Cleaning block prior to build

[JTBUSH]

Ive finally got all the parts cleaned/ machined/ bought/ replaced etc to build my 1293 engine. The block came back from the machine shop clean inside so i degreased the outside and painted it. Only problem is, its sat on the engine stand in the garage for a bit. Ive done some porting work recently so got metal dust everywhere, including inside the engine which I stupidly didnt cover up. I had coated it all with WD40 to keep the rust away but this has meant the WD40 is now like a very fine metal paste inside the block and down the bores.

Whats the best way of getting this clean. I was thinking of a big plastic storage box filled with some kind of engine de greaser. Im loathed to get it chemical dipped as Ive spent ages getting it painted up.

[GingerWizard]

the box idea should work, just re spray it with wd40 after. A power hose would also work, but you need to be sure its very very dry and oiled afterwards.... it will be a bh of a job mind.....

best of luck

[JTBUSH]

Anyone any advice on best engine cleaner to use?

[GingerWizard]

i would'nt want anything to strong, that Muc off is pretty vicious, pop along to Halfrauds i am sure they have a plethora of items for such jobs....sorry cant be of more help.

[oldboyracer64]

i used this to wash my engine with a pressure washer works great for me
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Traffic-Film-Remover-TFR-25L...

[JTBUSH]

Inside the engine as well?

[oldboyracer64]

JTBUSH said:

Inside the engine as well?

yep i washed it all down inside and out also the gearbox then had my space heater blowing on it for a hour to dry them then coated with new 20/50 oil now after 5 weeks sat in the garage there is no sign of any rusting

[JTBUSH]

Excellent. Right, will try that then!

[Tangent Police]

The best engine cleaner I have found which is completely amazing at removing varnishes/oil clag is cellulose thinners. It makes the inside look like new.

It really shifts everything and then evaporates dry after you've wiped the surplus off.

Good stuff if you're doing a swap from mineral to castor oil.

(if you're going the other way, use isopropyl alcohol to clean off the castor oil and then celly thinners will get the rest of the residue off).

Celly thinners = Methyl Benzene (Tolune) and Dimethyl Benzene (Xylene) which are very good non polar solvents. It works better than petrol and is less "fumy" than ether. You also need a very small amount.

Edited by Tangent Police on Wednesday 13th January 11:48

[Tangent Police]

For external stuff, if it's oily, I use petrol to get the worst off and then something like Jizer (water soluble degreaser) if this isn't satisfactory, whack a dash of fairy liquid in. Pressure hose that lot off!

(I thought you were on about the inside only)

[JTBUSH]

I am only needing to clean the inside. The outside is freshly painted so looking very sparkly!

[Tangent Police]

Cellulose thinners.

Then come back and tell us how amazing it was. You'd be surprised how much dark varnish there is in there.

[JTBUSH]

Tried thinners, and it did a good job of degreasing, but you could still feel the metal dust in the engine block and bores, no matter how much you wiped it. In the end I scrubbed it with gunk then hosed it down. Dried off very carefully and covered with wd40. Seems to have done a good job as its clean as a whistle with no grit.