damn ball joints
Discussion
cooperman, i did what you said with the fine paste and then fine paste and touch of 20w 50 and the 1st 1 went together ok (the bottom one with spring and cup) but the top 1 without the spring just wouldnt go on rite.. there are diffrent size shims, thick, medium and thin, ive tried all combinations of shims i.e 1 thick and 2 thin ones result in the ballpin being very loose and easily span round with just a touch of your finger tip so i removed 2 thin ones and replaced them with 1 medium 1 and the ballpin becomes solid when only finger tight, i just cant find an inbetween and im pulling my hair out. this is the only thing holding me back from completing the front frame, im in need of some trouble shooting nohow before i have to take them to someone to do for me which is somthing i didnt want to do, as i really want to do it for myself so i learn and know for nxt time...so agen your advice would be awsome. thanks again...neale..
If it is a bit too tight or a bit too loose, all you do is to linish a tiny bit off the bottom face of the cap until it is just right. Use emory cloth or even a bit of 240 grit wet & dry to do this.
I have often done this to get it 'just right' and i do the same with the front hub castellaed nuts if the split pin holes don't line up at the correct torque.
I have often done this to get it 'just right' and i do the same with the front hub castellaed nuts if the split pin holes don't line up at the correct torque.
Hi Neil,
You really don't need to pay someone to do this.
I suspect that you don't have enough of a selection of shims. The ones supplied with a new kit are almost always not enough or not the right thicknesses.
Set it so that it's as near as you can get it but still a bit tight. Then just remove the cap and linish off a bit from the bottom of the cap and try it again (and again) until it's just right. I know this will take an hour or so, but it'll be as good as a 'pro' will get it. If I were doing it, that's what I would do, although after almost 50 years with Minis I do have quite a selection of shims of different thicknesses. However, I still do sometimes have to linish the cap a bit to get it right.
You really don't need to pay someone to do this.
I suspect that you don't have enough of a selection of shims. The ones supplied with a new kit are almost always not enough or not the right thicknesses.
Set it so that it's as near as you can get it but still a bit tight. Then just remove the cap and linish off a bit from the bottom of the cap and try it again (and again) until it's just right. I know this will take an hour or so, but it'll be as good as a 'pro' will get it. If I were doing it, that's what I would do, although after almost 50 years with Minis I do have quite a selection of shims of different thicknesses. However, I still do sometimes have to linish the cap a bit to get it right.
thanks pete i think youve talked some sense into me, i do dave a couple of extra shims which where kindly given to me by the man at MIN ITS near solihull bham so ill give it another go. the only thing that is frustrating me is that im getting a lot of mixed opinions on how they should feel once assembled. some say it should move nicely with your fingers (with ease) some say tight enough so that you can just about turn them with your fingers and also some have said they should be able to spin on the spot in upright position so i just dont know. which one should i go for pete, if i should listen to anyone i guess i would be you...thanks agen m8 im very grateful as always.
Hi Neil,
They can be firm, but you must just be able to swivel them about by hand, even if this takes a firm grip to do it. They will soon bed in once pressure greased and used a bit.
The can be a bit looser than that, so long as there is no sloppyness which would allow free-play in the hub when fully assembled.
If you have lapped them in you will get a nice even tightness on each one although that tightness may vary a bit from one to the other.
What you mustn't have is them so solid it takes a lever to move them as you run the risk of the pin snapping if you hit a big bump. Once greased so long as you have movement in all directions they'll be fine. It's not a really precise thing.
You could always do the job tomorrow afternoon!
Have a great Christmas and good luk for the New Year.
Peter
They can be firm, but you must just be able to swivel them about by hand, even if this takes a firm grip to do it. They will soon bed in once pressure greased and used a bit.
The can be a bit looser than that, so long as there is no sloppyness which would allow free-play in the hub when fully assembled.
If you have lapped them in you will get a nice even tightness on each one although that tightness may vary a bit from one to the other.
What you mustn't have is them so solid it takes a lever to move them as you run the risk of the pin snapping if you hit a big bump. Once greased so long as you have movement in all directions they'll be fine. It's not a really precise thing.
You could always do the job tomorrow afternoon!
Have a great Christmas and good luk for the New Year.
Peter
dogfather, it sounds like you've stripped/reassembled these correctly a few times now, so you know how to do it! And as Peter (and others) have said, do it up so you can move it by hand (even if it takes a bit of grunt)when dry.
My nugget of info is to keep your old shims (as long as they're in good enough nick) and any that you don't use - one day I'll have a collection as good as Peters!
For me, these always go right 1st time, or it takes an hour per joint!
But don't pay anyone to do it - you'll only kick yourself later!
Merry Christmas
My nugget of info is to keep your old shims (as long as they're in good enough nick) and any that you don't use - one day I'll have a collection as good as Peters!
For me, these always go right 1st time, or it takes an hour per joint!
But don't pay anyone to do it - you'll only kick yourself later!
Merry Christmas
Thanks pete/cooper1999 thats just what i wanted to hear, i know how they should feel now going by what you said, i have done the bottom joint and im now confident that it is correct. Phew it realy has took a weight of my mini shoulders i tell ya. Now my mind has wondered to the engine. ive decided to go for a 1330cc ,and upto about 45seconds ogo i was going to ask about the piston sizes etc but ive just spotted a kit from mini speed, its a fully preped and painted block, reground crank with polished journals n lead copper bearing, +20 to +60 pistons and rods, choice of cam and new followers,duplex gears and chain, h/c oil pump and convertion gasket set all for £600
on the other hand in my mini shed i have a original block (92/93 std 1275 mayfair) fully cleaned and painted, the crank has been ermm (cant think of the technical term) treated and balanced but may need to get it checked because im taking the sellers word for it( where would i get the crank tested?) the head is janspeed with the work stamps reading as follows: JANSPEED
6379
0.010"
21.7
H.
its a leaded head with valves that came out of it (second hand head with very little use) and im lead to believe that the valves are maxed out, i measured them with a tape and they are 37mm and 30mm so unleaded seats are not an option for this head. from what ive been reading this head is a stage 3 possibly stage 4 (what do you think?)
the pistons will obviously be no use but do i use the con rods that i have off the 1275 unit or is it wise to get new ones. 1.5 offset rockers ( i think) and a cooper s diff and final drive, how would i know the ratio and if it is true to say...ill just go and count the teeth.....the diff is marked with dam2678 18/62 and F/D gear has 15 teeth what does this tell me? Im looking to get a cam kit soon and was wondering what would be best mild or fast road im thinking fast road but not sure if this would make it a lumpy ride, im not to bothered about top end but more acceloration on mid range but must be suitable for the ocasional london to brighton....i know i have a lot of questions but help on some if not all would be great.
thanks guys and have a great day...mini christmas.
on the other hand in my mini shed i have a original block (92/93 std 1275 mayfair) fully cleaned and painted, the crank has been ermm (cant think of the technical term) treated and balanced but may need to get it checked because im taking the sellers word for it( where would i get the crank tested?) the head is janspeed with the work stamps reading as follows: JANSPEED
6379
0.010"
21.7
H.
its a leaded head with valves that came out of it (second hand head with very little use) and im lead to believe that the valves are maxed out, i measured them with a tape and they are 37mm and 30mm so unleaded seats are not an option for this head. from what ive been reading this head is a stage 3 possibly stage 4 (what do you think?)
the pistons will obviously be no use but do i use the con rods that i have off the 1275 unit or is it wise to get new ones. 1.5 offset rockers ( i think) and a cooper s diff and final drive, how would i know the ratio and if it is true to say...ill just go and count the teeth.....the diff is marked with dam2678 18/62 and F/D gear has 15 teeth what does this tell me? Im looking to get a cam kit soon and was wondering what would be best mild or fast road im thinking fast road but not sure if this would make it a lumpy ride, im not to bothered about top end but more acceloration on mid range but must be suitable for the ocasional london to brighton....i know i have a lot of questions but help on some if not all would be great.
thanks guys and have a great day...mini christmas.
Edited by dogfather on Friday 25th December 12:59
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