New rack for damaged "track rod arm"
Discussion
Hi all,
I've got a '98 cooper sports that has been off the road after an accident for the last 3 years and I'm finally getting around to having it sorted out. Unfortunately I lack the time, facilities or knowledge to sort it out myself so it went to the garage this morning.
They've just been on the phone and reckon the horrendous handling is down to a damaged track rod arm. Apparently they can only fix this by replacing the whole steering rack which they have said they can do on Friday for £299 inc. parts/labour/VAT.
They've come recommended by my Dad but I just wanted to check with people in the know on here if this sounds reasonable and it's a fair price?
Many thanks in advance for any help!
Regards
Simon
I've got a '98 cooper sports that has been off the road after an accident for the last 3 years and I'm finally getting around to having it sorted out. Unfortunately I lack the time, facilities or knowledge to sort it out myself so it went to the garage this morning.
They've just been on the phone and reckon the horrendous handling is down to a damaged track rod arm. Apparently they can only fix this by replacing the whole steering rack which they have said they can do on Friday for £299 inc. parts/labour/VAT.
They've come recommended by my Dad but I just wanted to check with people in the know on here if this sounds reasonable and it's a fair price?
Many thanks in advance for any help!
Regards
Simon
That price doesn't sound unreasonable bearing in mind that the job could take well over 5 hours and an exchange rack is, what, c.£35.
Why not do it yourself?
You just take off the air cleaner, undo the top engine stready, undo the exhaust, slacken the front subframe mounts, remove the top sub-frame bolts and all the sub-frame bolts into the front floor. Then drop the sub-frame down about 2.5" at the back using a pair of trolley jacks. By undoing the track rod ends, undoing the 2 off U-bolts which hold the rack in place and removing the pinch-bolt at the bottom of the steering column the rack pulls out from the driver's side. It's a bit fiddley, but not really difficult once everything is out of the way. Just don't try to rush and it's relatively easy. You could also fit solid sub-frame mounts at the same time and that's probablky the best mod to do to improve handling.
Think what you could be spending the £200 you'll save on - a nice gas-flowed cylinder head maybe.
Why not do it yourself?
You just take off the air cleaner, undo the top engine stready, undo the exhaust, slacken the front subframe mounts, remove the top sub-frame bolts and all the sub-frame bolts into the front floor. Then drop the sub-frame down about 2.5" at the back using a pair of trolley jacks. By undoing the track rod ends, undoing the 2 off U-bolts which hold the rack in place and removing the pinch-bolt at the bottom of the steering column the rack pulls out from the driver's side. It's a bit fiddley, but not really difficult once everything is out of the way. Just don't try to rush and it's relatively easy. You could also fit solid sub-frame mounts at the same time and that's probablky the best mod to do to improve handling.
Think what you could be spending the £200 you'll save on - a nice gas-flowed cylinder head maybe.
Thanks for the reply Cooperman. Unfortunately I don't have anywhere where I could do this myself at the moment, let alone any of the equipment needed. So I think for now I'll let them do it... I mainly wanted to check that they're not taking the p*** regarding having to change the whole rack.
Hopefully once it's back up and running I'll start tinkering myself, and no doubt i'll be back on here for suggestions on the most cost effective performance and handling mods to get my hands dirty!
I did bits and pieces on my first car, a mini city E about 10 years ago, but haven't done anything since then so probably best to pace myself!
Thanks for the advice.
Hopefully once it's back up and running I'll start tinkering myself, and no doubt i'll be back on here for suggestions on the most cost effective performance and handling mods to get my hands dirty!
I did bits and pieces on my first car, a mini city E about 10 years ago, but haven't done anything since then so probably best to pace myself!
Thanks for the advice.
the steering arm is not part of the rack and can be swopped easily (part is about 50 quid).
are you sure they dont mean the steering rack tie bar? this is part of the rack that attaches to the track rod end? (and bends easy)
this part is not avalible new anymore (used to be @60 quid) - you would have to get a new rack, this again is a problem, as the short ratio sports pack ones arnt avalible either.
you will need to get a std rack and mod it, or find a sports secondhand one. (or get a quick rack)
all the above aside, 300 quid isnt bad to supply and fit a rack!
are you sure they dont mean the steering rack tie bar? this is part of the rack that attaches to the track rod end? (and bends easy)
this part is not avalible new anymore (used to be @60 quid) - you would have to get a new rack, this again is a problem, as the short ratio sports pack ones arnt avalible either.
you will need to get a std rack and mod it, or find a sports secondhand one. (or get a quick rack)
all the above aside, 300 quid isnt bad to supply and fit a rack!
Well, I didn't know that and I bet not many others do. I guess your local workshop will just order a Mini steering rack from the local motor factor and then realise when they try to fit it and have already got the old one off.
I'm sure Mini Spares will help if you ask 'guru1071' nicely and you can be confident he'll send you the right parts.
I had assumed that the part in question was the steering shaft going into the rack rather than the steering arm on the hub, but it's a bit unusual for this to bend as it only takes direct end loads and, thinking about it, I've always managed to bend the steering arms on the hubs when I've 'gone off'.
I'm sure Mini Spares will help if you ask 'guru1071' nicely and you can be confident he'll send you the right parts.
I had assumed that the part in question was the steering shaft going into the rack rather than the steering arm on the hub, but it's a bit unusual for this to bend as it only takes direct end loads and, thinking about it, I've always managed to bend the steering arms on the hubs when I've 'gone off'.
I've left a message with the garage giving them a heads-up that it doesn't want the standard mini steering rack. I've had a look on the mini spares site and found the Quick Rack that guru mentioned.
www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=37126
Would this one be a straight swap or would it still need to be modded?
Also, Cooperman, you mentioned solid subframe mountings to improve handling... would this be the thing:
www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32785
>> Edited by skim on Thursday 11th May 11:24
www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=37126
Would this one be a straight swap or would it still need to be modded?
Also, Cooperman, you mentioned solid subframe mountings to improve handling... would this be the thing:
www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32785
>> Edited by skim on Thursday 11th May 11:24
rover had a problem with the sportspac wheels touching the bodywork. to get round this they fitted a 'sports' rack. this would appear to be nothing more than a standard rack with a bead of weld layed across the final couple of teeth on each end of the rack bar (british engineering at its best eh?) the aftermarket quick rack helps in this department as it doesnt seam to have the same 'throw' as a standard rack, it also makes the steering a bit lighter.
the last one i stripped had the same ratio as a standard rack so i doubt they where a quicker ratio like many people claim.
the last one i stripped had the same ratio as a standard rack so i doubt they where a quicker ratio like many people claim.
Also, Cooperman, you mentioned solid subframe mountings to improve handling... would this be the thing:
www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32785
>> Edited by skim on Thursday 11th May 11:24[/quote]
That'll be the best few quid you'll ever spend on your Mini. That kit really transforms the and overall 'feel' of the car on the road. As the sub-frame is being dropped anyway, it's an ideal time to change as this should only add a few minutes to the rack change for the fitting of the front mounts and a few nuts and bolts on the rear ones.
Good luck with that.
Peter
www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=32785
>> Edited by skim on Thursday 11th May 11:24[/quote]
That'll be the best few quid you'll ever spend on your Mini. That kit really transforms the and overall 'feel' of the car on the road. As the sub-frame is being dropped anyway, it's an ideal time to change as this should only add a few minutes to the rack change for the fitting of the front mounts and a few nuts and bolts on the rear ones.
Good luck with that.
Peter
I'm considering maybe doing this myself after all (if i can rope a friend who knows what they are doing in to help at least!). Could you advise what I'd need in the way of equipment, jacks, etc?
With me supplying the parts the garage have said they'd charge 3hrs labour to fit everything, and £170 to spend on something else sounds good!
Looks like i was going to be paying over £100+VAT for a standard steering rack.
With me supplying the parts the garage have said they'd charge 3hrs labour to fit everything, and £170 to spend on something else sounds good!
Looks like i was going to be paying over £100+VAT for a standard steering rack.
You will probably need:
A good socket set, 1'2" square drive, with a big socket for the sub-frame tower bolts.
Open ended & ring spanners - a good set.
A crowbar
A good pair of axle stands
Trolley jack - ideally two of these
Ball pin splitter
Two plastic bottle crates (you put these under the front floors when you lower the sub-frame.
Maybe a hammer and some screwdrivers.
Maybe some de-greaser/engine cleaner to use before you start would be a good idea.
Check the track rod ends before you start as if it needs new ones now would be a good time.
I don't know how much you have to remove from the induction system to get at the exhaust and top engine steady, but it shouldn't be too bad. Just do it a bit at a time and don't try to rush.
Whether you need to remove the exhaust pipes from the manifold I don't know (anyone?), but the rear of the sub-frame needs to drop about 2.5" at the rear mountings. Just watch out for things like brake pipes and fuel pipes and battery cable. I think I would disconnect the positive battery cable before starting. The brake pipes don't need moving, just watch out you don't crush them with the crow bar as you prise the sub-frame down.
Once you have cleared the various bits that are in the way you do the following:
Put the bottle crates under the front floor, one each side.
Support each side of the sub-frame near where the lower suspension arms mount.
Remove the bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame mountings to the body.
Slacken the bolts holding the front mountings in place.
Undo the top engine steady bar.
Remove the large bolts in each sub-frame tower.
Lower the jacks under each side of the sub-frame with the body weight resting on the two crates. You may need to use a crow-bar to initially free it, maybe not. Allow it to drop until there is 2.5" to 3" clear on each side at the rear.
Undo the pinch bolt in the bottom of the steering column and remove it.
Release both track rod ends using a ball pin splitter.
Undo the 2 nuts inside the car holding the rack U-bolts in place. Push the U-bolts out and the rack will then be able to be pulled out from the driver's side after you push the spline of the pinion through the floor.
Then, after replacing the sub-frame mountings with the soild ones ar rear and top, you just reverse the procedure to re-fit. Make sure the pinch-bolt through the steering column is correctly engaged and tightened properly.
Finally you can replace the 'tear-drop' mountings at the front with the solid ones.
Then don't forget to re-track the car. I always set the wheels straight ahead for optimum handling.
And the job's a goodun!
Please contact me, (or guru_1071, I'm sure), if you get stuck or need any further assistance. We are here to help. Try not to get 'Mini Spanner Rash' on your hands!
Good luck with it all,
Peter
A good socket set, 1'2" square drive, with a big socket for the sub-frame tower bolts.
Open ended & ring spanners - a good set.
A crowbar
A good pair of axle stands
Trolley jack - ideally two of these
Ball pin splitter
Two plastic bottle crates (you put these under the front floors when you lower the sub-frame.
Maybe a hammer and some screwdrivers.
Maybe some de-greaser/engine cleaner to use before you start would be a good idea.
Check the track rod ends before you start as if it needs new ones now would be a good time.
I don't know how much you have to remove from the induction system to get at the exhaust and top engine steady, but it shouldn't be too bad. Just do it a bit at a time and don't try to rush.
Whether you need to remove the exhaust pipes from the manifold I don't know (anyone?), but the rear of the sub-frame needs to drop about 2.5" at the rear mountings. Just watch out for things like brake pipes and fuel pipes and battery cable. I think I would disconnect the positive battery cable before starting. The brake pipes don't need moving, just watch out you don't crush them with the crow bar as you prise the sub-frame down.
Once you have cleared the various bits that are in the way you do the following:
Put the bottle crates under the front floor, one each side.
Support each side of the sub-frame near where the lower suspension arms mount.
Remove the bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame mountings to the body.
Slacken the bolts holding the front mountings in place.
Undo the top engine steady bar.
Remove the large bolts in each sub-frame tower.
Lower the jacks under each side of the sub-frame with the body weight resting on the two crates. You may need to use a crow-bar to initially free it, maybe not. Allow it to drop until there is 2.5" to 3" clear on each side at the rear.
Undo the pinch bolt in the bottom of the steering column and remove it.
Release both track rod ends using a ball pin splitter.
Undo the 2 nuts inside the car holding the rack U-bolts in place. Push the U-bolts out and the rack will then be able to be pulled out from the driver's side after you push the spline of the pinion through the floor.
Then, after replacing the sub-frame mountings with the soild ones ar rear and top, you just reverse the procedure to re-fit. Make sure the pinch-bolt through the steering column is correctly engaged and tightened properly.
Finally you can replace the 'tear-drop' mountings at the front with the solid ones.
Then don't forget to re-track the car. I always set the wheels straight ahead for optimum handling.
And the job's a goodun!
Please contact me, (or guru_1071, I'm sure), if you get stuck or need any further assistance. We are here to help. Try not to get 'Mini Spanner Rash' on your hands!
Good luck with it all,
Peter
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