Discussion
As far as I know, you need to separate the driveshaft from the gearbox. You'll need to remove the wheels, and then split the 3 ball joints (hub top and bottom joint and steering arm joint) then split the joint from the gearbox - you can do this with a tyre lever, or there is a specific tool. I normally use a screwdriver.
Then you need to remove the old boot, and fit a new one, which is pretty simple.
There may be a way of doing it without splitting the driveshaft and gearbox that I don't know about. You can buy boots from Halfords that are not joined together - you put them round the driveshaft then stick the 2 sides together with glue. Not sure they are much good, to be honest.
Then you need to remove the old boot, and fit a new one, which is pretty simple.
There may be a way of doing it without splitting the driveshaft and gearbox that I don't know about. You can buy boots from Halfords that are not joined together - you put them round the driveshaft then stick the 2 sides together with glue. Not sure they are much good, to be honest.
Miniman is quite right. The Halford 'wrap round and glue' ones are about as much use as a chocolate fireguard!
As MM says, you undo the top & bottom swivel pins, the track rod end and the big nut on the end of the driveshaft, I usually also remove the brake caliper and move it out of the way. If you do that you are less likely to get any grease on the disc or pads.
Then just pull the shaft out, leaving the 'pot' part of the inner CV still in the gearbox. That means the oill doesn't come out.
Remove the small spring clip on the end of the shaft and carefully tap off the inner joint with a mallet, being careful not to lose the ball bearings. Slide the new gaiter over the end of the shaft, clean then re-fit the part that goes onto the shaft and load the balls back in using moly grease. Clean out the inner pot joint thoroughly and re-pack with moly grease. Re-fit the shaft into the pot, re-build the outer end (it's a good time to re-shim the swivel pins if necessary). Once the shaft is in place, slide the new gaiter over the pot joint and use either tie wraps, locking wire or try those horrible clips to ensure it all seals up.
Don't forget to tighten up the outer nut to 150 lb.ft. and fit the split pin.
I hope all this helps,
Peter
As MM says, you undo the top & bottom swivel pins, the track rod end and the big nut on the end of the driveshaft, I usually also remove the brake caliper and move it out of the way. If you do that you are less likely to get any grease on the disc or pads.
Then just pull the shaft out, leaving the 'pot' part of the inner CV still in the gearbox. That means the oill doesn't come out.
Remove the small spring clip on the end of the shaft and carefully tap off the inner joint with a mallet, being careful not to lose the ball bearings. Slide the new gaiter over the end of the shaft, clean then re-fit the part that goes onto the shaft and load the balls back in using moly grease. Clean out the inner pot joint thoroughly and re-pack with moly grease. Re-fit the shaft into the pot, re-build the outer end (it's a good time to re-shim the swivel pins if necessary). Once the shaft is in place, slide the new gaiter over the pot joint and use either tie wraps, locking wire or try those horrible clips to ensure it all seals up.
Don't forget to tighten up the outer nut to 150 lb.ft. and fit the split pin.
I hope all this helps,
Peter
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