Gremlins already.......
Discussion
Well, I've owned my Griff now for 3 days - and yes problems already.... the boot won't lock, the glove box (supposed to have been fixed), won't close and ALL my dials register 0 (speedo, volts, oil, temp etc).
I suppose I should at least be thankful that it starts...
Anyone got any hints and tips on the speedo, volts etc?
I suppose I should at least be thankful that it starts...
Anyone got any hints and tips on the speedo, volts etc?
Sorry to hear of ur problems.
The problem with the dials could be to a bad earth as all seem to be affected.
They are usually earthed on the transmission tunnel,which involves taking the handbrake off and then sliding the console out after unbolting behind the seats.
There should be 2 earthing bolts either side of the tunnel just about where the door handles are situated(towards the rear of them).
Hope this helps
Simon
The problem with the dials could be to a bad earth as all seem to be affected.
They are usually earthed on the transmission tunnel,which involves taking the handbrake off and then sliding the console out after unbolting behind the seats.
There should be 2 earthing bolts either side of the tunnel just about where the door handles are situated(towards the rear of them).
Hope this helps
Simon
The glove box problem is a Griff classic. The female clip mounted on the glove box lip of the dash seems to have been constructed from an egg box and needs a lot of TLC to remain serviceable. Could be the spring has dropped out the mechanism but what is more likely is that the clip has become loose in its housing. If this is the case a bit of isopon helps. You can get a spare clip from most service agents. Dave Batty at the garage has a good mod for this which is worth considering.
I've never had any problems with my boot, but know someone else who's boot won't close. I found that there was just a way of closing it and once you get it - no problems. Try a few different techniques. If no luck with that, the lock clips are quite easy to adjust - just go in there with an adjustable and you'll see what I mean.
I don't have my handbook to hand but in there is a fuse map. It might be worth checking if there's a dash fuse for the guages - but like I said, I'm not even sure if there is a fuse for this so look in the book.
Good luck!
AF
I've never had any problems with my boot, but know someone else who's boot won't close. I found that there was just a way of closing it and once you get it - no problems. Try a few different techniques. If no luck with that, the lock clips are quite easy to adjust - just go in there with an adjustable and you'll see what I mean.
I don't have my handbook to hand but in there is a fuse map. It might be worth checking if there's a dash fuse for the guages - but like I said, I'm not even sure if there is a fuse for this so look in the book.
Good luck!
AF
sipow you mention removing the console - have you ever done this if so how easy is it to remove the handbrake, I had an idea to release the tension on the back brakes and then pull the handbrake up to its full motion before removing the console (I did this with my M rather succesfully)
Thanks
Thanks
quote:
sipow you mention removing the console - have you ever done this if so how easy is it to remove the handbrake, I had an idea to release the tension on the back brakes and then pull the handbrake up to its full motion before removing the console (I did this with my M rather succesfully)
Exactly the same.
Steve
"......I had an idea to release the tension on the back brakes and then pull the handbrake up to its full motion before removing the console....."
How do you release the tension? I have been struggling under the car to find the adjustment nut for the handbrake but no joy - is releasing the tension on the back brakes quicker/easier or is this the same thing?
How do you release the tension? I have been struggling under the car to find the adjustment nut for the handbrake but no joy - is releasing the tension on the back brakes quicker/easier or is this the same thing?
I was planing on removing the springs that retain the tension at each rear corner - I presume that when the spring is removed and the handbrake released that the cables will be able to be unhooked from the arms, thereby allowing the handbrake to move to its full stretch.
hope this make sense.
hope this make sense.
Thanks people......
Problems have been resoloved - gauges were thanks to a blown fuse, and the boot appears to be a stuck solenoid, (quite common I'm told),
Truely feel like a fully paid up TVR owner now, and besides - turn the key, hear the V8 - who cares about a blown fuse a boot that won't lock........
Problems have been resoloved - gauges were thanks to a blown fuse, and the boot appears to be a stuck solenoid, (quite common I'm told),
Truely feel like a fully paid up TVR owner now, and besides - turn the key, hear the V8 - who cares about a blown fuse a boot that won't lock........
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