Solid front subframe mounts
Discussion
OK, I've got a set of these:
but no idea where they fit! Or how to fit them! Or what other bits I need! I assume I need some of these as well:
Do I need anything else? Presumably I need to compress the springs to fit the tower mounts? The engine is currently out. If anyone has a link to a decent "how to" I'd be grateful!
Cheers...
but no idea where they fit! Or how to fit them! Or what other bits I need! I assume I need some of these as well:
Do I need anything else? Presumably I need to compress the springs to fit the tower mounts? The engine is currently out. If anyone has a link to a decent "how to" I'd be grateful!
Cheers...
easy
the pear shape ones fit between the frame and the front panel. the are held in with a 5/16 unf bolt.
the round ones fit between the frame and the cross member, the ones with the cut out fit between the cross member and the bolt. the raised lip fits into the crossmember.
you dont need to disturb the cone. just undo the frame at the front, remove the large bolts in the towers and jack the car up on the floor (or you can jack it up on the frame, chock the floor and let the frame back down). remove the foul rubber mounts and replace them with the alloy ones. its a good idea to grease the tower ones and to ensure that the have loctated correctley. jack the frame back into the car and replace the bolts. it is easy to cross thread the tower bolts so be steady with them. after a week check the tightness of the bolts.
id also replace the rear mounts (use rubber ones) at the same time.
it will take a couple of hours to do
the pear shape ones fit between the frame and the front panel. the are held in with a 5/16 unf bolt.
the round ones fit between the frame and the cross member, the ones with the cut out fit between the cross member and the bolt. the raised lip fits into the crossmember.
you dont need to disturb the cone. just undo the frame at the front, remove the large bolts in the towers and jack the car up on the floor (or you can jack it up on the frame, chock the floor and let the frame back down). remove the foul rubber mounts and replace them with the alloy ones. its a good idea to grease the tower ones and to ensure that the have loctated correctley. jack the frame back into the car and replace the bolts. it is easy to cross thread the tower bolts so be steady with them. after a week check the tightness of the bolts.
id also replace the rear mounts (use rubber ones) at the same time.
it will take a couple of hours to do
guru_1071 said:
the pear shape ones fit between the frame and the front panel. the are held in with a 5/16 unf bolt.
OK, I can do that.
guru_1071 said:
the round ones fit between the frame and the cross member, the ones with the cut out fit between the cross member and the bolt. the raised lip fits into the crossmember.
Crossmember? Which one? You mean at the top of the subframe "towers" where the big bolt goes? Do these bits replace the rubber diamond shape bit between the tower and the body?
What about these bits:
Do I need those too?
Thanks for the help!
Cheers Guru!My advice is to fir the rear ones as well. Otherwise the others, i.e. the front and top, will be taking all the fore and aft loads.
Just check the floor prior to bolting up the solid rears.The floors have been known to split owing to the stupid design which puts the load straight into the middle of a flat panel. The panel 'pants' and eventually splits appear around the edges of where the mounts sit. I had this on my 1990 car and the cure was to weld in some 16swg sheets, about 10" x 6", shaped to cleat where necessary. These were seam welded around the edges and plug welded through lots of 1/4" holes iin the repair plate.I fitted then plates on the outside of the car rather than the inside, ground back the welds, hit the plates with a club hammer to get the mounting position correct, then painted with Hammerite before re-fitting the sub-frame.
Just check the floor prior to bolting up the solid rears.The floors have been known to split owing to the stupid design which puts the load straight into the middle of a flat panel. The panel 'pants' and eventually splits appear around the edges of where the mounts sit. I had this on my 1990 car and the cure was to weld in some 16swg sheets, about 10" x 6", shaped to cleat where necessary. These were seam welded around the edges and plug welded through lots of 1/4" holes iin the repair plate.I fitted then plates on the outside of the car rather than the inside, ground back the welds, hit the plates with a club hammer to get the mounting position correct, then painted with Hammerite before re-fitting the sub-frame.
Plotloss said:
Its the rear ones that really transmit the extra noise and vibration you will see talked about in connection to this.
This is why some people leave them off.
I'd fit them personally the environmental effects are worth putting up with for the increase in dynamics/fun...
Agree entirely. My Mini has no soundproofing, no rear seats, no heater... really not bothered about another source of noise
Cooperman said:
...and the cure was to weld in some 16swg sheets, about 10" x 6", shaped to cleat where necessary. These were seam welded around the edges and plug welded through lots of 1/4" holes iin the repair plate.I fitted then plates on the outside of the car rather than the inside, ground back the welds...
if only I had your knowledge and ability, Peter! Cooperman said:
...hit the plates with a club hammer then painted with Hammerite...
However, this I can manage!
I'm not too bad with the old MIG welder, but my son Mike is much better than me, so he welded this up. I belted the plates with a club hammer to get back locally to the original profile so the subframe would fit easily.
Yes, you do really need to change all 6 mountings. Remember, the Mk1, Mk2 and early Mk3 cars all had rigid subframe mountings. However, the rear mountings picked up with the shell at a slightly differnt and stronger place. I've been thinking about designing a modified mount to take the load into the same place as on the early cars, i.e. into the front floor/bulkhead joint line. This is so much stronger than a mid-panel mounting.
Despite all the double skinning and welding, I still pushed the bulkhead back locally by about 1/8" during the RAC Revival rally. It's OK as the skin has not split again - yet. I guess I'll 'porta-power' it back a bit soon, but I must get my red '64 'S's gearbox fixed first. When I took the sump plug out there were lots of bits of gear teeth on it!!! More on this when I split the engine from the box. It don't look good, but it was due a new gear kit anyway, after 28 hard rallies over 9 years (5 outright Historic category wins as well, by the way).
By the way, how do I post a pic of my black car onhere?
Yes, you do really need to change all 6 mountings. Remember, the Mk1, Mk2 and early Mk3 cars all had rigid subframe mountings. However, the rear mountings picked up with the shell at a slightly differnt and stronger place. I've been thinking about designing a modified mount to take the load into the same place as on the early cars, i.e. into the front floor/bulkhead joint line. This is so much stronger than a mid-panel mounting.
Despite all the double skinning and welding, I still pushed the bulkhead back locally by about 1/8" during the RAC Revival rally. It's OK as the skin has not split again - yet. I guess I'll 'porta-power' it back a bit soon, but I must get my red '64 'S's gearbox fixed first. When I took the sump plug out there were lots of bits of gear teeth on it!!! More on this when I split the engine from the box. It don't look good, but it was due a new gear kit anyway, after 28 hard rallies over 9 years (5 outright Historic category wins as well, by the way).
By the way, how do I post a pic of my black car onhere?
How to post the picture type
[pic] www.website/picture.jpg [/pic]
You need to have somewhere to host the photos online.
jay
[pic] www.website/picture.jpg [/pic]
You need to have somewhere to host the photos online.
jay
vrooom said:
How to post the picture type
[pic] www.website/picture.jpg [/pic]
You need to have somewhere to host the photos online.
jay
I'll host it for you, Peter, just email it to james at minispecial.com
The little red car is very, very sick. I took the engine out and when I took the sump plug out to drain the oil lots of bits of gear teeth were attached to it. It's clear that it needs a complete s/c, c/r gear set, plus selectors, bearings, syncro hubs, etc, plus new drop gears and a new crownwheel and pinion (3.9:1).
With all those bits in the sump I'll have to completely strip and re-build the engine in case any have got around the block. I always change the big ends, mains and thrusts, plus the oil pump and clutch plate whenever the engine comes out.
Whilst it's in bits Chris Spennewyn is going to fit two new outer sills, the old ones are badly gashed from forest driving, new rear valence cause the existing one is a bit grotty after 28 rallies, straighten the rh front wing and front panel which got slightly bent on the last rally. Then I'll fit (yet another)new front bumper.
Next rally for the red car is the East Anglian Classic in May.
The black car is fine except for a slight crunch when going into top. So I'll just whip the lump out and fit a new syncro hub, plus a new clutch plate.
Next event for that is the Britvic Enduro Rally in June, so it's easy to get that car ready. Again a new clutch plate, especially as it has to run a nasty Verto clutch to comply with the regs.
Anyone fancy going rallying. I could be persuaded to sell the black car as I fancy something more modern for Enduro like a Corsa 1.4SRi or a Pug 106 Rallye. For someone starting rallying the black car would be ideal. It's very well prepared and equipped and you could just take it out and do relatively well.
With all those bits in the sump I'll have to completely strip and re-build the engine in case any have got around the block. I always change the big ends, mains and thrusts, plus the oil pump and clutch plate whenever the engine comes out.
Whilst it's in bits Chris Spennewyn is going to fit two new outer sills, the old ones are badly gashed from forest driving, new rear valence cause the existing one is a bit grotty after 28 rallies, straighten the rh front wing and front panel which got slightly bent on the last rally. Then I'll fit (yet another)new front bumper.
Next rally for the red car is the East Anglian Classic in May.
The black car is fine except for a slight crunch when going into top. So I'll just whip the lump out and fit a new syncro hub, plus a new clutch plate.
Next event for that is the Britvic Enduro Rally in June, so it's easy to get that car ready. Again a new clutch plate, especially as it has to run a nasty Verto clutch to comply with the regs.
Anyone fancy going rallying. I could be persuaded to sell the black car as I fancy something more modern for Enduro like a Corsa 1.4SRi or a Pug 106 Rallye. For someone starting rallying the black car would be ideal. It's very well prepared and equipped and you could just take it out and do relatively well.
Cooperman said:
I could be persuaded to sell the black car as I fancy something more modern for Enduro like a Corsa 1.4SRi or a Pug 106 Rallye. For someone starting rallying the black car would be ideal. It's very well prepared and equipped and you could just take it out and do relatively well.
Aarrrghhhh! Don't say tempting things like that!
How much do you want for it???
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