Mini Radiator and Timing
Discussion
Finally had to give in an replace the rad today! 
Leaking Rad by Ben Magee Creative Arts, on Flickr
Old Rad by Ben Magee Creative Arts, on Flickr
Can't believe how much they cost these days either! £58 from Minispares! Locally I could have paid up to £115+VAT!!!
That was the easy bit, had a look at the timing too which has felt off for a little while?
It was, a full 10-12 ATDC off!!! No wonder it was a pig to start and feeling sluggish! probably shouldn't have run at all in theory?
Thing is the securing bolt was tight and I know it hadn't moved since the last time I set it - but strangely I remember the last time I set the timing (after changing points and condenser) I remember checking it a number of times as the 'correct' position had moved from where it normally sits? Now I have adjusted it back to what I would consider it's normal position?
Is this a potential warning sign of a worn distributor/vacuum advance or did I do/not do something last time to set it wrongly?
She's proper again now, starts lovely and pulls with all 40(ish)hp!
Leaking Rad by Ben Magee Creative Arts, on Flickr
Old Rad by Ben Magee Creative Arts, on Flickr
Can't believe how much they cost these days either! £58 from Minispares! Locally I could have paid up to £115+VAT!!!
That was the easy bit, had a look at the timing too which has felt off for a little while?
It was, a full 10-12 ATDC off!!! No wonder it was a pig to start and feeling sluggish! probably shouldn't have run at all in theory?
Thing is the securing bolt was tight and I know it hadn't moved since the last time I set it - but strangely I remember the last time I set the timing (after changing points and condenser) I remember checking it a number of times as the 'correct' position had moved from where it normally sits? Now I have adjusted it back to what I would consider it's normal position?
Is this a potential warning sign of a worn distributor/vacuum advance or did I do/not do something last time to set it wrongly?
She's proper again now, starts lovely and pulls with all 40(ish)hp!
There is a technical expression to describe your old radiator. It begins with an 'F' and ends in 'ooked'!
Check the distributor for slop in the spindle. For basic setting you could set it at 6 degrees BTDC static, then 'swing' it a bit each way when it's running and drive it until it just 'pinks' at full throttle at about 2000 to 2500 rpm and again at 4000 rpm. Back it off from the point at which it just starts to 'pink' but about 2 degrees. That is the old fashioned way of doing it, but it works OK.
Check the distributor for slop in the spindle. For basic setting you could set it at 6 degrees BTDC static, then 'swing' it a bit each way when it's running and drive it until it just 'pinks' at full throttle at about 2000 to 2500 rpm and again at 4000 rpm. Back it off from the point at which it just starts to 'pink' but about 2 degrees. That is the old fashioned way of doing it, but it works OK.
Cooperman said:
There is a technical expression to describe your old radiator. It begins with an 'F' and ends in 'ooked'!
Check the distributor for slop in the spindle. For basic setting you could set it at 6 degrees BTDC static, then 'swing' it a bit each way when it's running and drive it until it just 'pinks' at full throttle at about 2000 to 2500 rpm and again at 4000 rpm. Back it off from the point at which it just starts to 'pink' but about 2 degrees. That is the old fashioned way of doing it, but it works OK.
Check the distributor for slop in the spindle. For basic setting you could set it at 6 degrees BTDC static, then 'swing' it a bit each way when it's running and drive it until it just 'pinks' at full throttle at about 2000 to 2500 rpm and again at 4000 rpm. Back it off from the point at which it just starts to 'pink' but about 2 degrees. That is the old fashioned way of doing it, but it works OK.
I am a skin flint so I do try to get the very last mile out of everything!Might have another look at the dizzy see what's happening in there?
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