steering colum
Discussion
There is play in my steering colum where it joins the rack. The steering wheel can be pulled towars your chest with about 5mm of play.
It seems to me that the colum pinch bolt might be to thin. (i.e. not filling the groove in the rack spline). Having nothing at hand to compare it with, what size should the pinch bolt be? If the rack needs changing any particular supplier recomended and are re-con jobs any good?
Cheers
Huw
It seems to me that the colum pinch bolt might be to thin. (i.e. not filling the groove in the rack spline). Having nothing at hand to compare it with, what size should the pinch bolt be? If the rack needs changing any particular supplier recomended and are re-con jobs any good?
Cheers
Huw
yep. Done up as tight as i dare go. is it common for the groove in the rack input where the bolt sits to wear. the bolt looks to be not far off 1/4 inch and not small enouph to create the ammount of play I am seeing.
Will try the corret bolt though as at less than a quid it is worth a try.
Cheers
Huw
Will try the corret bolt though as at less than a quid it is worth a try.
Cheers
Huw
It's unusual for the splined joint to have any play even when a bolt other than the correct one is used, so long as it is nipped up tight. I've never had this even on rally cars. If the play is in the rack then get it changed smartish!
Re-con racks from reputable dealers like Mini Spares are always fine and whilst changing it, it is worth changing the track rod ends for the small additional cost.
Tip: When the sub-frame is lowered to remove the rack it's worth checking the floor where the sub-frame mounts onto the bulkhead. The floor is a bit weak there and often splits due to sub-frame loading, particularly if rubber sub-frame mounts are still fitted. If the floor is split, or looks weak, weld in some 16swg steel reinforcing plates, approximately 9" x 6" by seam welding and plug welding. Then re-drill for the rack U-bolts after painting. I always use a bit of bathroom sealer between the mounts and the floor to keep out the wet and prevent further rusting there.
It's all a quite simple job once the exhaust system, top engine steady and a few connections are disconnected. You don't need to drop the rear of the sub-frame very far, about 2" at the back is sufficient.
Let me know if you need anything further on this.
For costing, allow about £50 for everything including new rack and solid mountings.
It'll really steer and handle then.
Peter
In any case when doing this job replace the rubber mountings with metal ones throughout. It is easy and quick and improves the handling enormously.
Re-con racks from reputable dealers like Mini Spares are always fine and whilst changing it, it is worth changing the track rod ends for the small additional cost.
Tip: When the sub-frame is lowered to remove the rack it's worth checking the floor where the sub-frame mounts onto the bulkhead. The floor is a bit weak there and often splits due to sub-frame loading, particularly if rubber sub-frame mounts are still fitted. If the floor is split, or looks weak, weld in some 16swg steel reinforcing plates, approximately 9" x 6" by seam welding and plug welding. Then re-drill for the rack U-bolts after painting. I always use a bit of bathroom sealer between the mounts and the floor to keep out the wet and prevent further rusting there.
It's all a quite simple job once the exhaust system, top engine steady and a few connections are disconnected. You don't need to drop the rear of the sub-frame very far, about 2" at the back is sufficient.
Let me know if you need anything further on this.
For costing, allow about £50 for everything including new rack and solid mountings.
It'll really steer and handle then.
Peter
In any case when doing this job replace the rubber mountings with metal ones throughout. It is easy and quick and improves the handling enormously.
i had exactly the same problem, totally did my head in, and its an mot failure. I thought it was down to an incorrect bolt. I cant 100% remember the exact solution now but i think the steering column just wasnt clamping on hard enough no matter how tight the bolt. I think i ran a hack saw blade down the slit to open it up a bit, then just tightened the bolt.
guru_1071 said:
i think the problem is also made worse with the none OE new and recon racks that are avalible now, they do not have the flat groove, rather they have a groove machined right round the splined shaft, this seems to be a little bit bigger than the factory groove.
gurus right, reman racks with full groove are pants, changed for new rack nd correct bolt for exactly that reason, now okey dokey,you wouldnt want it to spin would you OUCH ! yup nd solid mount while ur in there big diferance.
Cheers for the info. Looks like I have a re-con rack with the groove all of the way round.
Just one last query. can the back of the subframe still be dropped the required amount if it is already solid mounted? Or would it be safer to do a subframe out job.
As for welding the floor to strengthen it I have a small problem in that my car is fiberglass.
Cheers again for all the info, will let you know haw it goes.
Later
Huw
Just one last query. can the back of the subframe still be dropped the required amount if it is already solid mounted? Or would it be safer to do a subframe out job.
As for welding the floor to strengthen it I have a small problem in that my car is fiberglass.
Cheers again for all the info, will let you know haw it goes.
Later
Huw
you can drop the frame, but will have to loosen the front mounts as well, i always take the shockers off as well as this seems to let the frame drop a little more. some people leave them on - personal choice i guess. the rack is still a wriggle to get out but its quicker than dropping the lot out.
the quickest ive ever done a rack swop was just under a hour, this was on a fairly new built race car, with a pit and a whole load of adrenaline - as a comparison the last one a did was on a scabby old oily stinky 1972 mini that took about three hours of messing about swearing, bleeding, hunting for spanners for the b@sterdised nuts and bolts previous owners had used to hold the thing together!!
dont forget the little felt seal (21A30) and the nylon strips that go on the u bolts - these help stop water comming in the car and stop the rack moving left to right!
:-)
good luck
the quickest ive ever done a rack swop was just under a hour, this was on a fairly new built race car, with a pit and a whole load of adrenaline - as a comparison the last one a did was on a scabby old oily stinky 1972 mini that took about three hours of messing about swearing, bleeding, hunting for spanners for the b@sterdised nuts and bolts previous owners had used to hold the thing together!!
dont forget the little felt seal (21A30) and the nylon strips that go on the u bolts - these help stop water comming in the car and stop the rack moving left to right!
:-)
good luck
huwbertus said:
There is play in my steering colum where it joins the rack. The steering wheel can be pulled towars your chest with about 5mm of play.
It seems to me that the colum pinch bolt might be to thin. (i.e. not filling the groove in the rack spline). Having nothing at hand to compare it with, what size should the pinch bolt be? If the rack needs changing any particular supplier recomended and are re-con jobs any good?
Cheers
Huw
Check that the slot in steering column is not closed as sometimes the column has been overtightened in the past. Its made from a relatively soft material and to cure the problem just remove the pinch bolt and top column support to remove the column and then use a hacksaw to widen the slot. It sounds a bit crude but it will cure the problem. Dont forget to use anew bolt
Agreed, you really don't want to take any risks in this area. If the splines are left loose long enough they will wear to the point that they won't lock together anymore, and suddenly you have no steering.
On a simmilar note, when putting a rack back into the car. make absolutely sure the U bolts are seated in the rack and that they are exactly at 90 degrees to the bulkhead. It's possible to tighten them up with the rack shifted to one side slighty, and when you hit the first bump the rack moves accross and flaps around in it's (now loose) mountings.
There are few things that give a more pant filling experience than sudden loss of steering.
On a simmilar note, when putting a rack back into the car. make absolutely sure the U bolts are seated in the rack and that they are exactly at 90 degrees to the bulkhead. It's possible to tighten them up with the rack shifted to one side slighty, and when you hit the first bump the rack moves accross and flaps around in it's (now loose) mountings.
There are few things that give a more pant filling experience than sudden loss of steering.
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