Bottom ball joint help please
Discussion
Last MoT there was an advisory on the bottom ball joint.
Having done the steering rack and welded in a repair to the front panel I thought "oh go on then"
So it all easily came apart
There was no obvious play once removed from the bottom arm, once apart, but here we go.
Messed around with the shims until I felt it was about right then put in the spring.
Everything just bound up, couldn't even get the top down onto the shims.
Problem seems to be that the new spring is about 3mm longer than the old one.
When I first saw this I just thought " wear and tear" but now I'm not so sure.
re use the old spring?
Having done the steering rack and welded in a repair to the front panel I thought "oh go on then"
So it all easily came apart
There was no obvious play once removed from the bottom arm, once apart, but here we go.
Messed around with the shims until I felt it was about right then put in the spring.
Everything just bound up, couldn't even get the top down onto the shims.
Problem seems to be that the new spring is about 3mm longer than the old one.
When I first saw this I just thought " wear and tear" but now I'm not so sure.
re use the old spring?
Hi,
If you are working with the swivel hub still attached to the top arm is it possible that the pin seat (the small piece which bears against the spring and pin) has got out of line and is jamming the whole thing? You have done everything correctly by shimming without the spring - did you fully tighten the cup without the spring to check the play? Normally once the shimming has been done, it's just a matter of pulling apart, fitting the spring and then reassembly, but I have had that situation where the cup will not even engage the thread when the seat has got in the wrong position. If you centralise the seat on the spring with some grease and carefully fit all the other bits it usually comes good in the end. I suppose it is possible that the new spring is wrong - I think I might have a new genuine kit in the workshop - I'll measure the spring length when I get the chance.
Ian
If you are working with the swivel hub still attached to the top arm is it possible that the pin seat (the small piece which bears against the spring and pin) has got out of line and is jamming the whole thing? You have done everything correctly by shimming without the spring - did you fully tighten the cup without the spring to check the play? Normally once the shimming has been done, it's just a matter of pulling apart, fitting the spring and then reassembly, but I have had that situation where the cup will not even engage the thread when the seat has got in the wrong position. If you centralise the seat on the spring with some grease and carefully fit all the other bits it usually comes good in the end. I suppose it is possible that the new spring is wrong - I think I might have a new genuine kit in the workshop - I'll measure the spring length when I get the chance.
Ian
I made this mistake just last week (thus proving that even us 'old guys' do stupid things still!!!
if the cup 'cockles' in its seat it will dig in, and as its miles harder than the hub it will leave two witness marks which then prevent the cup from sitting correctly again - then its impossible to get the outer case of the ball joint to sit flush with the face of the hub.
I had to use a pair of grip to pull the cup out the hub, then a dremmel to reface the hole that the cup goes in - it was an easy fix, and an easy mistake to make.
if the cup 'cockles' in its seat it will dig in, and as its miles harder than the hub it will leave two witness marks which then prevent the cup from sitting correctly again - then its impossible to get the outer case of the ball joint to sit flush with the face of the hub.
I had to use a pair of grip to pull the cup out the hub, then a dremmel to reface the hole that the cup goes in - it was an easy fix, and an easy mistake to make.
Hi
Working with the hub still on the car - split both ball joints and track rod end and rotated the hub 180 degrees for easy access.
Im sure the cup is seated correctly but there is about a 3mm gap between the seat and the cap when things start to get tight.
I'll get myself out there again tomorrow night and try again, or tonight after doing the dishes!
Strange that the gap is the same as the additional length of spring.
Working with the hub still on the car - split both ball joints and track rod end and rotated the hub 180 degrees for easy access.
Im sure the cup is seated correctly but there is about a 3mm gap between the seat and the cap when things start to get tight.
I'll get myself out there again tomorrow night and try again, or tonight after doing the dishes!
Strange that the gap is the same as the additional length of spring.
Back again from the pile of spares in the workshop,
unfortunately not a spring to be seen - must be looking in the wrong place, as usual, I was sure I had some new Uniprat kits - probably in a box marked Jag bits. If you temporarily refit the old spring and it does the same, then it's going to be 'out with the Dremel' as Guru says.
Ian
unfortunately not a spring to be seen - must be looking in the wrong place, as usual, I was sure I had some new Uniprat kits - probably in a box marked Jag bits. If you temporarily refit the old spring and it does the same, then it's going to be 'out with the Dremel' as Guru says.
Ian
All back together again
Thanks for all guidance
Seemed the spring was holding the cup right at the top of the socket and the slightest movement pushed it out.
Careful refitting got me there.
The stem is a bit stiff in movement,book says that it should be free, it isn't but it's no worse than the top one.
New rack in, wheels on, in and out of the garage.
Turned around and now for the handbrake quadrants and sub frame undersealing of the bare patches.
Might need this in a hurry after an "episode" with the ol' Volvo yesterday......
Thanks for all guidance
Seemed the spring was holding the cup right at the top of the socket and the slightest movement pushed it out.
Careful refitting got me there.
The stem is a bit stiff in movement,book says that it should be free, it isn't but it's no worse than the top one.
New rack in, wheels on, in and out of the garage.
Turned around and now for the handbrake quadrants and sub frame undersealing of the bare patches.
Might need this in a hurry after an "episode" with the ol' Volvo yesterday......
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