Water where it shouldn't be? + elec connectors

[Gizze]

I took the swirl tank off the engine (4.3) a couple of days ago to give it a polish (yes I know: poser!), and found water (coolant) running from one of the bolt holes, which bolts it to the engine. I've no experience of working on this engine before. Q: Is this normal or is something seriously wrong? Lots of you seem very knowledgeable, if you could help me out I'd appreciate it.
Also, if my engine is shot, I thought I'd fit a new stereo. (Follow the logic here: I'll need something to listen to while I sit in the car on the drive!) Does anybody know where I can get some of the connectors used in the wiring loom behind the dash? I want to fit a new stereo but can't find a supplier for the connector that supplies the stereo. I think they're made by AMP but RS catalogue etc doesn't list them.

[MrMidlife]

Had the same issue connecting a new radio a while back. The stereo will come with a lead which plugs into it and terminates with an ISO connector which plugs straight into the harness on 'modern' cars! Trouble is my '95 Griff has a manufacturer specific connector on the harness and I couldn't initially obtain lead go between it and the ISO connector. I actually used the original plug but cut and remade the wires to mate with the lead to the stereo - I can give you the details if you need them (mail me). Otherwise your local Halfords may be able to fix you up with the right harness to ISO lead - I found out later that they have it listed for our old friend 'Range Rover' ( or was it 'Land Rover'?)

[JFF]

Just to put you mind at rest I had exactly the same thing happen when I removed the header tank from my 1992 4.0lt Griffith. I had to take the front timing cover of the engine to get a snapped oil pump cover bolt spark eroded out (but thats another story). This is when I discovered the reason for the water leaking out around the header tank mounting bolts. The bolts pass through the timing cover and screw into the front of the block, but the tapped holes have broken through into the waterway. This was obviously as the block was originally machined because the long bolts had silicone sealant along there length to seal them. I cleaned out all the old sealant and then replaced the bolts with stainless steel ones so that they can't rust into the block, happering any future removals. The bolts where 5/16" UNC thread about 6" long these are not very easy to get hold of.
Your best bet would be to drain down the block until the water stops coming out of the bolt holes then clean the holes and bolts up and reassemble it all with new silicon sealant. I worked for me.
And yes I did get my header tank polished up as well!

Justin

[Gizze]

Thanks one and all, at least now I know I've got a summer of motoring ahead without major expenditure and sounds like my first trip will be down to Halfords this weekend to source the Land (Range) Rover connector.