Rear brake bias adjusters
Discussion
I'm converting to a single line brake system and intend using an S master cylinder. Anyone know where i can get a cheap basic rear brake bias adjusters like the old minispares item. Demon tweakes prices start at about £70 and probably overkill for what i need, as i probably wont change it once its set.
Any other avice on this conversion?
Any other avice on this conversion?
haynes said:
I'm converting to a single line brake system and intend using an S master cylinder. Anyone know where i can get a cheap basic rear brake bias adjusters like the old minispares item. Demon tweakes prices start at about £70 and probably overkill for what i need, as i probably wont change it once its set.
Any other avice on this conversion?
I have a MiniSpares bias valve on the back of my Scamp (single line S cylinder) I too thought I would never change the setting, but with the brakes set up how I like it, it failed the MOT due to "inoperative rear brakes" Now before the MOT I have to put much more bias on the rear then carefully drive to the garage with the rears locking up at every opportunity, highly dangerous but it gets through the MOT!!
Mk1 splitter/bias valve, look in "How to Modify your Mini" by David Vizard, you want something to turn the rear brakes down with, IIRC, it's something to do with a bolt. I run wheezly weeny rear cylinders but it still arses out on corners.
If you look at the front of a Mk1 mini rear subframe, the gubbins is right there, looks about the size of a wheel cylinder with 3 pipes coming out of it. I'm going to pull my lines inside of my 66 and mount it so that I can adjust it inboard. Fuel lines are coming in as well.
If you look at the front of a Mk1 mini rear subframe, the gubbins is right there, looks about the size of a wheel cylinder with 3 pipes coming out of it. I'm going to pull my lines inside of my 66 and mount it so that I can adjust it inboard. Fuel lines are coming in as well.
love machine said:
Mk1 splitter/bias valve, look in "How to Modify your Mini" by David Vizard, you want something to turn the rear brakes down with, IIRC, it's something to do with a bolt. I run wheezly weeny rear cylinders but it still arses out on corners.
If you look at the front of a Mk1 mini rear subframe, the gubbins is right there, looks about the size of a wheel cylinder with 3 pipes coming out of it. I'm going to pull my lines inside of my 66 and mount it so that I can adjust it inboard. Fuel lines are coming in as well.
I bought an adjustable one of these from minispares a few years ago.
With the classis mini bias valve, you can drill and tap the rear of the bias valve and put a bolt in to add preload to the spring. This is a cheap and easy way to get an adjustable bias valve if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. Get a Haynes comic to see an exploded view of the valve and it should be clear how this works.
Ah ha!
Been trying to solve a wheel lock up prob.
Single circuit brakes on a 71 shell with 8.4 disc set up and standard master cylinder.
If I hit the brakes hard, one front (i think) wheel locks.
Been planning to check the other caliper but could it be a balance prob.
ps most lines inside, but will look under rear again at the T junction to see if there's a bolt.
Been trying to solve a wheel lock up prob.
Single circuit brakes on a 71 shell with 8.4 disc set up and standard master cylinder.
If I hit the brakes hard, one front (i think) wheel locks.
Been planning to check the other caliper but could it be a balance prob.
ps most lines inside, but will look under rear again at the T junction to see if there's a bolt.
skyedriver said:
Ah ha!
Been trying to solve a wheel lock up prob.
Single circuit brakes on a 71 shell with 8.4 disc set up and standard master cylinder.
If I hit the brakes hard, one front (i think) wheel locks.
Been planning to check the other caliper but could it be a balance prob.
ps most lines inside, but will look under rear again at the T junction to see if there's a bolt.
Sounds tyre pressurey to me.
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