Discussion
Bare minimum would be to take the head off to check the condition of the bores. No scoring/wear steps etc. personally I'd strip it and check oil pump(renew) and shells. I really wouldn't drop an engine in without proving its condition/provenance etc. Engine in and then out again because it won't run or hold oil pressure? No thanks. Could be a whole bag load of work for nothing!
Yes, Split the engine and box,check the main support bearings in the gearbox,condition of the synchro's,check the condition of the diff pin,(make sure it has the thrust block in it,clean all the solid sludge out of the bottom,remove the pistons,glaze bust the bores and fit a set of new rings,check the valve guides and deffo put in a new set of valve stem oil seals and as other people have said renew oil pump,gaskets,seals etc because 5 years of standing won't have done it any good.....
Basically rebuild it properly before you fit it in the car,then you don't have to remove it and rebuild it when you fitted it to the car......
Basically rebuild it properly before you fit it in the car,then you don't have to remove it and rebuild it when you fitted it to the car......
This all makes me feel a little slack as I've put several in with bare minimum work and all has been well. In my defence though I usually remove them, so hear them run or drive them first, or at least from a well trusted source. In fact the engine currently in my Mk1 came out of a farmyard Metro and had been sat for a few years, a couple with no manifolds too. I rebuilt the head and put a little oil down the (near perfect) bores and has been sweet as a nut That said we knew it had done 40k when it was fitted to that Metro and had heard it running before it was parked. It was a chance and I got lucky.
Just depends whether you want to roll the dice or not
Just depends whether you want to roll the dice or not
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