Still overfueling!,,,

[wole0911]

1993 SPI Cooper is doing my head in now...every thing checked and replaced if faulty by Mini specialist, reconditioned and warraned orig ECU refitted..... drove ok for about 10 mins then struggling to make progress then stops , leave 5 secs restart ok but struggling , stop take spark plugs out they are really sooted up , clean them then its ok again for about 10 mins..... I can see its over fueling but cant suss out why..
Phoned ECU company to see what faults they found only one MAP sensor which they cleared when it was reconditioned im at my witts end with this give me a carb car!!
Its my young sons car im not much of a mechanic but even the Mini specialist cant fathom out whats wrong any idears or pointers would be appreciated...Thanx

[GingerWizard]

I can offer nothing constructive other than find someone that is a specialist. These bloody engines are a ball ache and those that know will fix it in a jiffy, those that don't will replace everything and still be stumped.

[Banana Boy]

Have you had the injector tested? The nozzles can wear and it will stop producing the fine mist they're supposed to leading to irregular and over fuelling.

ETA: When I say tested, I mean on a jig that measures flow rate and spray pattern?

ETS: http://www.northamptonmotorsport.com/?id=95

(Link provided after minimal Google search, I am in no way affiliated with the above company)

Edited by Banana Boy on Saturday 21st March 09:59

Edited by Banana Boy on Saturday 21st March 10:03

[Hrimfaxi]

Did you check the vacuum pipes between the ECU, fuel trap and inlet manifold? The slightest/minimal nick can cause chaos. Also check the elbow joints.

If in doubt, replace the lot, it's all very cheap.

[colin_p]

Fuel pressure regulator?

[guru_1071]

how long have you had it?

has it ever had a clutch?

if the wrong clutch kit has been fitted it will alter the timing and make the car run and behave as if it is on 'full choke', so they will start, but run very fluffy as they warm up - you can test this by crudely painting some timing marks on the pulleys / belts with tipex and just checking what the advance is - if its about 25-30 degrees at tickover the wrong clutch is in it

if its not the clutch and its running rich, I would swop the lambda, as these play up, you can normally test them by starting the car from cold and going for a very steady (almost driving it in traffic) run, after five min or so as the car is warm and should be weakening off it will give a very faint misfire as the electrics try to deal with a failed lambda, after this is will run without a misfire, but just very rich

if its ticking over dead steady, its fair to assume that the map and vac pipes are fine, when these leak the revs hunt up and down, you can test the map by sucking on the vac pipe whilst the engine is running - you can make the revs go up and down by about 500rpm, so you know the map is ok.

spis, run very well and are very simple to diagnose problems, the mpi's on the other hand - the devils work!

[wole0911]

Thanx for your comments ive booked it into mini specialist on wednessday...if I had any hair I would be out by now!!!

[pilbeam_mp62]

You said it in your first post....."give me a carb car"

Just do the conversion and say goodbye to this type of problem. Simple is better.
Best of luck, whatever you decide to do.

[guru_1071]

pilbeam_mp62 said:

You said it in your first post....."give me a carb car"

Just do the conversion and say goodbye to this type of problem. Simple is better.
Best of luck, whatever you decide to do.

in many ways this is a backwards step, lots of people get confused by the workings of a HIF44 and make a real mess of tuning the cars.

the spi set up is fantastic when its working right, and is very reliable, far more reliable than the carb set up that went before (and I say this as very much a 'carb & dizzy' man!)