Discussion
vodkakid said:
Hi i have a weber downdraft on a 1293 stage 2 engine. Im looking to tune the car a bit more with a better head and maybe some other bits. I was wondering if i should change the carb because of the tuning limits of the downdraft and if so what to?
details man!!! Details! nothing can be answered without the aforementioned....I'd put it on SU's (1.5's) which will give you a bit of scope to play with the cam/head more, before you jump into hacking your dash up for a sidedraught.
1.5's will do most stuff, until you're looking at bigger capacities and really nth degree tuning. IMO.
That's what I reckon. Get a manifold and then build your own set out of Riley 1.5 carbs or similar.....if you're on a budget.
1.5's will do most stuff, until you're looking at bigger capacities and really nth degree tuning. IMO.
That's what I reckon. Get a manifold and then build your own set out of Riley 1.5 carbs or similar.....if you're on a budget.
Hi, I don't really want to cut the bulkhead so i think a weber sidedraft is out. As far as i know the engine is a 1293 minisport kit, with the weber. The other details I do not know. I did have it rolling roaded along time ago and it had 84bhp(97mph top speed). It's having a rebuild soon and fancied changing the head for a morspeed st3 item, maybe a cam and carbs too.
Im after a constant increase in power. Don't want to lose top end speed. Sorry if this doesn't make much sense bit of a numpty hense my question. What other details would you need?
Thanks for any help.. Budget is approx 2k including rebuild.
Im after a constant increase in power. Don't want to lose top end speed. Sorry if this doesn't make much sense bit of a numpty hense my question. What other details would you need?
Thanks for any help.. Budget is approx 2k including rebuild.
Edited by vodkakid on Monday 1st February 20:17
vodkakid said:
Hi, I don't really want to cut the bulkhead so i think a weber sidedraft is out. As far as i know the engine is a 1293 minisport kit, with the weber. The other details I do not know. I did have it rolling roaded along time ago and it had 84bhp(97mph top speed). It's having a rebuild soon and fancied changing the head for a morspeed st3 item, maybe a cam and carbs too.
Im after a constant increase in power. Don't want to lose top end speed. Sorry if this doesn't make much sense bit of a numpty hense my question. What other details would you need?
Thanks for any help.. Budget is approx 2k including rebuild.
Budget is £2k. How about a supercharger sucking through a 1/3/4" SU?Im after a constant increase in power. Don't want to lose top end speed. Sorry if this doesn't make much sense bit of a numpty hense my question. What other details would you need?
Thanks for any help.. Budget is approx 2k including rebuild.
You have 2 (cheapish) choices. Either a Toyota SC14 whiny but compact blower or a BMW mini one. It would be doable and offer a lot of power everywhere. If you start camming/porting an 84hp 1293 more, you're going to start losing the bottom end and then you'll want closer gears.....and everything will get more highly strung.
A supercharger will make a 1300 feel like a 1800. You have the added bonus that the positive pressure also reduces oil consumption/smoke. If you stick with a relatively sensible camshaft, it'll be fine on the helical (spread) gears. If you have an A+ gearbox with far apart ratios, the welly and spread of power will give you a good pull in all gears and maybe, would even pull a taller final drive.
I'd go for a blower. Plenty of ways of doing it on turbominis.co.uk
I did some work on a Sprite with a Shorrock blower a while back and that has always been regarded as the traditional blower for an A-series.
I also rebuilt an engine for a Turbo Mini which had been incorretly built by a so-called 'expert' and it blew up after 4 miles from intial stert-up. I found that the geometrical compression ratio wa 10.3:1 which gave almost 15:1 at 7 psi boost, and all with ordinary Hepolite pistons and the distributor was a standard one which gave too much advance too soon.
It had to be rebuilt with Omega pistons and a geometric CR of 8:1 plus a specially curved Aldon dizzy. The combustion chambers had to be enlarged by about 2.5 cc each. I had a turbo expert set the max boost to 6.5 psi and supply a document confirming that he had done this.
It doesn't half go now!
I also rebuilt an engine for a Turbo Mini which had been incorretly built by a so-called 'expert' and it blew up after 4 miles from intial stert-up. I found that the geometrical compression ratio wa 10.3:1 which gave almost 15:1 at 7 psi boost, and all with ordinary Hepolite pistons and the distributor was a standard one which gave too much advance too soon.
It had to be rebuilt with Omega pistons and a geometric CR of 8:1 plus a specially curved Aldon dizzy. The combustion chambers had to be enlarged by about 2.5 cc each. I had a turbo expert set the max boost to 6.5 psi and supply a document confirming that he had done this.
It doesn't half go now!
Cooperman said:
I did some work on a Sprite with a Shorrock blower a while back and that has always been regarded as the traditional blower for an A-series.
I also rebuilt an engine for a Turbo Mini which had been incorretly built by a so-called 'expert' and it blew up after 4 miles from intial stert-up. I found that the geometrical compression ratio wa 10.3:1 which gave almost 15:1 at 7 psi boost, and all with ordinary Hepolite pistons and the distributor was a standard one which gave too much advance too soon.
It had to be rebuilt with Omega pistons and a geometric CR of 8:1 plus a specially curved Aldon dizzy. The combustion chambers had to be enlarged by about 2.5 cc each. I had a turbo expert set the max boost to 6.5 psi and supply a document confirming that he had done this.
It doesn't half go now!
Sounds like someone who typically knew nothing and had a fast road 1293 setup, came across a t3 off a metro turbo and just bolted on assuming everything was ok.I also rebuilt an engine for a Turbo Mini which had been incorretly built by a so-called 'expert' and it blew up after 4 miles from intial stert-up. I found that the geometrical compression ratio wa 10.3:1 which gave almost 15:1 at 7 psi boost, and all with ordinary Hepolite pistons and the distributor was a standard one which gave too much advance too soon.
It had to be rebuilt with Omega pistons and a geometric CR of 8:1 plus a specially curved Aldon dizzy. The combustion chambers had to be enlarged by about 2.5 cc each. I had a turbo expert set the max boost to 6.5 psi and supply a document confirming that he had done this.
It doesn't half go now!
annodomini2 said:
Cooperman said:
I did some work on a Sprite with a Shorrock blower a while back and that has always been regarded as the traditional blower for an A-series.
I also rebuilt an engine for a Turbo Mini which had been incorretly built by a so-called 'expert' and it blew up after 4 miles from intial stert-up. I found that the geometrical compression ratio wa 10.3:1 which gave almost 15:1 at 7 psi boost, and all with ordinary Hepolite pistons and the distributor was a standard one which gave too much advance too soon.
It had to be rebuilt with Omega pistons and a geometric CR of 8:1 plus a specially curved Aldon dizzy. The combustion chambers had to be enlarged by about 2.5 cc each. I had a turbo expert set the max boost to 6.5 psi and supply a document confirming that he had done this.
It doesn't half go now!
Sounds like someone who typically knew nothing and had a fast road 1293 setup, came across a t3 off a metro turbo and just bolted on assuming everything was ok.I also rebuilt an engine for a Turbo Mini which had been incorretly built by a so-called 'expert' and it blew up after 4 miles from intial stert-up. I found that the geometrical compression ratio wa 10.3:1 which gave almost 15:1 at 7 psi boost, and all with ordinary Hepolite pistons and the distributor was a standard one which gave too much advance too soon.
It had to be rebuilt with Omega pistons and a geometric CR of 8:1 plus a specially curved Aldon dizzy. The combustion chambers had to be enlarged by about 2.5 cc each. I had a turbo expert set the max boost to 6.5 psi and supply a document confirming that he had done this.
It doesn't half go now!
vodkakid said:
300bhp/ton said:
I can't really offer much more than what has been said already. All I can say is don't use PTS in Luton.
Is PTS the rolling road place off Dallow RdI had heard bad things about them for a long time. But after installing some new bits on my V8 I needed it RR'd as soon as. And I didn't know anywhere else to go, so I thought sod it, I'll give it a go.
Wish I hadn't. Bunch of muppets
I admit this was a few years ago, think 2005. So maybe its different now.
If you want to keep original then would go twin 1 1/4's over 1/2's, we had a 1380 with 1/4's on and it produced a lot torque down the bottom when we switched to 1/2's we did gain more top end but lost some of the low down pull. Now we run a 1310 with sw10 cam, head etc with the 1/2's which suit the engine well but have thought about going back down to 1/4's again. The smaller carb can pull the air into the engine better which will produce more torque low down, yes we will loose some top end but it isn't really that much nad will make the car a bit more driveable.
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