What to pay for a decent 998 mini?
Discussion
Son just coming up to 17, starting to think about licence/first car, got hooked on the idea of a classic mini. Not the best choice in my view, VW Lupo or something would be a more sensible choice, but life isn't always about being sensible. So ... what would we need to budget to reliably get a solid, structurally sound 998 mini. Looking around, classic minis are much more expensive than I expected and I'm not sure whether, say, 2K will get me something I can be confident in. There seem to be more 1275/1.3s around but I guess the insurance will be more on those. Also, where to buy - are there any well known specialists who deal in the 'sensibly priced' bracket?
Any advice/links welcome.
Dave
My Grandson was 17 last year when he passed his test. He and I had re-built a 1997 Cooper 1275 MPI which he bought for £1600. It needed a lot of serious body-work doing including new front wings, new front panel, new screen scuttle inner & outer, repair to top of front bulkhead, new A-panels, new inner & outer sills, 1/2 a boot floor and new rear valence, some patch repairs in the floors and one new door skin. Then, of course, it needed re-painting at a cost of £1200.
For £2000 expect to have some body panel welding with new panels.
That is without any mechanical work.
For a first car a classic car is not really ideal and my Grandson bought a Fiesta 1.25 for £1000 when the gearbox, which we didn't re-build, started falling out of gear, so that he could get to work whilst the Mini was off the road and the Fiesta is just so much more practical as a road car.
The MPI is now for sale having had a re-built gearbox and some engine work for £5250 ONO.
You need deep pockets to use a classic Mini as an everyday car, as would be the case with any other classic such as a Ford Anglia, for example. It is a 55 year old design, after all.
For £2000 expect to have some body panel welding with new panels.
That is without any mechanical work.
For a first car a classic car is not really ideal and my Grandson bought a Fiesta 1.25 for £1000 when the gearbox, which we didn't re-build, started falling out of gear, so that he could get to work whilst the Mini was off the road and the Fiesta is just so much more practical as a road car.
The MPI is now for sale having had a re-built gearbox and some engine work for £5250 ONO.
You need deep pockets to use a classic Mini as an everyday car, as would be the case with any other classic such as a Ford Anglia, for example. It is a 55 year old design, after all.
Mini's tend to come in many forms, but typically:
1. Completely past it basket case.
2. Part finished project, usually needing bodywork.
3. MOT'd but needing bodywork.
4. MOT'd, claimed sound, but needing bodywork.
5. Claimed restored, charging a fortune, actually lots of filler and paint.
6. Claimed bare metal resto (that they actually did 7 years ago, badly), but as 5, painted and filled to shift.
7. Honest cars, which should be what you want.
8. Professional show grade resto's, costing megabucks.
Mini's are mechanically relatively simple, the main issue is the bodywork.
If the lad isn't mechanically minded and has no inclination to learn to do it themselves, then direct them towards something else.
Mini's, being an older design, require more maintenance than a modern car and if he's not doing it himself, then garage bills will build up. Parts are fairly cheap, but with the prices of labour at garages, this will be the main cost. Probably offsetting any benefits in insurance reductions.
That being said, if he's willing to learn, try the local mini club. Join, go along and get to know people, let him get an understanding of what he's getting himself in for!
The other benefit with club owned cars, as the owners (generally) know what is required with a Mini and how to maintain them, they will have been maintained and not treated like a modern shopping box.
The club will also probably be the best contacts for finding the right car at the right price.
Mini's are good fun, but they are a labour of love and you need to make sure:
1. You don't buy a basket case
2. He isn't going to get disinterested after a month.
1. Completely past it basket case.
2. Part finished project, usually needing bodywork.
3. MOT'd but needing bodywork.
4. MOT'd, claimed sound, but needing bodywork.
5. Claimed restored, charging a fortune, actually lots of filler and paint.
6. Claimed bare metal resto (that they actually did 7 years ago, badly), but as 5, painted and filled to shift.
7. Honest cars, which should be what you want.
8. Professional show grade resto's, costing megabucks.
Mini's are mechanically relatively simple, the main issue is the bodywork.
If the lad isn't mechanically minded and has no inclination to learn to do it themselves, then direct them towards something else.
Mini's, being an older design, require more maintenance than a modern car and if he's not doing it himself, then garage bills will build up. Parts are fairly cheap, but with the prices of labour at garages, this will be the main cost. Probably offsetting any benefits in insurance reductions.
That being said, if he's willing to learn, try the local mini club. Join, go along and get to know people, let him get an understanding of what he's getting himself in for!
The other benefit with club owned cars, as the owners (generally) know what is required with a Mini and how to maintain them, they will have been maintained and not treated like a modern shopping box.
The club will also probably be the best contacts for finding the right car at the right price.
Mini's are good fun, but they are a labour of love and you need to make sure:
1. You don't buy a basket case
2. He isn't going to get disinterested after a month.
After having several minis during my youth, I bought my son a Mayfair to learn to drive in. He is now hooked on minis, and he currently has a MPI, which has cost me a fortune in re-sprays, body work, and mechanicals. My sone is now 23, the car is great, but I end up doing the spattering. They are a labour of love and if you just want a car that works, get a euro box. If you want something to spend hours working on, get a mini :-)
Got to agree with all of the above,unless you are extremely lucky a realistic budget for a nice 998 Mini that doesn't want a fortune spending on it would be around £4000,however,you need to be wary even at this money as there are still so many tarted up dogs out there.
You need to develop a relationship with someone who knows the cars inside out,before you part with your hard earned!!
Look at as many restoration threads as possible to gain an idea of where to look for rot (literally everywhere) and decide what age of car you would want to be buying.
Pre '84 shells tend to be better steel than post '84
Pre '84 shells rot most in the sill's floorpans door posts a panels front wings and front panel.
Post '84 shells rot there plus everywhere else too........
The idea of owning a Mini is great,the reality is often not......
You need to develop a relationship with someone who knows the cars inside out,before you part with your hard earned!!
Look at as many restoration threads as possible to gain an idea of where to look for rot (literally everywhere) and decide what age of car you would want to be buying.
Pre '84 shells tend to be better steel than post '84
Pre '84 shells rot most in the sill's floorpans door posts a panels front wings and front panel.
Post '84 shells rot there plus everywhere else too........
The idea of owning a Mini is great,the reality is often not......
I'd seriously suggest looking at some of the kit cars such as the Midas or GTM both Mini based and the Midas in particular is an ideal first timers car. it's all GRP so nothing rusts and it's practical too having doors and a roof plus a good sized boot. At a squeeze it's a 2+2 also though the rear passengers have to be midgets.
You'll also find insurance is a fraction of a rot box too. Seriously have a look at the kits there's a lot to be said for them I built my first when I was 17 and drove it everyday for over 11 years. Re insurance my first kit was a 2 litre open top and it cost me half the price my mates were paying for their 1100 Escort Poplars
Right now you can pick up kits far cheaper than classic Minis
You'll also find insurance is a fraction of a rot box too. Seriously have a look at the kits there's a lot to be said for them I built my first when I was 17 and drove it everyday for over 11 years. Re insurance my first kit was a 2 litre open top and it cost me half the price my mates were paying for their 1100 Escort Poplars
Right now you can pick up kits far cheaper than classic Minis
Thanks for the advice, I think it has confirmed what I suspected. One of the problems is that now I'M starting to like the idea of a classic mini too! I guess at the end of the day 17 year old students don't wholly depend on a car, so maybe this is the best time to have a car that needs attention, not the worst. I will look at raising the budget and start researching ....
dave
dave
davegr said:
Thanks for the advice, I think it has confirmed what I suspected. One of the problems is that now I'M starting to like the idea of a classic mini too! I guess at the end of the day 17 year old students don't wholly depend on a car, so maybe this is the best time to have a car that needs attention, not the worst. I will look at raising the budget and start researching ....
dave
Oh and they take over the house, if the partner and any other family members can't tolerate them, then expect ruptions.dave
There will be parts everywhere.
davegr said:
Thanks for the advice, I think it has confirmed what I suspected. One of the problems is that now I'M starting to like the idea of a classic mini too! I guess at the end of the day 17 year old students don't wholly depend on a car, so maybe this is the best time to have a car that needs attention, not the worst. I will look at raising the budget and start researching ....
dave
Dave, I can do you a cracker of a car, just what you are looking for, dave
annodomini's list is spot on. We all want cars as per item 7 as we cant afford those in item 8, 2 and 3 are ok if youre prepared for a project, at least you know what youve got. Unfortunately the majority are in the 4, 5 and 6 catagory, which means you pay more and have as much if not more work to do, than those in 2/3.
It doesnt matter what you pay you can still end up with a dud - needing loads of welding. Its easy to make them shiney on the outside and with an mot can seem like a good buy. Then its down to your heart easily over ruling your head, so you part with the cash.
It doesnt matter what you pay you can still end up with a dud - needing loads of welding. Its easy to make them shiney on the outside and with an mot can seem like a good buy. Then its down to your heart easily over ruling your head, so you part with the cash.
Hello!
I've just bought a 1990 998 City E with 86k on the clock for £2k, think it fits into item 4 in the above list as has MOT, motor and underside are all sound but i'm gonna have to address the doors and A-panels sooner rather than later. the passenger door skin has actually started to come loose from the frame at the bottom.
I've just bought a 1990 998 City E with 86k on the clock for £2k, think it fits into item 4 in the above list as has MOT, motor and underside are all sound but i'm gonna have to address the doors and A-panels sooner rather than later. the passenger door skin has actually started to come loose from the frame at the bottom.
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