Hub Nut (Driveshaft) Torque setting

Hub Nut (Driveshaft) Torque setting

Author
Discussion

Mini_Lund

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

217 months

Tuesday 2nd February 2010
quotequote all
Hi all,

What setting do I torque the hub nut upto? In the haynes it states:

'All models except Cooper S and 1275GT 83Nm'
'Cooper S and 1275 GT 207Nm'

There is a huge difference between these figures, why so? The reason for asking is that I have recently changed from front drum brakes to Cooper S disks. Do I therefore, refer to the Cooper S setting of 207Nm?

Essentially I have a Cooper 'S' setup on non-GT driveshafts.

Tom

fastcarl

254 posts

227 months

Tuesday 2nd February 2010
quotequote all
200lbs ft in old money,or a good old jump on the breaker bar.


carl

Mini_Lund

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

217 months

Tuesday 2nd February 2010
quotequote all
fastcarl said:
200lbs ft in old money,or a good old jump on the breaker bar.


carl
Thats 200lb ft is 270Nm - Much more than anything stated in the book, even for S & GT spec. Whats your reasoning for this figure?

Cheers.

ETA: Just sent you an email Carl.



Edited by Mini_Lund on Tuesday 2nd February 23:44

phumy

5,743 posts

244 months

Wednesday 3rd February 2010
quotequote all
207Nm is equiv to 152lb/ft....

Cooperman

4,428 posts

257 months

Wednesday 3rd February 2010
quotequote all
I go to 130 lb.ft and then to the next slot to line up for the split pin. It seems to work. Be aware that as the car 'beds-in' the torque should be checked.
It's a good idea to use a big flat asher instead of the cone washer first, do it all up to 130 to 140 lb. ft, then undo it, fit the cone washer and do it up again. That way you know the bearing is seated properly.

Mini_Lund

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

217 months

Wednesday 3rd February 2010
quotequote all
Cooperman said:
I go to 130 lb.ft and then to the next slot to line up for the split pin. It seems to work. Be aware that as the car 'beds-in' the torque should be checked.
It's a good idea to use a big flat asher instead of the cone washer first, do it all up to 130 to 140 lb. ft, then undo it, fit the cone washer and do it up again. That way you know the bearing is seated properly.
Cheers Peter, I'll give that a go 176Nm it is and then I'll pop that pin in. The coned washers sit nicely, on the bearings. As I'm bedding the engine in I'll be sure to re-check all torqued steering and suspenion components.

Mini_Lund

Original Poster:

1,743 posts

217 months

Saturday 23rd April 2011
quotequote all
Hi guys,

Just had a look for this thread and thought I'd resurrect it as my nearside wheel bearing has alot of play, as in, I can literally wobble the disc! I remember this side not torquing up properly when I first built up all the hub and drive shafts as the hub nut isn't cross drilled (which I reckon should all be). I managed to buy myself a NOS AP Lockhead tapered wheel bearing for £20 though! Anyway, it passed the MOT, but it really shouldn't have! hehe So thats my job for the bank holiday, and lesson learnt for ignorance and not dismantling and rebuilding the hub when I should have!

Hope you are all well,

Cheers

danwebster

503 posts

241 months

Thursday 28th April 2011
quotequote all
Mini_Lund said:
Thats 200lb ft is 270Nm - Much more than anything stated in the book, even for S & GT spec. Whats your reasoning for this figure?

Cheers.

ETA: Just sent you an email Carl.



Edited by Mini_Lund on Tuesday 2nd February 23:44
Hundreds of years of experience. 150lb minimum and then round to the next flat...

Hows tricks Carl?