Insurance Valuation. Classic mini. Footman and James
Discussion
So i need a value for insurance purposes for Footman and James.
Il be getting a local mini restorer to look at the car but want a rough idea in mind.
As far as i under stand, the insurance valuation if the cost of how much id need to get a mini up the the spec of this one.
Well thats how it was explained to me at Bingley by Mr Footman and James on the stand.
Work as followed.
Body:
Drivers and passenger sills.
Both door steps.
Rear Subframe.
Passenger Door Replaced.
During the subframe replacement, healboards were checked professionally and had no rust on them.
Door, both rear quarters, sills and both A panels painted professionally to match the rest of car.
Boot replaced for a non dented non rusted item.
During this time, the rear ache holes were welded.
Running Gear:
Also during this time, new radius arms were fitted, along a total replacement of the rear drums for new items included braided hoses.
Handbrake cable also reaplced during this time.
New rubber cones fitted all round, with hi lo adjustable suspension and gaz lowered adjustable dampers.
Refurbished calipers up front with new disks and pads.
Adjustable tie rod (i think there called that)
Pollybushes all round
Minilite alloys.
Engine:
998cc engine, purchased with 36,000 miles on. Now has 52,000. Used Daily.
RC40 Twin Box Exhaust
Mini spares inlet manifold
Maniflow exhaust manifold
Carb Needle
Headgasket replaced within the last 100 miles.
Engine steady bracket re welded.
Additional engine steady bracket on the radiator side.
Brand new ignition system including everything. Leads, dizzy etc etc fitted professionally with all timing and gaps checked and adjusted.
Interior:
Original doorcard, handles.
Cobra classics without headrests fitted, with matches rear seat cover.
Rubber seals for windows renewed.
mountney steering wheel
JVC headunit professionally fitted with two 6x9 speakers under the rear bench.
As above the car is virtually rust free, apart from some SLIGHT rust under the headlights. This is nowterminal rust as the wing was replaced before i got the car, it just wasnt giving proper treatment, and this is something im in the process of getting sorted.
Every bit of the running gear is always kept in 100% condition, with ball joints and bearings always being checked and replaced when needed as i use the car everyday.
Very well sorted car, handles perfect and has never let me down.
Any way heres some photos to help.
029 (2) by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
026 (3) by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
023 (3) by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
014 (2) by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
007 by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
005 by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
005 by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
012 by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
Il be getting a local mini restorer to look at the car but want a rough idea in mind.
As far as i under stand, the insurance valuation if the cost of how much id need to get a mini up the the spec of this one.
Well thats how it was explained to me at Bingley by Mr Footman and James on the stand.
Work as followed.
Body:
Drivers and passenger sills.
Both door steps.
Rear Subframe.
Passenger Door Replaced.
During the subframe replacement, healboards were checked professionally and had no rust on them.
Door, both rear quarters, sills and both A panels painted professionally to match the rest of car.
Boot replaced for a non dented non rusted item.
During this time, the rear ache holes were welded.
Running Gear:
Also during this time, new radius arms were fitted, along a total replacement of the rear drums for new items included braided hoses.
Handbrake cable also reaplced during this time.
New rubber cones fitted all round, with hi lo adjustable suspension and gaz lowered adjustable dampers.
Refurbished calipers up front with new disks and pads.
Adjustable tie rod (i think there called that)
Pollybushes all round
Minilite alloys.
Engine:
998cc engine, purchased with 36,000 miles on. Now has 52,000. Used Daily.
RC40 Twin Box Exhaust
Mini spares inlet manifold
Maniflow exhaust manifold
Carb Needle
Headgasket replaced within the last 100 miles.
Engine steady bracket re welded.
Additional engine steady bracket on the radiator side.
Brand new ignition system including everything. Leads, dizzy etc etc fitted professionally with all timing and gaps checked and adjusted.
Interior:
Original doorcard, handles.
Cobra classics without headrests fitted, with matches rear seat cover.
Rubber seals for windows renewed.
mountney steering wheel
JVC headunit professionally fitted with two 6x9 speakers under the rear bench.
As above the car is virtually rust free, apart from some SLIGHT rust under the headlights. This is nowterminal rust as the wing was replaced before i got the car, it just wasnt giving proper treatment, and this is something im in the process of getting sorted.
Every bit of the running gear is always kept in 100% condition, with ball joints and bearings always being checked and replaced when needed as i use the car everyday.
Very well sorted car, handles perfect and has never let me down.
Any way heres some photos to help.
029 (2) by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
026 (3) by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
023 (3) by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
014 (2) by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
007 by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
005 by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
005 by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
012 by alex.robinson18, on Flickr
Have a look at cars 4 sale in the mini mags and see what a car like yours would cost. Once you have done that add the cost of any parts that your car has and your example dose not.
If you start with a banger and add resteration costs you will end up with a very high price and will not get a pay out on or pay a very high price for your insurance
If you start with a banger and add resteration costs you will end up with a very high price and will not get a pay out on or pay a very high price for your insurance
Also, is that a Pedobear sticker? 
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