ball joints done and progress
Discussion
thanks 4 all the advice on the ball joints, that was holding me back but now its gone into fastforward and im a happy man, here is some pics of whats been occuring
after putting it all together and bolting it in, it just didnt look wright, it was sitting far to high so i went out 1st thing the nxt day and got a set of high lows and installed them straight away. the rear is fine and has loads more lower adjusting left but the front is still a bit to high and im just hoping the engine weight will take it down??? what do you think see for yourself
befor hi lows
after hi lows
.
my only issue now is the bottom of the door on the closing edge sticks out a few mm more than rear quarter and bending the door aint working. ive noticed this problem on lots of mini but is there a way round it??? happy new year...neale...
after putting it all together and bolting it in, it just didnt look wright, it was sitting far to high so i went out 1st thing the nxt day and got a set of high lows and installed them straight away. the rear is fine and has loads more lower adjusting left but the front is still a bit to high and im just hoping the engine weight will take it down??? what do you think see for yourself
befor hi lows
after hi lows
.my only issue now is the bottom of the door on the closing edge sticks out a few mm more than rear quarter and bending the door aint working. ive noticed this problem on lots of mini but is there a way round it??? happy new year...neale...
That looks great Neale.
As for the door sticking out - they almost all do. If it won't bend in you have to live with it. I usually put a block of wood wrapped in a towel in between the frame and door at lok height and push at the top and bottom at the same time. That usually does it! It really is a bit of brute forec needed there. be careful that the door skin welding does not break away. That's why it's a good idea to check and correct door fits before final painting.
Also, a Happy New Year to you.
Peter
As for the door sticking out - they almost all do. If it won't bend in you have to live with it. I usually put a block of wood wrapped in a towel in between the frame and door at lok height and push at the top and bottom at the same time. That usually does it! It really is a bit of brute forec needed there. be careful that the door skin welding does not break away. That's why it's a good idea to check and correct door fits before final painting.
Also, a Happy New Year to you.
Peter
thanks cooperman, i corrected my door today and it fitts a lot better now, i used a small socket and wedged it in there and i done the trick. what do you think of the suspention, do you think the weight of the engine will lower it atleast 3/4inch?? the rear are fine with lots of adjust left but the front are fully dropped. the only thing i can think of is take off the locking bolt on the hi low and drop it flat which would give me an extra 3/4inch but does this sound ok to do, i cant c why not.
minipete, ive built it on standard brakes to fit my 13" minators but when i came to move it to the garage that its in now on monday i couldnt find any wheel nuts to for my wheels so unfortunatly i had take the 10s off the clubman estate which just fitted over the disks and use them to get it on the truck...i say unfortunatly because now i can see how great it looks and its gonna cost me a few extra pence now cus that the way im gonna go.
below is a picture of my mini on the way to its new home all that is missing off the picture is the longbridge rover plant. its crazy to think that a few years back rover would have filled the complete horizon in this photo from left to right... R.I.P rover. my mini now lives just 30 second from here..
minipete, ive built it on standard brakes to fit my 13" minators but when i came to move it to the garage that its in now on monday i couldnt find any wheel nuts to for my wheels so unfortunatly i had take the 10s off the clubman estate which just fitted over the disks and use them to get it on the truck...i say unfortunatly because now i can see how great it looks and its gonna cost me a few extra pence now cus that the way im gonna go.
below is a picture of my mini on the way to its new home all that is missing off the picture is the longbridge rover plant. its crazy to think that a few years back rover would have filled the complete horizon in this photo from left to right... R.I.P rover. my mini now lives just 30 second from here..
Once the engine and box are in it should drop the front at least 1", especially when it's been run about a bit. You may even end up raising it slightly.
It'll be best of 10" wheels. They really are the best size for all road-going Minis at a width of about 5" maximum as that's where the 165 width tyre performs best. I use both 4.5" and 5" widths on my 1310 'S' and both are fine. In fact I don't notice any difference except when I have different tyres on (like 'knobblies' for gravel).
Glad your door is OK.
It'll be best of 10" wheels. They really are the best size for all road-going Minis at a width of about 5" maximum as that's where the 165 width tyre performs best. I use both 4.5" and 5" widths on my 1310 'S' and both are fine. In fact I don't notice any difference except when I have different tyres on (like 'knobblies' for gravel).
Glad your door is OK.
thank 4 that bit of knowledge on the 10s...i hav a buddy who was saying "no you wanna keep your 13s it will handle better) but i knew deep down he was wrong so theres my confirmation. im going to have to run it on 13s for now due to the mini fund not being to great at the moment but easy fix wen i can afford to get them.
1 more thing has been bugging me...ive put a new and rebuild rear subframe on on looking from the back the wheels just dont seem to be sitting correctly, from the rear outer side of the subframe (directly inline with the back edge of tyre) to the outer wall of the tyre is 260mm on the passenger side and 266mm on the driver side, i have a 175 tyre and 30mm spacers...is this a common thing???
ive done nothing structural to the back end just simply replaced the frame and theres no signs of rear end damage so is 5/10mm enough to cause any problems or am i just worrying again (hopfully im just worrying again). cheers m8
1 more thing has been bugging me...ive put a new and rebuild rear subframe on on looking from the back the wheels just dont seem to be sitting correctly, from the rear outer side of the subframe (directly inline with the back edge of tyre) to the outer wall of the tyre is 260mm on the passenger side and 266mm on the driver side, i have a 175 tyre and 30mm spacers...is this a common thing???
ive done nothing structural to the back end just simply replaced the frame and theres no signs of rear end damage so is 5/10mm enough to cause any problems or am i just worrying again (hopfully im just worrying again). cheers m8
Edited by dogfather on Sunday 3rd January 20:07
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