sensible Suggestions please
Discussion
Hi folks.
Hoping to join you lot soon and am looking for suitable (not to be laughed off the planet) questions to ask when looking at someones pride and joy.
what questions did you ask when buying your Griff? that gave you the most information to base your purchase on.
I am in serious danger of drooling too much and the inability to say no to the first car I come across.
Help!
Hoping to join you lot soon and am looking for suitable (not to be laughed off the planet) questions to ask when looking at someones pride and joy.
what questions did you ask when buying your Griff? that gave you the most information to base your purchase on.
I am in serious danger of drooling too much and the inability to say no to the first car I come across.
Help!
A vendor is obliged to (correctly) answer any question you ask . This doesn't mean you won't be lied to, but you will be doing all you can. So ask:
Is there anything wrong with it?
What will need doing at the next service?
Has the xxxx been done? (ie clutch/camshaft etc)
Has the car ever been in an accident?
Note the omission of 'that you are aware of' or 'in your opinion' (which provide a less blatant opportunity to lie) and don't be fobbed off by dealers just saying 'I don't know'. They blooming well should know!
I can email you a check list if you were after specific points.
Is there anything wrong with it?
What will need doing at the next service?
Has the xxxx been done? (ie clutch/camshaft etc)
Has the car ever been in an accident?
Note the omission of 'that you are aware of' or 'in your opinion' (which provide a less blatant opportunity to lie) and don't be fobbed off by dealers just saying 'I don't know'. They blooming well should know!
I can email you a check list if you were after specific points.
griffter said:Do it on list it may be of interest to others. Anyway, what year are you considering? How much do you want to spend? Are you thinking 4.0, 4.3 or 500? Makes a difference to things like pre or post serpentive engine and getting the Borg Warner T5 gearbox which is considered better. Look for slack in the steering, could mean worn UJ's in the steereing column. Obviously after giving it all a once over and a run let it stand and idle up to full temp and see if the fan/fans come on, probabaly the only realistic test you can do for overheating problems. Get all the carpets up and smell them looking for damp or signs of leaks, don't buy if it smells musty! Does the boot smell of petrol, mine doesn't but some owners complain about fuel smells.
I can email you a check list if you were after specific points.
Oh and... BUY Steve Heaths book on the Chimaera and Griffith, there is loads in there about buying a TVR it's not just about maintenance.
Cheers Rich...
p.s. why do you call yourself Ding?
Also worth going to Steve Heaths web site www.tvrbooks.co.uk/. There is a whole section under the FAQs cunningly entitled "Guide to buying a Griffith".
Should have everything you need to ask and a bit more. I found it very useful when I bought my chimaera.
Should have everything you need to ask and a bit more. I found it very useful when I bought my chimaera.
Thanks for this.
Answers: Ding because years ago I parked next to my brother (the infamous PlanetDave) opened the door, the wind did the rest, honest. He has never let me forget it!
As to which variety I have deceided to go for a 5 as I am an idiot. (no excuses).
Looking at the earliest (oldest) I can get with PAS. around '95.
As to price can only comment on lowest price I can get away with. (Have been researching this all summer so think I have an idea as to what they are going for).
I have Steve Heaths book and have been reading it like a maniac, as friend keeps throwing questions at me.
A list would be good as I am sure that other people would be interested.
Keep going as I am keen to collate as much info as possible.
Thanks to everyone, you do realise though that once purchased I will be on here picking your brains for everything I can think of.
Answers: Ding because years ago I parked next to my brother (the infamous PlanetDave) opened the door, the wind did the rest, honest. He has never let me forget it!
As to which variety I have deceided to go for a 5 as I am an idiot. (no excuses).
Looking at the earliest (oldest) I can get with PAS. around '95.
As to price can only comment on lowest price I can get away with. (Have been researching this all summer so think I have an idea as to what they are going for).
I have Steve Heaths book and have been reading it like a maniac, as friend keeps throwing questions at me.
A list would be good as I am sure that other people would be interested.
Keep going as I am keen to collate as much info as possible.
Thanks to everyone, you do realise though that once purchased I will be on here picking your brains for everything I can think of.
Buy the 'The Griffith and Chimaera' by Steve Heath. You'll see it on PH referred to as 'the bible' - there’s a chapter on buying Griffs in there.
If you want a 1994 one, try and get a later model with the T5 gear box. Of course, you could go for a 4.0 or 4.3 of course, they are virtually just as fast but louder.
Like I said though, post on PH for some feedback about Rob Ingleby. If you’re not mechanically minded, this is definitely the route to go – it’ll cost £500 fee but the car you end up with will be good nick with good service history and he’ll negotiate a good price for you.
If you want anymore info, feel free to email. I love talking Griffs almost as much as I like driving one.
If you want a 1994 one, try and get a later model with the T5 gear box. Of course, you could go for a 4.0 or 4.3 of course, they are virtually just as fast but louder.
Like I said though, post on PH for some feedback about Rob Ingleby. If you’re not mechanically minded, this is definitely the route to go – it’ll cost £500 fee but the car you end up with will be good nick with good service history and he’ll negotiate a good price for you.
If you want anymore info, feel free to email. I love talking Griffs almost as much as I like driving one.
early 500's can be found with Pas / a/c / and full leather. also pre-serps can be had with T5 boxes.
mine has all of the above on a '94 plate.
took 6 months to find mine (nationally) the it turned up 30 miles from my house.
most important thing on a 94+ car is the CHASSIS!!!
these early cars have "suspect" powder coating which is WELL into its life so check the outriggers wishbones etc - well.
Peeling coating is normal which is ok so long as there's no rust.
upgrades are good but don't add to the price much. items like nitrons, 4-pots are good, particularly if you intend to "track and field". suspension will be getting well tired by now eiter way.
go for a car with "reasonable" mileage, means its been used and loved. low mileage means abandoned and forgotton or treasured and doted on. you decide which!
a good local dealer/specialist will check out your prospect for you, for an hours labour, or take someone with you who has one!!
good luck...you won't regret it! if you buy a good un!
cheers
mine has all of the above on a '94 plate.
took 6 months to find mine (nationally) the it turned up 30 miles from my house.
most important thing on a 94+ car is the CHASSIS!!!
these early cars have "suspect" powder coating which is WELL into its life so check the outriggers wishbones etc - well.
Peeling coating is normal which is ok so long as there's no rust.
upgrades are good but don't add to the price much. items like nitrons, 4-pots are good, particularly if you intend to "track and field". suspension will be getting well tired by now eiter way.
go for a car with "reasonable" mileage, means its been used and loved. low mileage means abandoned and forgotton or treasured and doted on. you decide which!
a good local dealer/specialist will check out your prospect for you, for an hours labour, or take someone with you who has one!!
good luck...you won't regret it! if you buy a good un!
cheers
OK, here's what I used (blatantly plagarised from around the world so apologies if anybody lays claim to a particular part):
Bodywork
Check the driving lights at the bottom for cracks
Check how the doors hang - have they scraped against the inside due to being badly hung
Check how the hood is attached to the car - is the glue coming away
Condition of roof/seals
Chassis
Top ball joints (last 12k miles at best) – rock wheel with car’s weight on to check wear
Check dampers at each corner by bouncing
Dampers often leak and the valves knock
Front upper wishbones - corrosion
Front outriggers, behind front wheels – chips, corrosion
Chassis members under sills - corrosion
Suspension bushes collapse and suspension arms rub against chassis lugs
Front and rear chassis – accident damage/jacking damage
Ensure that the front bar of the chassis is straight
Check steering rack for leaks
Check brakes for leaks
Check for even tyre wear
Early cars have GKN diffs, often leak and big hassle getting seals and fitting them
Engine
Remove inspection hatch in inner wing (driver’s side) to check no clutch fluid leak
Exhaust – no smoke
Piston slap common from cold start
Smooth idle/nice tickover – 1000rpm
No hunting
Restarts when hot
Oil pressure – 25-30 psi
Coolant 70-80 while driving, fans cut in at 92
Check the cooling fans work - do both fans kick in at 90
Check the ventilation fan works (it's at the front of the car behind the left headlight) - they are pretty exposed and can fail
Coolant leaks in corners of radiators, hoses and water pump
Check exhaust manifolds and gaskets for leaks
Engines can be noisy
Listen for any valve clatter when warm - in particular when travelling at a constant speed in 2nd/3rd at 3K revs
Interior/Electrics
Windscreen de-lamination – milkiness around edge of glass
Check for water/rust/mould under carpets, on seat mechanisms. Check seatbelt operation
Look at the seats and if you can see any grain, it's vinyl rather than leather – leather should be smooth
Early 500 – black heating controls (in front of gearknob), reversed speedo & rev counter
Later 500 – aluminium heating controls, normal speedo (with mechanical tripometer) & rev counter, silver rinmmed 94>
Rover gearbox – reverser upper left, T5 gearbox – reverse lower right
Check all electrics work especially
• instrumentation
• the complicated electronic heater
• heated mirrors
• heated seats if fitted.
• electric windows (don't let them clunk at the bottom because it will eventually drop out the guides and refuse to go up again)
• lights
Test Drive
If steering binds when turned, UJ’s worn
Car should not drift to one side with no hands on wheel (unless cambered road)
No judder when brakes applied
Smooth acceleration
Misc
Options: PAS, A/C, leather, heated seats
Bodywork
Check the driving lights at the bottom for cracks
Check how the doors hang - have they scraped against the inside due to being badly hung
Check how the hood is attached to the car - is the glue coming away
Condition of roof/seals
Chassis
Top ball joints (last 12k miles at best) – rock wheel with car’s weight on to check wear
Check dampers at each corner by bouncing
Dampers often leak and the valves knock
Front upper wishbones - corrosion
Front outriggers, behind front wheels – chips, corrosion
Chassis members under sills - corrosion
Suspension bushes collapse and suspension arms rub against chassis lugs
Front and rear chassis – accident damage/jacking damage
Ensure that the front bar of the chassis is straight
Check steering rack for leaks
Check brakes for leaks
Check for even tyre wear
Early cars have GKN diffs, often leak and big hassle getting seals and fitting them
Engine
Remove inspection hatch in inner wing (driver’s side) to check no clutch fluid leak
Exhaust – no smoke
Piston slap common from cold start
Smooth idle/nice tickover – 1000rpm
No hunting
Restarts when hot
Oil pressure – 25-30 psi
Coolant 70-80 while driving, fans cut in at 92
Check the cooling fans work - do both fans kick in at 90
Check the ventilation fan works (it's at the front of the car behind the left headlight) - they are pretty exposed and can fail
Coolant leaks in corners of radiators, hoses and water pump
Check exhaust manifolds and gaskets for leaks
Engines can be noisy
Listen for any valve clatter when warm - in particular when travelling at a constant speed in 2nd/3rd at 3K revs
Interior/Electrics
Windscreen de-lamination – milkiness around edge of glass
Check for water/rust/mould under carpets, on seat mechanisms. Check seatbelt operation
Look at the seats and if you can see any grain, it's vinyl rather than leather – leather should be smooth
Early 500 – black heating controls (in front of gearknob), reversed speedo & rev counter
Later 500 – aluminium heating controls, normal speedo (with mechanical tripometer) & rev counter, silver rinmmed 94>
Rover gearbox – reverser upper left, T5 gearbox – reverse lower right
Check all electrics work especially
• instrumentation
• the complicated electronic heater
• heated mirrors
• heated seats if fitted.
• electric windows (don't let them clunk at the bottom because it will eventually drop out the guides and refuse to go up again)
• lights
Test Drive
If steering binds when turned, UJ’s worn
Car should not drift to one side with no hands on wheel (unless cambered road)
No judder when brakes applied
Smooth acceleration
Misc
Options: PAS, A/C, leather, heated seats
Gazboy said:
I'm also thinking of a griff, with a 15k budget, is the 500 much better/quicker than a 4.3, how much is a '94
It's mine!
there are cars about under 15k but few and far between. (sellers please pay no attention to this) I spoke to a dealer friend and he told me I would not get a Griff 5 under 15k in decent nick.
the list is great.
I intend to prove him wrong.
Rich, 20 mpg is unbelievable, let alone 22-23 mpg.
I think my (tuned) 500 does around 6-7 km's to the liter which is about 13-15 mpg! (maybe the new chip will help)
About the checklist: a noisy 500 engine? I think not, well not to TVR standards anyway. I think a 500 should run very smooth, otherwise keep away from it.
I think my (tuned) 500 does around 6-7 km's to the liter which is about 13-15 mpg! (maybe the new chip will help)
About the checklist: a noisy 500 engine? I think not, well not to TVR standards anyway. I think a 500 should run very smooth, otherwise keep away from it.
I’ve recently bought a 1994 500 with 46K miles for £14.5K.
However the price reflects the fact that it will take some work over the winter to get it to where I’d like it to be. Nothing drastic just the usual, chassis protection, wishbones and brakes. This work is more preventative than necessary at the moment but they are the sort of cars that need constant preventative maintenance to keep them at their best, IMHO.
All the stuff mention previously is important stuff so make sure it’s right or make an allowance in the price to put it right. If you don’t then you may be in for some expensive shocks.
They are absolutely wonderful cars when they are running right and I can’t think of anything else to beat a Griff, Good luck and happy hunting.
However the price reflects the fact that it will take some work over the winter to get it to where I’d like it to be. Nothing drastic just the usual, chassis protection, wishbones and brakes. This work is more preventative than necessary at the moment but they are the sort of cars that need constant preventative maintenance to keep them at their best, IMHO.
All the stuff mention previously is important stuff so make sure it’s right or make an allowance in the price to put it right. If you don’t then you may be in for some expensive shocks.
They are absolutely wonderful cars when they are running right and I can’t think of anything else to beat a Griff, Good luck and happy hunting.
gerjo said:Indeed I was pretty impressed - I filled it before leaving UK on a visit to Brugge and re-filled it a couple of times kept receipts and did the sums, 22mpg overall including a while at (urr'hum) 140 - I'll allow you to guess if that was kph or mph Rich...
Rich, 20 mpg is unbelievable, let alone 22-23 mpg.
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