Discussion
Hmmm... I'm thinking of doing the opposite (upgrading to 13x7 rims from my existing 12x5's). My big concern is the tales of poor handling associated with the bigger wheels, and the bodywork chopping that is required. I may opt for a set of 12x6 deep dish Superlites instead.
Not sure how the grip would be affected by going for smaller wheels. I would imagine it is the width of the tyre in contact with the road that defines the grip level, so in theory perhaps a 7 inch tyre would have a little more than a 6. However, the experts on here may tell us that the 6 inch tyres give ample grip for a Mini anyway.
Not sure how the grip would be affected by going for smaller wheels. I would imagine it is the width of the tyre in contact with the road that defines the grip level, so in theory perhaps a 7 inch tyre would have a little more than a 6. However, the experts on here may tell us that the 6 inch tyres give ample grip for a Mini anyway.
Its pretty hard to find 12x6 or above rims.
I guess the width do affect the grip level.
i has 12x3.5 as standard rim before, the handling was piss awful, slides everywhere, but then the tires is worn moulded tires.
reason to change the superlites to smaller tires is i sick of fixing the bearings, and bump steer.
Jay
I guess the width do affect the grip level.
i has 12x3.5 as standard rim before, the handling was piss awful, slides everywhere, but then the tires is worn moulded tires.
reason to change the superlites to smaller tires is i sick of fixing the bearings, and bump steer.
Jay
IMHO 13" wheels are horrible. They may look very nice, but they don't do anything to improve performance, and they do indeed 'shag out' the wheel bearings.
I reckon a 5" x 12" is about the optimum size with a 165 width tyre. Increasing the wheel width just puts the tread down onto the road in a more stable manner making the sidewall sit more vertically. However, too wide and the effective track centre-line moves outboard, with handling and suspension geometry implications.
With a radial tyre the sidewall mean centre-line should be as vertical as possible and the 'footprint' with a 165 section at a nominal weight of around 740kg (which is about what a Mini weighs) is about ideal. Wider tyres give a greater contact area which, in turn means a lower contact pressure. Lower contact pressure is no problem in the dry, but in the wet it means that there is less "squeegee" effect to clear the water - hence aquaplaning will occur at a lower speed.
For ultimate handling a 5" x 10" wheel with 165/70x10" tyre will always be the very best and will give reduced wheel bearing wear. The suspension geometry wes, remember, originally designed for the 10" wheel.
I hope this makes sense. The bigger the wheel the more it screws up the intended suspension geometry.
I reckon a 5" x 12" is about the optimum size with a 165 width tyre. Increasing the wheel width just puts the tread down onto the road in a more stable manner making the sidewall sit more vertically. However, too wide and the effective track centre-line moves outboard, with handling and suspension geometry implications.
With a radial tyre the sidewall mean centre-line should be as vertical as possible and the 'footprint' with a 165 section at a nominal weight of around 740kg (which is about what a Mini weighs) is about ideal. Wider tyres give a greater contact area which, in turn means a lower contact pressure. Lower contact pressure is no problem in the dry, but in the wet it means that there is less "squeegee" effect to clear the water - hence aquaplaning will occur at a lower speed.
For ultimate handling a 5" x 10" wheel with 165/70x10" tyre will always be the very best and will give reduced wheel bearing wear. The suspension geometry wes, remember, originally designed for the 10" wheel.
I hope this makes sense. The bigger the wheel the more it screws up the intended suspension geometry.
I've always wondered about the benefits against cost of the 4-pot calipers.
When driving a Mini really hard the limiting factor always seems to be brake pad efficiency and brake fluid boiling.
I run AP600 brake fluid and carbon-metallic pads with Cooper 'S' 7.5" solid discs and don't ever have a problem. The pedal feel is always good, too.
With EBC 'Green' pads I can easily get a lot of fade on demanding roads, whilst I have boiled 'Dot 4' fluid.
It would be interesting to try a 4-pot braked Mini with big wheels against a Cooper 'S' braked one with 10" wheels on a very twisty bit of road. The question is, would the better handling and road-holding with the 10" wheels beat the presumably better braking performance, but slower speed through the corners, of a 12" or 13" wheel car, assuming they both had the same pad meterial and brake fluid.
When driving a Mini really hard the limiting factor always seems to be brake pad efficiency and brake fluid boiling.
I run AP600 brake fluid and carbon-metallic pads with Cooper 'S' 7.5" solid discs and don't ever have a problem. The pedal feel is always good, too.
With EBC 'Green' pads I can easily get a lot of fade on demanding roads, whilst I have boiled 'Dot 4' fluid.
It would be interesting to try a 4-pot braked Mini with big wheels against a Cooper 'S' braked one with 10" wheels on a very twisty bit of road. The question is, would the better handling and road-holding with the 10" wheels beat the presumably better braking performance, but slower speed through the corners, of a 12" or 13" wheel car, assuming they both had the same pad meterial and brake fluid.
Yeah i think they were orginaly from a metro but have been converted for minis.
But they do have 3 bleed points where the metro ones have two i think.
They were the ones from mini speed
Have heard good things about the pagid disks, dont know on the pads.
Will be interested to hear what u think of them when its all up and running
>> Edited by Dodgy Dave on Friday 6th February 13:32
But they do have 3 bleed points where the metro ones have two i think.
They were the ones from mini speed
Have heard good things about the pagid disks, dont know on the pads.
Will be interested to hear what u think of them when its all up and running
>> Edited by Dodgy Dave on Friday 6th February 13:32
Hi Guys,
I've been musing on the wheel size v. grip issue for some time now. I'm going the Metro caliper route so it's got to be 12 or 13 inch. I'm not keen on anything which involves any body modding so that narrows the choice to 12 inch with 165/60s. The new Minilight Mk2 comes in 5x12 or 6x12 Big Deep, or Ultralight are available in 5x12 or 5.5x12. If the 6x12 produce the most vertical tyre sidewall then these should be the best choice, but would we be getting into body/suspension modding territory or at least some pretty wide arches. What do you think?
I've been musing on the wheel size v. grip issue for some time now. I'm going the Metro caliper route so it's got to be 12 or 13 inch. I'm not keen on anything which involves any body modding so that narrows the choice to 12 inch with 165/60s. The new Minilight Mk2 comes in 5x12 or 6x12 Big Deep, or Ultralight are available in 5x12 or 5.5x12. If the 6x12 produce the most vertical tyre sidewall then these should be the best choice, but would we be getting into body/suspension modding territory or at least some pretty wide arches. What do you think?
My advice, don't go down the 13's route unless you only want them for show.
- 10's for the best classic/old skool look
- 12's for all round best performance
- 13's for looks only
Have had Coopers on 10's, 12's and 13's and by far the best fun are on the 12's with good boots. Much sharper handling, doesn't tramline and handbrake turns are cleaner
All the best!
- 10's for the best classic/old skool look
- 12's for all round best performance
- 13's for looks only
Have had Coopers on 10's, 12's and 13's and by far the best fun are on the 12's with good boots. Much sharper handling, doesn't tramline and handbrake turns are cleaner
All the best!
Hi Dave,
I think you mean 'Falken'. IIRV Falcon was a re-mould brand from a few years ago.
The best size with a 12" wheel will be a 165x60.
The Yokohama range are slightly better than Falken, but more expensive. With the Falkens you may be disappointed at first as they seem to take a long time to reach their optimum performance and seem a bit vague until fully scrubbed-in.
For pressures try 32 - 33 psi all round. Don't set the dampers too hard either for normal fast road use.
I think you mean 'Falken'. IIRV Falcon was a re-mould brand from a few years ago.
The best size with a 12" wheel will be a 165x60.
The Yokohama range are slightly better than Falken, but more expensive. With the Falkens you may be disappointed at first as they seem to take a long time to reach their optimum performance and seem a bit vague until fully scrubbed-in.
For pressures try 32 - 33 psi all round. Don't set the dampers too hard either for normal fast road use.
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