Mini rear suspension, advice appreciated.

Mini rear suspension, advice appreciated.

Author
Discussion

PainTrain

Original Poster:

422 posts

167 months

Thursday 22nd September 2011
quotequote all
Well, I have the rear subframe of my mini project, and managed to strip everything off it today. It has brought up some issues.

1)The inner part of the radius arm on the left hand side came our alarmingly easily. The radius arms failed the mot for poor dampening, I have only owned (slightly) more modern cars, so do these need a rebuild or do they just need filling with more grease?

2) The right hand rubber cone and trumpet thing basically fell off, the ball is corroded but the aliminium trumpet looks fine, however I am unsure as to the best way to attach the new ball to the new subframe, the haynes manual said something about pressuring the system, can anyone shed any light on this?

3) The rear subframe mounts are hard to get off, the ones near the radius arm mounting points. The nut keeps twisting without loosening because the circular panel is free to rotate, Does this make sense? scratchchin

4) Is there a good FAQ/ guide on how mini suspension works that anyone here knows of?

Any advice appreciated biggrin Car is a rover mini.

Cerberus90

1,553 posts

220 months

Friday 23rd September 2011
quotequote all
Afraid I can only help with number 1 I think.

Would that not be the dampers? That's what controls the dampening of the rear arm.

How stiff are the dampers? If there's not resistance to opening or closing them, they need replacing.

Biggelmo

43 posts

204 months

Sunday 25th September 2011
quotequote all
Answer to question 2...
The rear cone,trumpet & knuckle are held in place by the shock absorber/damper when the sub frame is in the car.
When the upper shock absorber/damper fixing are undone the radius arms drop down allowing the cone/trumpet/knuckle to be removed.
When you replace the knuckle always replace the plastic cup in the radius arm that it sits in,when you buy a new knuckle kit the plastic cup is included in it.
The "repressurising" you mention only applies to cars with HYDROLASTIC suspension that were produced from the mid 60s till the late 70s.What year is yours ?

PainTrain

Original Poster:

422 posts

167 months

Sunday 25th September 2011
quotequote all
Cerberus90 said:
Afraid I can only help with number 1 I think.

Would that not be the dampers? That's what controls the dampening of the rear arm.

How stiff are the dampers? If there's not resistance to opening or closing them, they need replacing.
I'm not sure to be honest, I have replaced the dampers so that might solve the problem.

Biggelmo said:
Answer to question 2...
The rear cone,trumpet & knuckle are held in place by the shock absorber/damper when the sub frame is in the car.
When the upper shock absorber/damper fixing are undone the radius arms drop down allowing the cone/trumpet/knuckle to be removed.
When you replace the knuckle always replace the plastic cup in the radius arm that it sits in,when you buy a new knuckle kit the plastic cup is included in it.
The "repressurising" you mention only applies to cars with HYDROLASTIC suspension that were produced from the mid 60s till the late 70s.What year is yours ?
The car is a 1991 mini, I am a bit concerned as I have completely stripped the sub frame and couldn't see a knuckle joint of any sort, just a ball joint (connecting the trumpet (not the cone) to the subframe) at the end closest to the front of the rear subframe. There was nothing holding the cone on to the subframe, it basically fell out, this is why I am confused as to all this talk of depressurising and knuckle joints

GTRMikie

872 posts

255 months

Sunday 25th September 2011
quotequote all
The knuckle joint fits into the narrow end of the suspension trumpet. The rubber spring (cone shaped?) attaches to the other end of the suspension trumpet. The ball end of the knuckle joint then fits into the nylon cup in the radius arm, and the rubber spring locates into the "cup" in the subframe. This is all explained and illustrated in the Haynes manual.


Edited by GTRMikie on Sunday 25th September 22:43


Edited by GTRMikie on Sunday 25th September 22:47

mad4amanda

2,410 posts

171 months

Sunday 25th September 2011
quotequote all
As others have dealt with the cone I will focus on the radius arm , they normally fail due to lack of grease in the bushes over the years causing the bushes to wear so excessive play is found the solution is to have the bushes reamed out and new ones fitted its not a diy job but you can buy exchange arms already reconditioned . if the play is slight it is possible using a high pressure grease gun to repack the joint enough to pass but eventually they need replacement.