JA Pearce Magna alloy wheels
Discussion
Does anyone have any info about JA Pearce Magna alloys?
I've got a set of them that came with my pickup project, a bit of Googling suggests that they were made back in the 60's. They're extremely light, as if they're racing wheels or so.
I know nothing of Mini history etc. so any info you guys might have would be appreciated.
They look like this:
I've got a set of them that came with my pickup project, a bit of Googling suggests that they were made back in the 60's. They're extremely light, as if they're racing wheels or so.
I know nothing of Mini history etc. so any info you guys might have would be appreciated.
They look like this:
they are a fairly rare wheel and where made (IIRC) in 5 and 6" widths (and possibly 7) the 6" are the ones that hold the money, but as some where made in mag they tend to have crumbled into a state where they are not really safe to be used on the road.
they did make alloy versions as well, which lasted longer.
they did make alloy versions as well, which lasted longer.
No idea how to identify them, sorry, but there is some info on Magnesium wheels on this topic:
Reconditioning Magnesium Alloy Wheels
Do not even think about rechroming in your shed - Chromium salts are very nasty indeed!
Reconditioning Magnesium Alloy Wheels
Do not even think about rechroming in your shed - Chromium salts are very nasty indeed!
to work out if they are mag should be fairly easy, remove one of the tyres and inspect the inside, if its white, crumbly and powdery with strange yellow pus like blisters, then they are 99% magnesium! - alloy doesnt do this!
mags will be a lot lighter than alloy, a 5 x 10 alloy wheel will weigh between 2.7 - 3.8 kg dependant on make, anything lighter than this will point to it been mag, though this is not always corect as i have seen 1960's 6 x 10 mag minilights that weigh more than alloys (but they had been made from mag for strength not lighness)
if yours are mag and are not corroded, then get them blasted and give them a very light coat of etch primer, then a very thin coat of paint, dont seal them (or get them powder coated) as mag has to 'breath' through the paint. sealing them just allows them to rot away under the coating (which is why they always show there true state when the tyre is removed)
hope this helps
mags will be a lot lighter than alloy, a 5 x 10 alloy wheel will weigh between 2.7 - 3.8 kg dependant on make, anything lighter than this will point to it been mag, though this is not always corect as i have seen 1960's 6 x 10 mag minilights that weigh more than alloys (but they had been made from mag for strength not lighness)
if yours are mag and are not corroded, then get them blasted and give them a very light coat of etch primer, then a very thin coat of paint, dont seal them (or get them powder coated) as mag has to 'breath' through the paint. sealing them just allows them to rot away under the coating (which is why they always show there true state when the tyre is removed)
hope this helps
I've had 2 sets of JAP's. Both 6x10. They went from 4.5" to 6.5" in 0.5" increments. The pre '67 ones are not date stamped and have a more detailed casting at the back. They resist corrosion a lot better than minilites as they were a special alloy (the code escapes me). Like all mag wheels, regardless of whether they've cracked, they go brittle with age, especially where there has been a lot of temperature variation.
I spoke to a guy who was selling 3 (as I needed a spare) and he was getting rid of 3 as the 4th one let go on him in a corner.
Yours look like very late ones, the 12 spoke design were used on the thinner ones, 4.5" and 5", the earlier ones keeping the 4 holes (like slotmags) whilst the wider ones were 8 spokes. Like very deep dish D1's.
I got rid of my first set as the stud holes had elongated, a guy in the states had them refinished and here they are:-
I found a set of 6x10's which I paid £200 for. Sadly, our mad next door neighbour set fire to our shed and they melted. They were perfect.
In hindsight, learning a few stories about failing old wheels, I wouldn't use any, apart from show.
I spoke to a guy who was selling 3 (as I needed a spare) and he was getting rid of 3 as the 4th one let go on him in a corner.
Yours look like very late ones, the 12 spoke design were used on the thinner ones, 4.5" and 5", the earlier ones keeping the 4 holes (like slotmags) whilst the wider ones were 8 spokes. Like very deep dish D1's.
I got rid of my first set as the stud holes had elongated, a guy in the states had them refinished and here they are:-
I found a set of 6x10's which I paid £200 for. Sadly, our mad next door neighbour set fire to our shed and they melted. They were perfect.
In hindsight, learning a few stories about failing old wheels, I wouldn't use any, apart from show.
another thing to consider about magnesium wheels is this...
the original cooper car co rose petals where made from magnesium (they used the gearbox casings from early vw beetles as it was high quality mag). the wheels used on the cooper car racers where then inspected often and once they found to have problems they would be scrapped - they where never used for more than a season.
yet here we are 40 years later people will pay hundreds of pounds for the wheels just to say they have the originals!!!
madness
the original cooper car co rose petals where made from magnesium (they used the gearbox casings from early vw beetles as it was high quality mag). the wheels used on the cooper car racers where then inspected often and once they found to have problems they would be scrapped - they where never used for more than a season.
yet here we are 40 years later people will pay hundreds of pounds for the wheels just to say they have the originals!!!
madness
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