Another diagnose the problem

[Skyedriver]

Newly built (4 years ago and stood since) 1330.
HIF44 carb, LCB, Aldon yellow, Minispares Evo cam, new Luminition leads, cap.
Take to MoT and it misfires. Then stops.
Rotor arm shorting out.
New Rotor Arm & condenser.
(Distributor drive comes out with distributor - never had that before)
Check timing, 4degrees BTC
Also shorting inside distributor between points spring and screw - sort that I think.
Points gap 15thou.
Take up road, still misfires
Starts and ticks over fine.
Plug colour a lovely yellow brown colour.
Remove plug leads one by one and engine drops by about the same amount.
(This sounds like a prob years ago when leads broke down)
Swop leads and cap.
Misfires from pick up until about 2-2500rpm (no rev counter). Sort of a kangaroo up the road until suddenly its away like a rocket..
(Ah, its lack of oil in the dashpot)
Unscrew top, there's nothing attached, the bit that fits inside the central tube has dropped off, thats the problem)
Fish that out and refix to cap. refill with oil.
Still got the problem....
So is it the coil, mucky petrol (I have refilled with about 3 galls of new)?
Have I cocked up the cam timing?
Not much else to try is there?

[GTRMikie]

I would try yet another condenser, I've had brand new condensers which have been duff!

[Xtriple129]

Cam timing, valve clearances too tight, needle wrong taper in the SU. That's all I can think of off hand.

[Skyedriver]

GTRMikie said:

I would try yet another condenser, I've had brand new condensers which have been duff!

Keep thinking "two condensers knacked..."

[Skyedriver]

Xtriple129 said:

Cam timing, valve clearances too tight, needle wrong taper in the SU. That's all I can think of off hand.

Could be valve clearances I suppose, hope I haven't timed the cam in wrong....
The HIF44 came (I hope) jetted for a 1300

If it were cam timing it would be out through the full rev range would it not?

Dont think that its just not on cam until 2500 as it used to run well before the blow up in 2008.

Again don't think its the coil as even though its old, previous coil failures heve been a case of working cold and dying completely when warmed up

[DanGT]

It sounds like a timeing problem (Like my 1380 with a 296 cam on a normal day). Are you doing the timeing statick or with a gun?

[Skyedriver]

DanGT said:

It sounds like a timeing problem (Like my 1380 with a 296 cam on a normal day). Are you doing the timeing statick or with a gun?

Static at 4 BTDC
My old timing gun strobe isn't bright enough to shine down between the rad & pulleys!
borrowing a coil tomorrow
Off to the garage now to put in new plugs and check compressions again

[Skyedriver]

Just to add:
Existing plugs were BP7ES and new.
Replaced these tonight with BPR6ES
Compressions range from 210 to 220 on a slightly dying battery with the throttle open
Will take it out tomorrow evening, weather permitting.
Old dear across the road calls me a teenager and a boyracer now as I come into our street at about 3000rpm in first and wheels spinning to stop it from spluttering....

ps (I'm 58!)

[Lund]

Just to add; I had used a screw which was the incorrect length to hold the points/electronic ignition in place on my mini, it was too long and pinned the advance in place, therefore the advance wasn't working.. and of course having cured the problem there was no difference made whatsoever!

[DanGT]

Have you got a spare dizzy to try? I would also check the cam position (I think this is posible with just a plg out and rocker cover off but not do it my self).

[Skyedriver]

It's the coil!
Borrowed one works fine.
TBH todays first diognosis was that the vacuum advance wasn't working hence the stuttering on load but testing that showed it all to be working.

Thanks to all who offered support