What BHP would you say I have?
Discussion
I don't want to take it on a rolling road due to engine stress but here is a list of the engine mods. Have an estimated guess please.
1275 Engine
Stage 5 head
276 cam
1:5:1 roller tip rockers
Twin 1"5 Su carbs
All the good electrical things
Maniflow 3 into 1 manifold
RC40 single silencer box
Other mods I have are things that wouldn't increase BHP like an ultralight flywheel.
I'd be happy to think I have over 80...not sure though.
1275 Engine
Stage 5 head
276 cam
1:5:1 roller tip rockers
Twin 1"5 Su carbs
All the good electrical things
Maniflow 3 into 1 manifold
RC40 single silencer box
Other mods I have are things that wouldn't increase BHP like an ultralight flywheel.
I'd be happy to think I have over 80...not sure though.
A well-built engine should not have any problems on the dyno. Top power is only applied for a short period.
Did Your relative set the mixture with a wide band oxigen sensor? There is no other way to do it properly. Much more harm can occure from a "good-by-feel" carburation than from a rolling road session.
Did Your relative set the mixture with a wide band oxigen sensor? There is no other way to do it properly. Much more harm can occure from a "good-by-feel" carburation than from a rolling road session.
Good build quality, good oil (!), enough cooling and a wide band oxigen sensor in an experts hand.
No real risk.
If still afraid, dont let them rev it above 6k.
We just measured our rally car yesterday. 8k and still in one piece. Though max power was at 7100.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedd...
No real risk.
If still afraid, dont let them rev it above 6k.
We just measured our rally car yesterday. 8k and still in one piece. Though max power was at 7100.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedd...
Book up a session with Peter Baldwin. Nice drive over to Cambridgshire and let the acknowledged expert set it up. Most set-up by ear is way too rich and you could be washing the bores and compromising the long term reliability of the engine.
I'm happy to let Peter run my se7en to 8.5K on his rollers.
As for engine spec - it should be good for 100+ on Peter's rollers. They read high - this is a given, but it does wonders for your pub bragging rights
I'm happy to let Peter run my se7en to 8.5K on his rollers.
As for engine spec - it should be good for 100+ on Peter's rollers. They read high - this is a given, but it does wonders for your pub bragging rights
FWDRacer said:
I'm happy to let Peter run my se7en to 8.5K on his rollers.
i used to have a bit of in car footage looking out the back window of my race car that showed my brother going from 4th to 3rd and cogging it into first by accident!, he just rammed it back into fourth, back into third and carried on - the engine made a 'interesting' noise and puffed a bit of smoke out.i ranted at him a bit, then promptly did the same thing the next race........
the rev counter went past 10.........
the car finished both races, the second time, it just bent one valve a little
Synthetics - they find every exit point from an A-series Engine/box (of which there are many )... and in order to protect the box you need oils with high zinc contect. Very little zinc in most modern synths as they contiminate catalysts and poison them when burnt. Synthetics base protection is based on long chain molecules structure, the A-series gearbox in sump quite literally cuts and chews them up. So many downsides of synthetics I can't imagine why anyone would use'em tbh.
Have I mentioned hot oil pressure?
Good quality minerals all the way... Millers/Valvoline etc.
Don't get Cooperman started on weasel p!ss oils...
Have I mentioned hot oil pressure?
Good quality minerals all the way... Millers/Valvoline etc.
Don't get Cooperman started on weasel p!ss oils...
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