Brake bias - cant decide.

[haynes]

Ive started bolting things back on to my shell and have fitted single line brake pipes and will fit a .7 standard bore tin master cylinder. Originally i was going to get an adjustable bias but have been advised that you can fit the smallest bore rear cylinders and get the right balence.

So, dont know whether to go for the adjustable bias or just change the rear cylinders? Just thought, if i use CM pads as discussed in the other thread, and get increased braking at the front, then the balence can be completely changed by what type of pads are used?

On a standard car, is there a bias valve which responds to the amount of braking needed?

[guru_1071]

it will depend on weight, caliper type etc etc.

ive just removed the really small cylinders (1/2" from my car as the back brakes just didnt work, even with a bias valve.

ive stuck the 9/16th ones in as i want the rears to at least squirm a bit when all the effort is sent there.

[cooperman]

The standard (9/16" seem fine for rallying with C-M pads. It sets-ip nicely when I give it a 'dab' going into a loose corner and getting back on the power balances it all up. I suppose that for some people my car would be too much of an 'oversteerer', but it works for me and is fine for normal road driving as well. On a rqacing Mini perhaps you want very little braking on the rear, but that's something to ask the racing boys on here as they will have more experience than I have with such set-ups. On a rally car I just want to know that if I do give it a quick dab into or when in a corner it will make more oversteer.

[fwdracer]

Peter is dead right - as little braking effort as is possible on the rear on a racer. Weight transfer means the rear brakes can lock very easily if left unfettled. Most people put a bias valve in the system and others remove half the rear drum lining.