Worst Job on a Mini
Discussion
From the earlier suggestion, let's post what we think are the worst jobs on a Mini then suggest ways of making them easier.
I'll start with the clevis pins/split pins on the brake and clutch master cylinders. I use 'R'-pins' to replace the split pins when re-assembling, but you must take care to ensure that the clevis pins don't roll along the box section across the bulkhead. You also need some long-nosed pliars.
I'll start with the clevis pins/split pins on the brake and clutch master cylinders. I use 'R'-pins' to replace the split pins when re-assembling, but you must take care to ensure that the clevis pins don't roll along the box section across the bulkhead. You also need some long-nosed pliars.
Ahh, just thought of a worse one.
Undoing the nuts that hold the top arms into the subframe. If the subframe is still in the car this is an absolute pig, especially on the near side.
I couldnt find an easy way of doing them back up (well the little bolts that hold the thrust plate on anyway).
Any tips?
Undoing the nuts that hold the top arms into the subframe. If the subframe is still in the car this is an absolute pig, especially on the near side.
I couldnt find an easy way of doing them back up (well the little bolts that hold the thrust plate on anyway).
Any tips?
Replacing rear subframe. On the face of it a straight forward job, but it nearly always ends in a monumental struggle with rusted and sheared bolts, and the ever present risk of discovering more rot you didn't know about.
Trying to reach the clutch housing bolt that is down next to the bulkhead if you have large hands (that's if it hasn't already been left out by a previous owner!).
The abolute worst job must be trying to fix the hideous bodges that a previous owner has inflicted upon the poor car. Slabs of filler, rounded off/stripped nuts and bolts, chopped about wiring loom etc.
Trying to reach the clutch housing bolt that is down next to the bulkhead if you have large hands (that's if it hasn't already been left out by a previous owner!).
The abolute worst job must be trying to fix the hideous bodges that a previous owner has inflicted upon the poor car. Slabs of filler, rounded off/stripped nuts and bolts, chopped about wiring loom etc.
Playing "Hunt the relay/fuse". Why oh why could BL not have just done what every other manufacturer does and fit all fuses/relays in approximately the same location, rather than scattering them about the car?
I suppose that's what you get when you get Lucas to do the electrics....
Or as was mentioned before, fitting the gearbox seal anti-leak kit without instructions
I suppose that's what you get when you get Lucas to do the electrics....
Or as was mentioned before, fitting the gearbox seal anti-leak kit without instructions
WildfireS3 said:
Changing the clutch whilst the engine is still in the car.
All my cars have the bypass hoes blocked off.
The access to the clutch housing bolts can be improved by cutting a couple of 1" dia holes in the sub-frame side web to allow a 3/8" sq. drive socket to be put onto the bolts. Just make sure you cut the holes in the right place. On my 'red' car, one of the holes is now a slot!
For access to the front flex hoses, just cut away a bit from the bottom of the inner wing, making sure you er-flange the edges to put back the stiffness, or rivet (or weld) a doubler plate along the cut line.
This thread is great for sharing those little maintenance tips.
By the way, when you remove the rear sub-frame, and the bolts in the front mountings shear off, the stubs can often be removed by mig-welding a nut onto the stub close to the body. The heat from the welding and the shortened bolt length usually frees off the rust. then just run a 5/16" unf tap down the threaded holes and jobsagoodun. It worked a treat on my 'black' car recently, even though 3 of the 4 bolts sheared.
Not sure how many people know the trick for removing wheel bearings, but worth repeating. Admittedly, mini wheel bearings are generaly not too hard to remove, but some cars are utter barstewards, mainly those on McPherson strut based suspension as thebearings are so wide.
Remove the inner parts of the bearing, just leaving the outer race in place. Using a MIG or arc welder, run a nice thick bead of weld all the way around the inside of the bearing, as close to the center as possible. Leave to cool, and the contraction of the weld will mean that removal with a suitable drift and hammer is now a possibility!
Remove the inner parts of the bearing, just leaving the outer race in place. Using a MIG or arc welder, run a nice thick bead of weld all the way around the inside of the bearing, as close to the center as possible. Leave to cool, and the contraction of the weld will mean that removal with a suitable drift and hammer is now a possibility!
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