Rust advice?

Author
Discussion

.Mark

Original Poster:

11,104 posts

283 months

Tuesday 12th August 2003
quotequote all
Chaps,
Some of you may remember me saying a few months back about a mini that is being given to me for my daughter to use?
We went to have a look at it this evening and aside from the MOT failing bits (rear subframe and a few odds and sods) I noticed it could probably do with some welding too.
Would anybody mind looking Here under 'Ash's Mini' and tell me what they think?
My main worry is the first picture, it is the nearside rear wheel arch from the inside, and, as you can see it is rusted right through and feels very soft all the way up to where my little finger is. Would this be a costly repair?
I can do all the mechanical stuff but not the welding, I have a mate in the motor trade who can get me a new rear subframe for £65 is this reasonable?

Many thanks.

>>> Edited by .Mark on Tuesday 12th August 18:30

Fatboy

8,089 posts

279 months

Tuesday 12th August 2003
quotequote all
.Mark said:
Chaps,
Some of you may remember me saying a few months back about a mini that is being given to me for my daughter to use?
We went to have a look at it this evening and aside from the MOT failing bits (rear subframe and a few odds and sods) I noticed it could probably do with some welding too.
Would anybody mind looking Here under 'Ash's Mini' and tell me what they think?
My main worry is the first picture, it is the nearside rear wheel arch from the inside, and, as you can see it is rusted right through and feels very soft all the way up to where my little finger is. Would this be a costly repair?
I can do all the mechanical stuff but not the welding, I have a mate in the motor trade who can get me a new rear subframe for £65 is this reasonable?

Many thanks.

£65 for a new genuine rover rear subframe is very good - normally retail about £120, if it's a non genuine (i.e. a repro part) it's about normal price...

phil hill

433 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
quotequote all
The panels are available to repair any of the major mini tin-worm areas. I was going to say it'd better be cheap, then I re-read your post...... If the rear wheel tubs have gone then more than likely the subframe mounting points will be cornflakes too, and what about the sills ?? inner A-panels/front door hinge posts ?? If it were me I think I'd be looking for a better example to start off with. Don't be fooled, the panels are cheap but it takes time and skill to put it all together properly. Take the chrome dress-up goodies off, the wheels, if it has disc brakes them too, and look for a more solid car.

plotloss

67,280 posts

277 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
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Like Phil says it can be done but some of the sections look a bit of a pain.

The front can be replaced wholesale quite quickly and quite simply.

There are a few bits on there that do look a little suss though, on one of the photos the scuttle has some bubbling and that repair panel can be a pain in the arse to find if its quite advanced.

£65 for a subframe is very reasonable. Is this brand new? If its not, MiniSport have them for £99 brand new.

Great looking little car though!

>> Edited by plotloss (moderator) on Wednesday 13th August 08:35

.Mark

Original Poster:

11,104 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
quotequote all
Thanks chaps.
£65 is a price for a new one, as has been said I don't know if that's a genuine one or a repro - I don't suppose it matters.
It failed the MOT on the rear subframe so I know that needs doing, but was surprised there was no mention of the rust over the wheel arch, I too wondered about the subframe mountings. I'll probably replace the subframe myself (if I decide to take the car) but will need one of my mechanic mates to do any welding.
I don't want a concours winner it's just to get my daughter on the road when she is 17 and get her some insurance going, however I don't want the bloody thing to fall apart in 6 months.
To be honest all the other rust patches don't worry me too much as they seem superficial but obviously the wheel arch does concern me - what does the assembled think, give it a go or walk away?

WildfireX0

9,831 posts

259 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
quotequote all
My advice on the subframe is be careful

There are many stories of people putting non genuine rear subframes on and ending up with massive toe in an positive camber. When replacing my rear subframe last year bought one from Mini Spare in Potter's Bar only to fin that my radius arm didn't fit on one side. Turns out that the entire batch was faulty for that month for both Mini Spares and Mii Shop.

The rust on the scuttle can be a pain if it's advanced, mine has never really gone away. Best thing to do is replace the whole front, seeing as both sides seem to be going as well as the wing. The rust over the wheel arches seem a bit worrying as well, check the shock mounts as well. Also getting the Subframe and brakes etc is a big deal, while it's off, it's a good idea to replace the bushes in the trailing arms, a repair kit if you want to ream out the bush yourself or a replacemet arm is easier. Garages usually sting you for replacing these.

It's a hit an miss thing. If you're prepared to put the time and effort and more importantly money, then it could be a nice little car. I did and ended up with a car I'm proud of (I had plants growing out of the roof guttering). But if you don't get it all seen to properly, you could look at doing it all again a year later.

If you do decide to go ahead, coat the subframe in anti rust paint liberally , the body shoot (it's a kind of anti stone chip paint), then some thick black stuff, can't remember what it's called and finally waxoyl. This will ensure a long life, also grease filled caps over all the bolts, otherwise they may not come off. New subframe bushes would be a good idea too, possibly a set of aeroquip brake lines as they are cheap for a set.

P.s If you need any advice or help drop me a mail, as I did all of this, body work and all last summer.

>> Edited by WildfireX0 on Wednesday 13th August 09:25

plotloss

67,280 posts

277 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
quotequote all
Good brake lines and I'd suggest a set of stainless bolts is probably best practice when doing the rears...

sagalout

18,893 posts

289 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
quotequote all
And I thought the one I was probably getting looked bad. Seriously, there are areas that would worry me and areas that look better than my project car. Whenever you start a project rebuild and that is any type of car, you must always expect the worst. It normally is even worse than you can see or believe it to be. The costs escalate, there are the little bits that you don't budget for that cost a few pence or pounds but all add up. If you have plenty of time and want to learn welding then this may be the car for you, if you are confident that upon its completion, it will be a strong little car for you little girl to be out on the road in, if you have plenty of time before she is 17, go for it. Especially if it's a pre 73. Otherwise forget it and spend a few extra pounds on a better car. Minis are notorious rust collectors, sometimes difficult to repair, although all the bits are available at little cost. (Compared to TVR).
If you are looking for a car for your daughter, you can, however, get a decent, reliable,non Mini, run around for a few hundred pounds. Ask a friend in the trade to look out for a decent old trade in, the trade don't want them, friend of mine is currently running an early 90's(?) Honda Accord he picked up for £250 over a year ago. No reliability probs never missed a beat.There are loads of things out there, go for something uncool(sorry Ash) they're peanuts.

Paul V

4,489 posts

284 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
quotequote all
Have a good look around the rest of the car, check the sills, inner and outer, check the rear valence, boot floor, floor pans etc. having repaired the rear wheel arches on my girlfriends car I can say they aren’t to hard to do, but the following year the car need to be scraped as it got really bad in other places.

The wheel arch is an MOT failure, are you sure they said the rear subframe and not the subframe mounting point?


>> Edited by Paul V on Wednesday 13th August 09:37

WildfireX0

9,831 posts

259 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
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Oh, yeah, check that over sill haven't been fitted. This is bad.

sagalout

18,893 posts

289 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
quotequote all
Read before about Oversills, presumably exactly as they are described. Is there a way of recognising them rather than the long or short depth replacement sills.
(I know what i mean even if the above sounds rubbish)

.Mark

Original Poster:

11,104 posts

283 months

Wednesday 13th August 2003
quotequote all
Thanks all for the replies.
I think given the replies here I am going to let the head rule the heart and pass up this offer.
From what you chaps have said I really need a workshop or large garage and plenty of time to do a proper job, currently I have neither it was a nice idea while it lasted. Thanks again.

anyone want a project mini? Mechanically sound, nice runner, no MOT, will need collecting from Hampshire.

eein

1,384 posts

272 months

Wednesday 20th August 2003
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A year and a half ago my g/f got a mini and it needed new sills and the exact same work on the rear wheel arches. I managed to borrow a MIG welder off a guy at work and with absolutely no experience did them all myself. The sills took about 2 days work each and the wheel arches took about 1.5 each.

I have put some info and pics on what I did on our mini web site - www.mini-adventure.co.uk .

I did have a garage and I did have to spend about £300 on all the tools and stuff, but I had absolutey nothing to start with and I now have a complete garage of tools and accessories.

I am planning to do our rear subframe sometime and have been advised that despite my lack of experience, a weekend should be ok (and that covering it in WD40 daily for the month beforehand helps!!).

Iain