Clutch

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Discussion

Skyedriver

Original Poster:

18,831 posts

289 months

Saturday 20th September 2014
quotequote all
Had a good day at Harewood Hill, drove home turned off the motorway, and couldn't select a gear.I can see that the throw stop has disappeared, that'll be the noise as I passed Leeming....
All the hydraulics work, the arm moves, the rod goes in and out of the housing. Think I must have damaged something inside the housing - release bearing?
The manual says I can do the clutch insitu, where do I get the magic spanners to reach the bottom bolts ...






woodypup59

629 posts

159 months

Sunday 21st September 2014
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Work what shape you need and bend a 1/2" spanner in the vice.

Take out the engine mount to subframe bolts and jack that side up - watch you dont squash the radiator tho.

When you re-assemble, leave the two hidden bolts out.

GTRMikie

872 posts

255 months

Sunday 21st September 2014
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woodypup59 said:
When you re-assemble, leave the two hidden bolts out.
When I took delivery of a Swiftune built engine and gearbox unit some years ago, I noticed that those two bolts were missing. Thinking this was poor quality control on the part of Swiftune, I screwed in some bolts and mounted the engine in the car. Several years later, when I came to renew the clutch, I realised why those two bolts had been left out!

Skyedriver

Original Poster:

18,831 posts

289 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Guys
David Taylor gave me the tip about the two bolts and the engine mount yesterday at Harewood
Been a good season for him PB yesterday afternoon.

annodomini2

6,907 posts

258 months

Monday 22nd September 2014
quotequote all
woodypup59 said:
Work what shape you need and bend a 1/2" spanner in the vice.

Take out the engine mount to subframe bolts and jack that side up - watch you dont squash the radiator tho.

When you re-assemble, leave the two hidden bolts out.
Use an 11mm flexi-head ratchet spanner and put the bolts back in.

Skyedriver

Original Poster:

18,831 posts

289 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
Well I have removed the clutch cover, the release bearing was jammed onto the plunger, the O ring a bit distorted.
What do you reckon, my own guess is that with the stop and locknut gone the plunger has gone in too far, pressed the release bearing so hard onto the fingers of the pressure plate and the release bearing has given up as as result.
Do you think I've done any lasting damage to the pressure plate or friction plate?
Starting a shopping list.....
Forgot to add, it's a verto


Edited by Skyedriver on Friday 26th September 22:06

annodomini2

6,907 posts

258 months

Monday 29th September 2014
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Change the clutch, you've got it apart (albeit you still need to remove the flywheel). You know it's right then, oh and change the oil seal behind the flywheel.

Skyedriver

Original Poster:

18,831 posts

289 months

Wednesday 1st October 2014
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Well I tried just replacing the release bearing (and various clevis pins, plunger, stop, bolts etc) but no joy.
Still wont go into gear with the clutch depressed (like me).
THere's a strange clattery crunchy noise too which I'm beginning to wonder if I've ripped the centre out of the clutch plate or stripped the drop gears!
The pullers on the flywheel (why do i need to remove the flywheel to get the pressure plate and friction plate off) but so far no joy, I remember the last time I removed it I just about needed dynamite. Looks like an engine out job again.

woodypup59

629 posts

159 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
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If the flywheel has NEVER been off, they can be well wedged on.

But if its been off before, I expect it not to be such a cow, provided a previous mender has loctited it or WHY.

But you will be a decent puller, slim-line if you're working in the car. Sometimes, leaving it under tension overnight will do it. Sometimes smacking the centre boss with two hammers, with it under tension, will do it. Some times a bit of heat.

Obviously funny noises are not good.

But as you've lost the throwout stop nuts, its possible that the thrust washers either side of the centre main bearing cap have been overloaded and are worn out.

If you do end stripping the engine check this carefully.

Skyedriver

Original Poster:

18,831 posts

289 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
quotequote all
woodypup59 said:
If the flywheel has NEVER been off, they can be well wedged on.

But if its been off before, I expect it not to be such a cow, provided a previous mender has loctited it or WHY.

But you will be a decent puller, slim-line if you're working in the car. Sometimes, leaving it under tension overnight will do it. Sometimes smacking the centre boss with two hammers, with it under tension, will do it. Some times a bit of heat.

Obviously funny noises are not good.

But as you've lost the throwout stop nuts, its possible that the thrust washers either side of the centre main bearing cap have been overloaded and are worn out.

If you do end stripping the engine check this carefully.
Flywheel has been off before, I did that and didn't locktite it or anything. it was a pig to get off then when the lump was on the floor. Now its in the car and there's little clearance between the puller and the inner wing. At least its a Clubby!
left the puller on in tension last night and for the foreseeable future....
Not much room to clout it though, just look at it and swear.
I'll look at the thrusts if I ever get the t**t apart.
I've come to expect the unexpected with this car over the years.

annodomini2

6,907 posts

258 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
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1st rule of removing the flywheel, make sure the puller is on straight, same number of turns for each bolt.

If it's slightly out it will wedge into the crank and not budge.

Skyedriver

Original Poster:

18,831 posts

289 months

Sunday 5th October 2014
quotequote all
All bolts fully home and square
Centre bolt tightened with a 24" breaker bar, f/wheel locked with a (now bent) 18" tyre lever.
Just walked away from it, if this thing does go it'll be through the garage wall...