Is there any way to make my mini work in the rain?
Discussion
bloody thing.
starts to rain on saturday and i've got to go to stoke...but as it's raining I had to take the train..and I detest public transport :mad:
so, other people I have heard drive their minis in the rain with no problems - why does mine stop after a few miles? what is the ideal setup (lumenition ignition? a plastic sheet behind the left hand side of the grill to stop spray?) there simply must be a solution, it's driving me mad!
the car lasts for about 3 miles then I have to stop and spray WD-40 liberally over the distributor and leads...it goes again but only lasts for another few miles, and puddles [i]really[/i] f**k it up :(
help! :D
starts to rain on saturday and i've got to go to stoke...but as it's raining I had to take the train..and I detest public transport :mad:
so, other people I have heard drive their minis in the rain with no problems - why does mine stop after a few miles? what is the ideal setup (lumenition ignition? a plastic sheet behind the left hand side of the grill to stop spray?) there simply must be a solution, it's driving me mad!
the car lasts for about 3 miles then I have to stop and spray WD-40 liberally over the distributor and leads...it goes again but only lasts for another few miles, and puddles [i]really[/i] f**k it up :(
help! :D
Many moons ago, when last I had a Mini, the plastic shield was the most important bit.
WD40 shifts water that's there but doesn't necessarily prevent more getting in - I used some kind of damp selant for electrics to coat every bit of wire I could find in the engine bay. Seemed to do the trick.
Still needed to wrap the engine in a blanket on foggy nights, though.
{edited for spelling}
>> Edited by pdV6 on Monday 10th October 10:14
WD40 shifts water that's there but doesn't necessarily prevent more getting in - I used some kind of damp selant for electrics to coat every bit of wire I could find in the engine bay. Seemed to do the trick.
Still needed to wrap the engine in a blanket on foggy nights, though.
{edited for spelling}
>> Edited by pdV6 on Monday 10th October 10:14
Minis have always been susceptable to water getting onto the electrics.
On my rally cars I do the following:
I clean the dizzy cap, leads and coil connections with brake cleaner (Carbon-Tetrochloryde)and dry it off with compressed air.
Then I coat the entire dizzy cap, ign. leads, coil and starter solenoid with a silicone based greas or Vaseline. Do this very liberally, use lots and dont wipe any off. Then give the entire electrical system 2 or more coats of Ignition Sealer Spray.
I can drive my rally cars through very deep water and along wet and muddy tracks withour any problems.
The other solution is to get a 'Marigold' glove, snip the ends off the fingers, fit it over the dizzy with one lead/finger. Then use some silicone grease and tie wraps to seal the leads through the fingers.
I use the first solution as if I need to remove the dizzy cap to sort out a points problem I don't have any problems doing it quickly.
The second solution can cause problems if any moisture gets inside the glove as it then has no way of evaportating off.
I hope this helps,
Peter
On my rally cars I do the following:
I clean the dizzy cap, leads and coil connections with brake cleaner (Carbon-Tetrochloryde)and dry it off with compressed air.
Then I coat the entire dizzy cap, ign. leads, coil and starter solenoid with a silicone based greas or Vaseline. Do this very liberally, use lots and dont wipe any off. Then give the entire electrical system 2 or more coats of Ignition Sealer Spray.
I can drive my rally cars through very deep water and along wet and muddy tracks withour any problems.
The other solution is to get a 'Marigold' glove, snip the ends off the fingers, fit it over the dizzy with one lead/finger. Then use some silicone grease and tie wraps to seal the leads through the fingers.
I use the first solution as if I need to remove the dizzy cap to sort out a points problem I don't have any problems doing it quickly.
The second solution can cause problems if any moisture gets inside the glove as it then has no way of evaportating off.
I hope this helps,
Peter
Later Mini's have a huge splash shield that is secured via brackets off the rocker cover and underneath - completely covers the dizzy. They are the business - I've driven my K'plater on the M6 in monsoon conditions and it has never missed a beat.
Failing being able to get hold of one of a late car, The Marigold idea is a godsend.
Failing being able to get hold of one of a late car, The Marigold idea is a godsend.
custardtart said:
Was told by John Cooper garages that the splash shield is rare as rocking horse sh*te, I'm keeping an eye out on ebay!! If you find two let me know....
But the splashguard is A LOT MORE use for keeping the ignition dry than the affore mentioned excreta from a wooden horse.
Now don't get me started on Marigolds..........oh no I've said the word, mmmmmm marigolds......
What I do, as well as what I posted earlier, is to cut a recrtangle of old rubber floor mat and fix it onto the grille right in front of the dizzy.
I don't really like the nshield on the later cars as it makes access to the front of the engie more difficult, especially when trying to get at the lower fixings in a hurry. The key to it is really the coating of the dizzy cap with a good silicone grease and the rest is just 'belt & braces'.
The only time my 'S' has stopped in water was when my navigator calle a 60 degree right and over a bridge. The bridge turned out to be a 9" deep ford through a wide-ish river. I hit it at about 45 mph+ and the wall of water stopped the car and the engine. Oh s**t. The engine wouldn't re-start until we had pushed the car out of the river (thank's spectators!) and the water had drained out of the exhaust system. It then started and ran perfectly and none got into the dizzy. Cost us 4 minutes penalty though.
I don't really like the nshield on the later cars as it makes access to the front of the engie more difficult, especially when trying to get at the lower fixings in a hurry. The key to it is really the coating of the dizzy cap with a good silicone grease and the rest is just 'belt & braces'.
The only time my 'S' has stopped in water was when my navigator calle a 60 degree right and over a bridge. The bridge turned out to be a 9" deep ford through a wide-ish river. I hit it at about 45 mph+ and the wall of water stopped the car and the engine. Oh s**t. The engine wouldn't re-start until we had pushed the car out of the river (thank's spectators!) and the water had drained out of the exhaust system. It then started and ran perfectly and none got into the dizzy. Cost us 4 minutes penalty though.
i have to admit in over 20 years of mini ownership (or mini based cars) i've never had problems with the wet.
one of the first things i used to do on a new car was to totally renew the ignition with proper lucas bit.
the last few years have been on lumenition optronic, and thats never missed a beat.
only once has the wet affected me, and that was me misjudging a ford in the middle of wales, it was far deeper than normal, due to a week of heavy rain, and the whole car nearly got washed away!
one of the first things i used to do on a new car was to totally renew the ignition with proper lucas bit.
the last few years have been on lumenition optronic, and thats never missed a beat.
only once has the wet affected me, and that was me misjudging a ford in the middle of wales, it was far deeper than normal, due to a week of heavy rain, and the whole car nearly got washed away!
I think the indiscriminate use of WD40, or similar, makes things worse.
It may well displace water when you spray it on - but it leaves a sticky residue that collects road dust & dirt which subsequently gets damp and conducts, causing shorts.
Scrupulously clean then protect as Peter says.
D
It may well displace water when you spray it on - but it leaves a sticky residue that collects road dust & dirt which subsequently gets damp and conducts, causing shorts.
Scrupulously clean then protect as Peter says.
D
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