the bolts mounting it
my car doesnt use the solonoid on the inner wing, so all the wires have to go to the starter, if your using the wing mounted solonoid and extending the wires, you would only have to attach the lead from the starter to the same side as the other wires on the original solonoid (so nothing is attached to the other side) and extending just the energiser wire to the solonoid on the starter - this keeps it tidy and saves having to extend the thicker wires. the solonoid on the wing then just becomes a sort of bus bar and dfoenst actually play any part in starting the car.
hope this helps!
it should be going by this afternoon..........
it looks like you have bolted the battery power lead to the correct big teminal, but have attached the rest of the permenant live wires (on the large spade terminal) thats actually the energiser input for the solonoid. the red wire you have attached to the smaller spade does nothing.
i cant even see where you have attached the energiser wire??????
heres a picture of mine.
all the wires go to the same terminal bar the wire that energises the solonoid. That goes to the larger spade terminal. the smaller spade terminal is a red herring, it doesnt do anything.
you dont need to earth the starter at all, it earths its self through the bolts mounting it
my car doesnt use the solonoid on the inner wing, so all the wires have to go to the starter, if your using the wing mounted solonoid and extending the wires, you would only have to attach the lead from the starter to the same side as the other wires on the original solonoid (so nothing is attached to the other side) and extending just the energiser wire to the solonoid on the starter - this keeps it tidy and saves having to extend the thicker wires. the solonoid on the wing then just becomes a sort of bus bar and dfoenst actually play any part in starting the car.
hope this helps!
it should be going by this afternoon..........
it looks like you have bolted the battery power lead to the correct big teminal, but have attached the rest of the permenant live wires (on the large spade terminal) thats actually the energiser input for the solonoid. the red wire you have attached to the smaller spade does nothing.
i cant even see where you have attached the energiser wire??????
Edited by guru_1071 on Wednesday 10th February 10:47
Back in a few mins will re-edit this when I'm back. Wish me luck! 
Turning over, but oil pressure gauge isn't reading - When should it read?
Back in now, battery was flat: Typical! I'm getting a good spark and fuel and she back fired. Here was my attempt at a first start:
http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/tomlund7/?ac...
Cheers Rich
Turning over, but oil pressure gauge isn't reading - When should it read?
Back in now, battery was flat: Typical!
I'm getting a good spark and fuel and she back fired. Here was my attempt at a first start:http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/tomlund7/?ac...
Cheers Rich
Edited by Mini_Lund on Wednesday 10th February 19:14
tom
with the plugs out and the engine spinning it should come up within a couple of minutes on a new engine - any longer than that id be looking at backfilling it and all that messing.
once it has pressure it should come up straight away the next time you try.
if its back firing id guess that the dizzy is timed in wrong - those electronic dizzys have the plug leads in a sort of diamond shape, so number one and four are on a horizontal plane to each other and number two is right at the top (where the old type tend to have one and two on the horizontal).
sometimes you have to mess and move the dizzy drive a tooth and then move the plug leads round one hole to get the advance you need - on my sprint it took a bit of messing as the black box on the side hit the oil pressure t piece.
with the plugs out and the engine spinning it should come up within a couple of minutes on a new engine - any longer than that id be looking at backfilling it and all that messing.
once it has pressure it should come up straight away the next time you try.
if its back firing id guess that the dizzy is timed in wrong - those electronic dizzys have the plug leads in a sort of diamond shape, so number one and four are on a horizontal plane to each other and number two is right at the top (where the old type tend to have one and two on the horizontal).
sometimes you have to mess and move the dizzy drive a tooth and then move the plug leads round one hole to get the advance you need - on my sprint it took a bit of messing as the black box on the side hit the oil pressure t piece.
guru_1071 said:
tom
with the plugs out and the engine spinning it should come up within a couple of minutes on a new engine - any longer than that id be looking at backfilling it and all that messing.
once it has pressure it should come up straight away the next time you try.
if its back firing id guess that the dizzy is timed in wrong - those electronic dizzys have the plug leads in a sort of diamond shape, so number one and four are on a horizontal plane to each other and number two is right at the top (where the old type tend to have one and two on the horizontal).
sometimes you have to mess and move the dizzy drive a tooth and then move the plug leads round one hole to get the advance you need - on my sprint it took a bit of messing as the black box on the side hit the oil pressure t piece.
I had the plugs out and engine spinning a fair bit before the battery ran flat (probably a combination of standing cold, and many attempts at turning her over). I suspect the distributer timing is incorrect, I'll have a play tomorrow see what I can come up with. I have taken note of the position of the module in your pic and will position my dissy the same?with the plugs out and the engine spinning it should come up within a couple of minutes on a new engine - any longer than that id be looking at backfilling it and all that messing.
once it has pressure it should come up straight away the next time you try.
if its back firing id guess that the dizzy is timed in wrong - those electronic dizzys have the plug leads in a sort of diamond shape, so number one and four are on a horizontal plane to each other and number two is right at the top (where the old type tend to have one and two on the horizontal).
sometimes you have to mess and move the dizzy drive a tooth and then move the plug leads round one hole to get the advance you need - on my sprint it took a bit of messing as the black box on the side hit the oil pressure t piece.
If I roll it in 1st gear to TDC, get the rotor pointing at number 1 piston ten set an advance like yours, will it make a difference if its at TDC or not?
I have the oil gauge plumbed in using that oil gauage braided hose, however I took the gauge off the end to see if any oil spirted out. It was bone dry, nothing. Is there anyway of determining whether the engine is picking up oil or not? - I'll check the banjo bolt see if I have lined it up properly.
ETA: Keep checking this regularly I feel I may be posting here quite a fair bit! Many thanks.
Edited by Mini_Lund on Wednesday 10th February 21:51
tom
if there is no oil pressure dont even try to get it running under its own steam.
you need to fill the oil filter by hand (before fitting it), then remove the bolt that holds the oil feed pipe between the filter housing and the block and pour oil in there as you rotate the engine - you will see that the pump sucks it into the engine. once its sucked a pint or so in you can assume the pump is primed.
then remove the oil gauge pipe and spin the motor, oil should appear out this hole (in goodly squirts, so have a cloth ready!), if it does reattach the pipe and bleed it at the gauge end if required.
once and only once that the oil light goes out (if fitted) and good pressure is showing on the gauge should you attempt to start it. (and before you do, let the car settle for ten minutes and spin it again to see pressure - then put the plugs in and spin it again to make sure - then and only then attach the wires to the coil and go for start.
if theres no oil pressure after the above then there is a fair chance that something is wrong - missing o ring between engine and block, damaged oil pump gasket etc etc. (or even faulty gauge, though normally you can hear the engine 'pressure up' as it gets oil into it)
starting the engine with no pressure will knock the bearings, cam and cam followers out in no time and will undo all your hard work in the blink of an eye!
banging back suggests that the dizzy is timed in 180 out and its firing on the wrong cycle - you can swop the leads about to check this quickly, but really you need to take the rocker box off and see which pair of valves are rocking at tdc when the rotor arm is pointing towards number one cylinder.
i dont want to dampen your spirts, but if you have been cranking it all day with no pressure then id be inclinded to think that its got to come back out..............
if there is no oil pressure dont even try to get it running under its own steam.
you need to fill the oil filter by hand (before fitting it), then remove the bolt that holds the oil feed pipe between the filter housing and the block and pour oil in there as you rotate the engine - you will see that the pump sucks it into the engine. once its sucked a pint or so in you can assume the pump is primed.
then remove the oil gauge pipe and spin the motor, oil should appear out this hole (in goodly squirts, so have a cloth ready!), if it does reattach the pipe and bleed it at the gauge end if required.
once and only once that the oil light goes out (if fitted) and good pressure is showing on the gauge should you attempt to start it. (and before you do, let the car settle for ten minutes and spin it again to see pressure - then put the plugs in and spin it again to make sure - then and only then attach the wires to the coil and go for start.
if theres no oil pressure after the above then there is a fair chance that something is wrong - missing o ring between engine and block, damaged oil pump gasket etc etc. (or even faulty gauge, though normally you can hear the engine 'pressure up' as it gets oil into it)
starting the engine with no pressure will knock the bearings, cam and cam followers out in no time and will undo all your hard work in the blink of an eye!
banging back suggests that the dizzy is timed in 180 out and its firing on the wrong cycle - you can swop the leads about to check this quickly, but really you need to take the rocker box off and see which pair of valves are rocking at tdc when the rotor arm is pointing towards number one cylinder.
i dont want to dampen your spirts, but if you have been cranking it all day with no pressure then id be inclinded to think that its got to come back out..............
guru_1071 said:
tom
if there is no oil pressure dont even try to get it running under its own steam.
you need to fill the oil filter by hand (before fitting it), then remove the bolt that holds the oil feed pipe between the filter housing and the block and pour oil in there as you rotate the engine - you will see that the pump sucks it into the engine. once its sucked a pint or so in you can assume the pump is primed.
then remove the oil gauge pipe and spin the motor, oil should appear out this hole (in goodly squirts, so have a cloth ready!), if it does reattach the pipe and bleed it at the gauge end if required.
once and only once that the oil light goes out (if fitted) and good pressure is showing on the gauge should you attempt to start it. (and before you do, let the car settle for ten minutes and spin it again to see pressure - then put the plugs in and spin it again to make sure - then and only then attach the wires to the coil and go for start.
if theres no oil pressure after the above then there is a fair chance that something is wrong - missing o ring between engine and block, damaged oil pump gasket etc etc. (or even faulty gauge, though normally you can hear the engine 'pressure up' as it gets oil into it)
starting the engine with no pressure will knock the bearings, cam and cam followers out in no time and will undo all your hard work in the blink of an eye!
banging back suggests that the dizzy is timed in 180 out and its firing on the wrong cycle - you can swop the leads about to check this quickly, but really you need to take the rocker box off and see which pair of valves are rocking at tdc when the rotor arm is pointing towards number one cylinder.
i dont want to dampen your spirts, but if you have been cranking it all day with no pressure then id be inclinded to think that its got to come back out..............
Hi Rich. if there is no oil pressure dont even try to get it running under its own steam.
you need to fill the oil filter by hand (before fitting it), then remove the bolt that holds the oil feed pipe between the filter housing and the block and pour oil in there as you rotate the engine - you will see that the pump sucks it into the engine. once its sucked a pint or so in you can assume the pump is primed.
then remove the oil gauge pipe and spin the motor, oil should appear out this hole (in goodly squirts, so have a cloth ready!), if it does reattach the pipe and bleed it at the gauge end if required.
once and only once that the oil light goes out (if fitted) and good pressure is showing on the gauge should you attempt to start it. (and before you do, let the car settle for ten minutes and spin it again to see pressure - then put the plugs in and spin it again to make sure - then and only then attach the wires to the coil and go for start.
if theres no oil pressure after the above then there is a fair chance that something is wrong - missing o ring between engine and block, damaged oil pump gasket etc etc. (or even faulty gauge, though normally you can hear the engine 'pressure up' as it gets oil into it)
starting the engine with no pressure will knock the bearings, cam and cam followers out in no time and will undo all your hard work in the blink of an eye!
banging back suggests that the dizzy is timed in 180 out and its firing on the wrong cycle - you can swop the leads about to check this quickly, but really you need to take the rocker box off and see which pair of valves are rocking at tdc when the rotor arm is pointing towards number one cylinder.
i dont want to dampen your spirts, but if you have been cranking it all day with no pressure then id be inclinded to think that its got to come back out..............
I removed the oil banjo pipe and filter housing, the filter is full of oil but it isn't going round the system, the rest of the pipework is bone dry. My major problem at the moment is that I don't have enough battery power to get her cranking over well enough. I put the battery on charge all last night and took it off charge at about 6pm today. Still not enough to get it cranking fast even with the plugs out. The dizzy is most likely 180 out, as it gave one hell of a loud bang before.
Orange oil light remains lit. I'll have to have a go at backfilling it to prime the pump, just need enough power. Can I link batterys together?
- Saying that I'll wack it in reverse and suck it in that way by pushing that car.
My spirits are dampened enough!
Thank you.
Edited by Mini_Lund on Thursday 11th February 20:10
tom
did you fill the filter yourself before you fitted it, or has the pump managed to drag some oil into it?
if the oil pipe is bone dry it points to the pump probably been air locked or a air leak (only place can be missing o ring / damaged oil pump gasket or poorly fitting pick up pipe.
back filling the pump and rotating the engine will tell you if the pump is rotating as you will be able to see the oil gulping as the pump gets hold of it.
trying to push the car is a waste of time - you would have to push it miles to manually pump oil around a new engine!!!!
if the battery is struggling to crank the motor it may be that the motor is too tight?, if the battery has been on charge all day it should be man enough to spin a motor with no plugs in easy. i wouldnt try doubleing batterys as the risk of shorts is possible in haste - better to leave it on charge tonight and have a go tomorrow!!!!
from experience id say that if you have spent more than 10-15 min cranking the motor already with no pressure showing and the pipes still dry then its probable that its getting to the point where you need to start worrying that damage may occur due to lack of oil on bearing surfaces etc - ive only ever had one engine do this, it started and ran for less than 5 min and ran a bearing - i was young and convinced that by letting it start and run that oil pressure would magically appear - it didnt!
if i where you id follow my back filling method detailed above, but if that fails id take it out and strip it - the worry will always be 'what-if' if you dont.
also, pm pete cooperman - he may be able to offer good advice as he is doing a lot of engines, but with a heavy heart i suspect he will offer up the same dish as me.......
did you fill the filter yourself before you fitted it, or has the pump managed to drag some oil into it?
if the oil pipe is bone dry it points to the pump probably been air locked or a air leak (only place can be missing o ring / damaged oil pump gasket or poorly fitting pick up pipe.
back filling the pump and rotating the engine will tell you if the pump is rotating as you will be able to see the oil gulping as the pump gets hold of it.
trying to push the car is a waste of time - you would have to push it miles to manually pump oil around a new engine!!!!
if the battery is struggling to crank the motor it may be that the motor is too tight?, if the battery has been on charge all day it should be man enough to spin a motor with no plugs in easy. i wouldnt try doubleing batterys as the risk of shorts is possible in haste - better to leave it on charge tonight and have a go tomorrow!!!!
from experience id say that if you have spent more than 10-15 min cranking the motor already with no pressure showing and the pipes still dry then its probable that its getting to the point where you need to start worrying that damage may occur due to lack of oil on bearing surfaces etc - ive only ever had one engine do this, it started and ran for less than 5 min and ran a bearing - i was young and convinced that by letting it start and run that oil pressure would magically appear - it didnt!
if i where you id follow my back filling method detailed above, but if that fails id take it out and strip it - the worry will always be 'what-if' if you dont.
also, pm pete cooperman - he may be able to offer good advice as he is doing a lot of engines, but with a heavy heart i suspect he will offer up the same dish as me.......
guru_1071 said:
tom
did you fill the filter yourself before you fitted it, or has the pump managed to drag some oil into it?
if the oil pipe is bone dry it points to the pump probably been air locked or a air leak (only place can be missing o ring / damaged oil pump gasket or poorly fitting pick up pipe.
back filling the pump and rotating the engine will tell you if the pump is rotating as you will be able to see the oil gulping as the pump gets hold of it.
trying to push the car is a waste of time - you would have to push it miles to manually pump oil around a new engine!!!!
if the battery is struggling to crank the motor it may be that the motor is too tight?, if the battery has been on charge all day it should be man enough to spin a motor with no plugs in easy. i wouldnt try doubleing batterys as the risk of shorts is possible in haste - better to leave it on charge tonight and have a go tomorrow!!!!
from experience id say that if you have spent more than 10-15 min cranking the motor already with no pressure showing and the pipes still dry then its probable that its getting to the point where you need to start worrying that damage may occur due to lack of oil on bearing surfaces etc - ive only ever had one engine do this, it started and ran for less than 5 min and ran a bearing - i was young and convinced that by letting it start and run that oil pressure would magically appear - it didnt!
if i where you id follow my back filling method detailed above, but if that fails id take it out and strip it - the worry will always be 'what-if' if you dont.
also, pm pete cooperman - he may be able to offer good advice as he is doing a lot of engines, but with a heavy heart i suspect he will offer up the same dish as me.......
Hi Rich,did you fill the filter yourself before you fitted it, or has the pump managed to drag some oil into it?
if the oil pipe is bone dry it points to the pump probably been air locked or a air leak (only place can be missing o ring / damaged oil pump gasket or poorly fitting pick up pipe.
back filling the pump and rotating the engine will tell you if the pump is rotating as you will be able to see the oil gulping as the pump gets hold of it.
trying to push the car is a waste of time - you would have to push it miles to manually pump oil around a new engine!!!!
if the battery is struggling to crank the motor it may be that the motor is too tight?, if the battery has been on charge all day it should be man enough to spin a motor with no plugs in easy. i wouldnt try doubleing batterys as the risk of shorts is possible in haste - better to leave it on charge tonight and have a go tomorrow!!!!
from experience id say that if you have spent more than 10-15 min cranking the motor already with no pressure showing and the pipes still dry then its probable that its getting to the point where you need to start worrying that damage may occur due to lack of oil on bearing surfaces etc - ive only ever had one engine do this, it started and ran for less than 5 min and ran a bearing - i was young and convinced that by letting it start and run that oil pressure would magically appear - it didnt!
if i where you id follow my back filling method detailed above, but if that fails id take it out and strip it - the worry will always be 'what-if' if you dont.
also, pm pete cooperman - he may be able to offer good advice as he is doing a lot of engines, but with a heavy heart i suspect he will offer up the same dish as me.......
I had filled the filter before hand (its still full). I can assure you that the small O-ring is in place between the box and block.
I'm hoping to use the battery off the Saxo to crank her over as its a good battery!. Unfortunately the Land Rover battery is dead as a dodo and not upto the job. I'll leave the mini battery on charge for another night tonight.
Saying that, I have only cranked the engine in quick successions so far. I have loosened the distributer and roughly set the timing, number 2 at the top as you described. I'll try that back-filling using the method you described. I spoke to one of the racers in clubminiclassics, whom has had to back fill all of his engine builds. It's quite normal apparently.
I'll let you know how I get on. I can't thank you enough Rich, I have come this far and I'm not about to scrap the engine at this crucial stage!
Ps. Peter, you say? What does he know!
- I'll give him an email at some stage. ThanksETA: What If I jack the front wheels up and spin the wheels manually in reverse gear, engine off. That way I should see the oil gulp as the pump draws it in? I'm too scared to crank her over under power now.
Edited by Mini_Lund on Friday 12th February 19:43
I back fill my oil pump using one of those oil cans where you pump a little leaver and the oil comes out the nozzle under pressure. Put the car in gear and rock it backwards and forwards as you "oil inject". The nozzle is just the right "fit" to get a good seal in the hole. The first time I did this was on a brand new Swiftune motor, and surprisingly, if I did not use the car for a couple of weeks, I always had to reprime the engine to get oil pressure! Finally I got fed up with doing this and rebuilt the engine with new gaskets and O rings which cured the problem, which goes to prove that even the best engine builders can sometimes not get things quite right!. Incidentally I have also noticed that the TIM oil pressure gauges seem to have quite a slow response to changes in pressure when compared to the Smiths gauges and require more cranking time to register the correct pressure. Any one else noticed this?
tom
grmikes method with the oil can is a good idea.
id not say that 'having to back fill engines is common' as its not something ive had to do for about 15 years and many many engine rebuilds.............
i think your mistake is probably that you didnt prime the pump when you fitted it?, if the pump is bone dry it will never get a chance of sucking oil
you will probably find it difficult to jack the car up and rotate one wheel, probably best to take the plugs out and try and push the car in reverse the length of your drive.
whatever you do (and ive noticed 'advice' that people have given you on other forums), dont be tempted to start the car with no oil in the hope that 'the engine has to be running for oil pressure to appear' its not going to happen. if the engine is incapable of getting oil pressure with no plugs in it and the starter cranking it, then running it will only damage it, sure, oil pressure may appear, but will suggest that there is a problem thats not going to get any better
if your really desperate, you could try towing it up the street with the plugs out and in second gear, just so that the engine is rotating with no load on it - that way it will behave as if your cranking it with the starter and not run a risk of damage, again though, if you tow it more than a mile or so and oil pressure doesnt appear i would accept that there is a problem internally with it.
grmikes method with the oil can is a good idea.
id not say that 'having to back fill engines is common' as its not something ive had to do for about 15 years and many many engine rebuilds.............
i think your mistake is probably that you didnt prime the pump when you fitted it?, if the pump is bone dry it will never get a chance of sucking oil
you will probably find it difficult to jack the car up and rotate one wheel, probably best to take the plugs out and try and push the car in reverse the length of your drive.
whatever you do (and ive noticed 'advice' that people have given you on other forums), dont be tempted to start the car with no oil in the hope that 'the engine has to be running for oil pressure to appear' its not going to happen. if the engine is incapable of getting oil pressure with no plugs in it and the starter cranking it, then running it will only damage it, sure, oil pressure may appear, but will suggest that there is a problem thats not going to get any better
if your really desperate, you could try towing it up the street with the plugs out and in second gear, just so that the engine is rotating with no load on it - that way it will behave as if your cranking it with the starter and not run a risk of damage, again though, if you tow it more than a mile or so and oil pressure doesnt appear i would accept that there is a problem internally with it.
guru_1071 said:
tom
grmikes method with the oil can is a good idea.
id not say that 'having to back fill engines is common' as its not something ive had to do for about 15 years and many many engine rebuilds.............
i think your mistake is probably that you didnt prime the pump when you fitted it?, if the pump is bone dry it will never get a chance of sucking oil
you will probably find it difficult to jack the car up and rotate one wheel, probably best to take the plugs out and try and push the car in reverse the length of your drive.
whatever you do (and ive noticed 'advice' that people have given you on other forums), dont be tempted to start the car with no oil in the hope that 'the engine has to be running for oil pressure to appear' its not going to happen. if the engine is incapable of getting oil pressure with no plugs in it and the starter cranking it, then running it will only damage it, sure, oil pressure may appear, but will suggest that there is a problem thats not going to get any better
if your really desperate, you could try towing it up the street with the plugs out and in second gear, just so that the engine is rotating with no load on it - that way it will behave as if your cranking it with the starter and not run a risk of damage, again though, if you tow it more than a mile or so and oil pressure doesnt appear i would accept that there is a problem internally with it.
Guru, she took another litre of oil and a good spin and still no pressure. Going to attempt to tow it at some stage, but think I'm going to buy myself a 'daily hack' for the time being.grmikes method with the oil can is a good idea.
id not say that 'having to back fill engines is common' as its not something ive had to do for about 15 years and many many engine rebuilds.............
i think your mistake is probably that you didnt prime the pump when you fitted it?, if the pump is bone dry it will never get a chance of sucking oil
you will probably find it difficult to jack the car up and rotate one wheel, probably best to take the plugs out and try and push the car in reverse the length of your drive.
whatever you do (and ive noticed 'advice' that people have given you on other forums), dont be tempted to start the car with no oil in the hope that 'the engine has to be running for oil pressure to appear' its not going to happen. if the engine is incapable of getting oil pressure with no plugs in it and the starter cranking it, then running it will only damage it, sure, oil pressure may appear, but will suggest that there is a problem thats not going to get any better
if your really desperate, you could try towing it up the street with the plugs out and in second gear, just so that the engine is rotating with no load on it - that way it will behave as if your cranking it with the starter and not run a risk of damage, again though, if you tow it more than a mile or so and oil pressure doesnt appear i would accept that there is a problem internally with it.
Cheers
tom
a litre of oil would have been enough to fill the pump and the tube all the way to the sump.
there must be something wrong with it.
if you move the banjo out the way and get someone to crank it as you hold your thumb over the hole in the block where the banjo goes you should be able to feel pressure - id guess you would even be able to hear the pump turning and thrashing the oil.
it doesnt look good, i'll be honest about it!
a litre of oil would have been enough to fill the pump and the tube all the way to the sump.
there must be something wrong with it.
if you move the banjo out the way and get someone to crank it as you hold your thumb over the hole in the block where the banjo goes you should be able to feel pressure - id guess you would even be able to hear the pump turning and thrashing the oil.
it doesnt look good, i'll be honest about it!
cooperman (peter) told me to but the car in gear and push the car back when feeding oil in where the banjo fits and if this did not work (it did not) then remove the oil pressure valve and remove the spring and slider and put oil in there but it back together then try cranking the engine with out the plugs this worked also was told to warm the oil hope this helps and works david
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