Griff buying hints
Discussion
Hello all
I'm considering trading up to a Griff can anyone tell me what 'quirks' to look for other than buying the latest car I can afford. Also is the car similar to the wedge where I can scout round for consumable parts ie. Ford for wheel bearings / steering, Rover for g.box etc as this makes the things considerable cheaper to run.
Ta
Matt
You can indeed 'shop around' for alternative parts. It's only really the TVR engined models (Cerbera, Tuscan) that use mainly TVR fabricated stuff that makes it difficult. I had a 390SE before the Griff 500 (no.1 '93L Ocean Haze, Fern full hide, aqua carpets, 32,750miles, FTVRSH, excellent condition inside and out - 16,495ono - it's for sale btw 
and the Wedge was actually more expensive to run! There are a lot of dogs out there, especially with the older cars, that said there are some excellent examples too. Usual stuff applies, check for decent history, crash damage and take someone who knows their way around a car. Water leaks are a common problem so try and go for a car that has been cosseted in a garage as far as possible. Only other things I know about are the rear diff bush (not cheap to replace as it's an axle out job) and the started motors can stick (near to exhausts).
If you're interested in the car, drop me a line on cj@pciuk.com
Car No. 13
and the Wedge was actually more expensive to run! There are a lot of dogs out there, especially with the older cars, that said there are some excellent examples too. Usual stuff applies, check for decent history, crash damage and take someone who knows their way around a car. Water leaks are a common problem so try and go for a car that has been cosseted in a garage as far as possible. Only other things I know about are the rear diff bush (not cheap to replace as it's an axle out job) and the started motors can stick (near to exhausts).
If you're interested in the car, drop me a line on cj@pciuk.com
Car No. 13Depends on your budget really, and how long you intend to keep it.
I've had both a 4.3 and a 500.
In my opinion generally,
Best to have FSH TVR history, lowish mileage (no more, than say 6,000 a year average, should be lots)
I'd choose a late 4.3 over a 4.0, just for that little bit more power and resaleability.
I don't think any of these cars have power steering, but they do have the advantage of no cats (expensive if they go wrong, maybe a bit more 'classic' than a 500. Around £18 - £20k should get the best of 4.3's.
Or a later model griff 500, with power steering. If you drive & park in town it is very desireable to have this. Around 98/R or S reg prices are reasonable £24 - 28 ish, as they don't command such a premuium as ex demo cars, or T,V,W,X regs, but they are newer than P reg and earlier cars and should be 1 owner at this(if not why has it changed hands,etc).
At this stage TVR had been building them for years, and they new how to put them together well.
If Colour doesn't bother you, there are some dodgy colours around, white, yellow,which don't resale as easily as say a metallic blue, and are a bit cheaper.
Similar spec/age cars can be very different, so always compare driving a couple.
A little knowledge about how the owner used it can be helpful. I drive my griff at least twice a week all year round, (still a low mileage though) and have had very few problems. Compared to a car a similar mileage, which sits in the garage for months at a time waiting for summer. All makes of car don't like this.
Enjoy
I'm not sure that going for the latest one you can afford is such a great idea.
I fairly recently bought my Griff 500, I looked at loads and the condition of the cars seemed to have no relation to the age. I also looked at a couple of higher mileage cars as they are going for very tempting prices and in many respects they were better than some of the very low mileage cars. I think there is a lot to be said about using these cars as often as possible.
In my opinion you have to look at each car individually worry less about age and mileage and look for the colour and trim you want (not necessarily Dark Blue like everyone else) then look in detail at the car and its history.
One other thing if sound is important, go for a 4.3. I test drove a 4.3 and a 500 back to back and you would be amazed at the difference.
At the end of the day you have to be happy with the car so its all down to personal preference.
Best of luck with the hunt
Cheers Dan
) then look in detail at the car and its history.
One other thing if sound is important, go for a 4.3. I test drove a 4.3 and a 500 back to back and you would be amazed at the difference.
At the end of the day you have to be happy with the car so its all down to personal preference.
Best of luck with the hunt
Cheers Dan 
To be honest I had just driven 150 miles in a VW Golf (albeit a VR6) so they both seemed bloody quick. The 500 is definitely quieter and more civilised and I think is easier to live with if you use it day to day. The 4.3 is not quite so smooth but sounds bloody great.
I am sure some people will shout me down but unless you are a serious track driver, the performance difference in the cars is almost imperceptable. (maybe cos the 4.3 sounds fast)
Dan
quote:IMHO, I'd say no less than 5000 miles a year and no more than 10,000 unless really cheap. Those cars with very low miles are not getting used, these cars need to be driven. One reason for low miles could be unreliability problems (but I accept that many are second or third cars). IF it's done plenty of miles then it will probably have had any problems sorted; lower purchase price and lower maintenance, maybe. Edited by macca on Tuesday 27th February 13:24
Best to have FSH TVR history, lowish mileage (no more, than say 6,000 a year average, should be lots)
Re power steering. This can be retrofitted for £1700 to £2000 depending on the dealer, maybe less at a specialist.
I had it done to my car as part of the purchase deal. There is definately less feel thru' the steering, but I think the tradeoff for easy(er) parking is worth it (my driveway is a b*****d) - and anyway her indooors wouldn't be able to move the wheel on those one way journeys back from the boozer 
JamesK Griffiths are Gorgeous.
So are supermodels.
However just as each individual supermodel has her own idiosyncrasies so does each individual Griffith (hand-built by different hands). There can be so much variety between them.
To continue the analogy further some supermodels are so off the wall as to be completely unlivable with, the same is true of Griffiths. It is therefore essential that you get to know your future mistress/girlfriend/wife/car (rearrange in your own order of priority) intimately before you commit to a long-term relationship.
Steps to take:
1) Buy Steve Heath's "Griffith and Chimaera" book, which is an invaluable source of information on the cars (TVR factory service dept. have and use his book).
2) Drive lots at dealers. This will give you an idea of the range of cars available and the different quality levels that came out of factory (even on the same day). This is very important especially with the handling characteristics of the individual car as this is what will determine the drivability of the vehicle.
3) shortlist your preferred vehicles and and ask the dealer (if buying the the trade) for the contact details of the previous owner so that you can obtained a slightly less biased view of the car in question. Alternatively, especially if buying privately, contact the TVR factory to see if they have a history of the particular vehicle.
4) take the plunge.
5) save up all your spare cash for the new love of your life as it may become an obsession.
TVRs in general are fairly simply engineered and, using the logic that if they are built by hand then they can be dismantled by hand, are usually fairly straightforward to repair without using too many specialist tools. If you have a problem with your particular vehicle it can normally be remedied/improved by one or other of the better dealers or TVR specialists. Griffiths rarely have serious or terminal problems, the more usual failures being niggley little things that a Porsche owner would not expect from his car. There is enormous scope for improving many of the characteristics and features of the Griffith to suit your own individual taste and driving requirements.
They are fabulous cars and if you have any blood in your veins you will become passionate about them. I did and it led to the formation of Zertec (TVR specialists).
Go on, buy one.
Clive Reed
Zertec Limited
info@zertec.co.uk
www.zertec.co.uk
In addition.
Try the Wetter the Better Course, Don Palmer driving developments, (adds in the back of evo, car mags, etc, and oily pages). at mira wet handling circuits, simulated ice, snow, degeraded wet tarmac. hang the back of your griff, out for 2 -3 circuits of a continuos curver (80m diameter roundabout) if you CAN. V hard in a griff.
This gave me a lot more confidence in the damp, ie, if you do lose the back end, accidentally, after this course you should have half a chance of catching it and not killing yourself.
B
quote:Clive you're no wrong. I bought my Griffith 4.3BV last August and I am definitley obsessed. So far, not including petrol and insurance I've spent about £4000 on it, and the insurance company is currently spending about £10,000 on it. Check the link to my car in my member profile if you want to see why. With the car just about due for another service when it comes back from the coach-builders it might have had as much as it cost spent on it inside one year!!
5) save up all your spare cash for the new love of your life as it may become an obsession.
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